GE8 Lowered Thread - Post your pics!!!
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 49
From: alameda, ca
hello, can you take a sideview picture of it if you have time? so i can see the fender. thank you..
I'll contribute, dropped on J's/Crux. Camber of -2.4 and a slight toe out, 12k front (8 hardness, out of 30) and 8k rear (7 hardness), 45mm drop can go lower still, but completely unnecessary.
About the hardness, I don't think very many people would even want to daily drive this thing, with the solid engine mounts and even just 12k/8k spring and the hardness set to 8/7 it is quite stiff. With the rear shock having a poly insert, it creaks. Not at all a problem for me as I like "RACE CAR". When on circuit I'll increase the stiffness to about 15 front and 20 rear, will make for quite the ride.
About the hardness, I don't think very many people would even want to daily drive this thing, with the solid engine mounts and even just 12k/8k spring and the hardness set to 8/7 it is quite stiff. With the rear shock having a poly insert, it creaks. Not at all a problem for me as I like "RACE CAR". When on circuit I'll increase the stiffness to about 15 front and 20 rear, will make for quite the ride.
alrite cool thanks for ur post i was deciding on a 1.5" drop and looks good.
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 49
From: alameda, ca
so what tires are you using now sir?
Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 92
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Yes, I was pretty surprised. If I were to do it again I would probably leave the full stock bump stops the way they are and not trimmed down like the spring instructions suggest - this would likely keep it from rubbing though Im not 100% sure.
Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 99
From: TO
so jealous of your ride
I'll contribute, dropped on J's/Crux. Camber of -2.4 and a slight toe out, 12k front (8 hardness, out of 30) and 8k rear (7 hardness), 45mm drop can go lower still, but completely unnecessary.
About the hardness, I don't think very many people would even want to daily drive this thing, with the solid engine mounts and even just 12k/8k spring and the hardness set to 8/7 it is quite stiff. With the rear shock having a poly insert, it creaks. Not at all a problem for me as I like "RACE CAR". When on circuit I'll increase the stiffness to about 15 front and 20 rear, will make for quite the ride.
About the hardness, I don't think very many people would even want to daily drive this thing, with the solid engine mounts and even just 12k/8k spring and the hardness set to 8/7 it is quite stiff. With the rear shock having a poly insert, it creaks. Not at all a problem for me as I like "RACE CAR". When on circuit I'll increase the stiffness to about 15 front and 20 rear, will make for quite the ride.
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 49
From: alameda, ca
hello sir, sorry noob/newbie here. what do u mean by full stock bump stops if you dont mind me asking? thanks
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,295
From: Wandering around.
some springs instruct you to cut the bump stops. but there are a few springs that also tell you that you don't have to (Swifts). "full stock bump stop" just means leaving it alone.
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 49
From: alameda, ca
Thanks for explaining... 
in the shocks/struts are pieces of rubber, called bump stops. the idea is they prevent the shock from fully compressing to the point where it'll damage itself (end of compression or blow a gasket).
some springs instruct you to cut the bump stops. but there are a few springs that also tell you that you don't have to (Swifts). "full stock bump stop" just means leaving it alone.
some springs instruct you to cut the bump stops. but there are a few springs that also tell you that you don't have to (Swifts). "full stock bump stop" just means leaving it alone.