At present, WeatherTechs in the front are keeping it from "flapping". I'll document my repair using contact cement, as suggested in this thread, with some pix. Currently waiting for my Civic repair before proceeding.

 

I didn't mean to ignore your message DrewE, and I did keep an eye out to avoid any water-based contact cement; I will be posting results when finished the repair. Thanks for your tip!

 

At around 5k miles i had the exact same thing happen. I took it to the dealership and they "fixed" it...but in order to "fix" it they had to replace the entirety of the carpeting on the floor. So what should have been a 20 minute job with a new gasket and rubber piece ended up taking them about 6 hours. At least it was all covered by the warranty. Since then I have noticed that the carpet does not seem as well attached to the floor itself, but it is minor.

 

gorilla glue

 

You can see in my previous posts how I tried to effect a detached molding repair with 30 lb double-sided adhesive tape. It looked bad and peeled off cleanly after 1 hour, so at least I could easily start again fresh. Here is the original problem:



Prior to my second attack, I installed WeatherTechs to more or less tack the flapping moulding back from underfoot:



Of several appreciated suggestions, I decided to go with contact cement (DAP Weldwood), masking the carpet area with adhesive tape so I could completely cover the underside of the molding, and the carpet beneath with contact cement.



Before applying the contact cement, I made a padded, dimpled push-block system with Elmers wood glue, junk wood and sponge and my countersink, and two small adjustable curtain rods.




I let the contact glue dry, as instructed, for 20 minutes and then carefully sandwiched everthing together by bracing the pre-adjusted curtain rod ends between the push-block and the fire wall, allowing it to sit for 24 hours.



Basically things worked out and the molding has remained attached. As you can see from the following views, the push-block did not provide quite the contoured, evenly distributed pressure I was shooting for and the very edges of the molding rolled back a bit. I got a non-volatile Crayola washable marker set and used the gray pen to tone down the exposed contact cement "fibers" stretched and exposed along the top margin. If further peeling occurs, I will use the same approach involving just the separated edges, and metal bars to more aggressively pin down those pesky, truant edges of the molding. I consider the WeatherTechs as part of the solution since the high lip does much to protect the molding from a driver's heels and other mishaps.




I am including a compilation of advice from TorontoBoy (thanks again, my friend ), in case you are peeling, and would like to consider this approach for a fix. I personally would rather go DIY on something like this vs. letting a dealership cook up whatever surgery (e.g. replacing the whole carpet as reported by LabRat84) to correct the problem.

"Take a page out of shoemaking: use contact cement. Coat each part with a thin layer. The carpet will have great surfaces to bond. Let dry 20 mins. Recoat and redry if you really want more glue. After dry reheat with a heat gun, then stick together, which you can do only once. Contact cement will loosen when heated but will re-adhere when cooled.

For further steps, blind stitch the patch through to the backing carpet with a curved sewing needle. It'll be hard stitching in the driver's leg area, but after done the patch will never come undone.

P.S. You can also use Reina Klebfest (German), which is a shoe adhesive that is weather and water resistant. Use as you would contact cement. i have had great success with this adhesive.
Yes, you can use a hair dryer. The hair dryer heat is only to reactivate the stickiness a little. When I'm lazy I skip the heat. It is best to wait 24 hrs for contact cement, but it is highly unlikely that your carpeting will immediately go through rough treatment, so you have nothing to worry about.
Avoid getting the water-based contact cement they have available. At least in my experience, it excelled in every area except the one key area of holding things together. (It is a lot less stinky, easier to clean up, etc.; but it didn't hold things together reliably.) Online reviews suggest I'm not the only one with this experience.

Ordinary contact cement is handy and pretty reliable stuff. It can be a bit messy, particularly the spray can kind, but it's not all that difficult to use and does what it says it does on the can.
If you can scuff up the back of the moulding. Use a piece of chalk and outline the moulding on the carpet. The chalk can be easily removed later. Apply a very thin layer of contact cement to both the moulding and the carpet on all of the two mating surfaces. Thin layers of glue are better than glooping it on. I cannot see if there is carpeting on the inside of Honda's adhesive line, but if you can put contact cement into there as well. The more surface area you glue the strong your patch. Pay particular attention to getting glue on the edges of both the moulding and the edge of the moulding on the carpet, as they are a stressor. If the edges are not glued down properly and you catch something on the edge this will be the starting point to peel off. You could outline the moulding line on the carpet with painter's tap so that if you glue over the line it will go on the tape instead of the carpet.

Get some fresh contact cement from Home Depot. I usually get the small bottle, as I don't use contact cement enough to warrant the larger bottle. If you do get the larger bottle, vacuum seal it in plastic.

For practice you can try the contact cement on a two pieces of leather."

 

Just a thought: Weatherstrip Cement or Construction Adhesive might give a better grip on the edges than the can of Contact Cement.

Nice write up. Thanks

 

id would use 3M VHB tape for dat.