I cant post helpful info, but I can say with the "cold" that is now here in So Cal has made my tpms go nuts. When I start the car in the morn, the tpms light comes on for a brief 2-3 sec, and then goes away. I simply learned to live with it.

 

This is frustrating and dangerous (since it looks like the Check Engine light - it's distracting). I'll try the TPMS Reset procedure shown in the post above (3x TPMS Button hold to reset the system) since the 1 time button press isn't going into calibration mode with my tires are filled to +/-1 psi difference.

It's funny that Honda's wheel speed sensors that were used on their motorcycle have been flawless.

 

More background:
Indirect Systems

Honda indirect TPMS does not have air pressure sensors inside the tires. Rather, they detect a low tire by comparing relative wheel speeds via the anti-lock brake system (ABS) wheel speed sensors. When a tire loses air, its diameter decreases slightly. The highly popular Honda Accord switched to indirect TPMS for the 2013 model year. Recalibration should be performed when the inflation is corrected or changed. The procedure does not involve any tools, but is intiated by either a TPMS reset button below the steering wheel or by using a series of button presses in the i-Mid driver information center. You can initiate the procedure, but let the customer do the driving.

Before You Start


1. Make sure the vehicle is stopped and in neutral or park.

2. Make sure all the tires are the same size and type.

3. Set the tire pressures to the recommended cold inflation values listed on the driver’s door jamb.

4. Turn the ignition on.

 

It's kind of funny, but the Civic Type-R folks complain about the same system.

 

I'll take your "tape a piece of electrical tape over it" approach. Honda's education is attached.

 

So far the three TPMS button resets in a row fixed the issue (I checked tire pressures this morning and they were all 34-35 psi).

 

Moisture or water in the tire might throw the sensor off.

 

Fits use an indirect TPMS system that uses the ABS wheel sensor rotational rate to determine tire diameter =pressures.

Essentially I had to perform the Dealer reset procedure which was three successive calibration requests in a row using my TPMS button on the dash

 

Yes, the Fit uses info about wheel rotation acquired from the ABS's wheel sensors, rather than uses info from air pressure sensors attached to the Schrader valves, like in some other cars. Great find Jazu – the Honda service bulletin explaining how the TPMS calibration logic works – although the service bulletin might go into more detail than one might need to know. Here is my own wording of the significant part of the bulletin: Honda neglected to put some basic information in the owners manual. If you do a TPMS reset as described in the owners manual – hold down the reset button until the TMPS dash light blinks twice – and the tire pressures have not changed since the last time you did that – then after 20 minutes of driving, the TPMS computer program will figure out that the pressures have not changed and turn the dash light on, again. It is "telling you" that you need to correct the tire pressures because it believes that, after its original warning about a pressure change, instead of correcting the pressures, you simply pressed the reset button. So it is even smarter than the owners manual might have led you to believe. Maybe it is too smart. It will keep turning the warning light back on, after 20 minutes of driving, unless you correct the tire pressure.

If you do not want to change the tire pressure, there is a way to keep the warning light from coming on. It is described in the bulletin as a "special calibration" that the dealer can do, and bill you for! But the fact is, it is a ridiculously simple procedure, one that requires no tools, and that any Honda owner, no matter how cognitively impaired, can do "at home for free." Basically it is just the owners manual-described reset procedure, repeated 2 more time. You don't have to bring your car to the dealership, and give them money even if your car is still under warranty, like the bulletin suggests. When the warning light comes on, you do the owners manual reset procedure – with the car in neutral or park and the ignition turned to on you press and hold the calibration button until the light blinks twice. You wait 5 seconds and do it a second time. Wait 5 seconds and do it a third time. Then you wait another 5 seconds and confirm that the warning light blinks once this time, indicating that the TPMS system has done a "special calibration" – now it will ignore the fact that after you pressed the reset button the first time you didn't correct the air pressure, and it will not turn the warning light back on. However, as usual, it will be ready to turn the light back on if in the future, it detects a pressure change. In my car I've found that about 3 psi of reduction of pressure in one tire, or 2 psi reduction in all 4 tires, is enough to turn the warning light on. So it is quite sensitive. The "special calibration," that isn't mentioned in the owners manual, that the dealer can do, and can charge you for, even if the car is still under warranty, is basically just the regular calibration described in the owners manual, done 3 times.

At the beginning of 2 winters, my Fit's warning light came due to the seasonal temperature change. On the first very cold morning of each winter, I started my car, and a few minutes later the warning light came on, even though I had carefully set the tires pressure and had calibrated the system with the button, only about 2 or 3 weeks earlier, First cold morning of winter. I start the car, drive off, the passenger cabin hasn't even fully warmed up yet, and then, "Oh shoot," I see the warning light go on. I leave the cool car to go into the freezing weather, and check the tire pressures. Due to the drop in temperature, the pressures were down evenly on all 4 tires, by only about 2 psi on each tire, and that was enough to turn on the warning light.