Hey all I am just getting ready to do my valve adjustment and was just wondering what replacement gaskets and such I would need. I am going to be following all the info in this thread https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...clearance.html but it still wasn't too clear on what replacements are needed and I want to be sure I have everything I need before I start so I am not stranded. I have access to a lift and lots of equipment so it shouldn't be too bad. Thanks!

 

why are you adjusting valves? I'll get you more info on tools etc by tomorrow

 

I had a spare valve cover gasket on-hand but didn't even use it (the motor only had 19k miles and the original was still very pliable... no leaks afterwards either).

As for the intake manifold, the two o-ring gaskets between the plastic and aluminum sections didn't even stick so I reused them as well. No vacuum leaks that I could find afterwards.

I thought it would be like the CRV I did last, leak city, but comparatively even though you have to dig through the intake manifold to get to the valves it was a surprisingly easy job.

 

why do u change oil?

 

Changing oil is must. is your valve tapping?

 

I personally believe it's a good idea to check them after they've had a chance to seat. Once you do that you're usually good for a good while. There's a reason most motorcycle makers make you check your valves before you even get 1000 miles on the ticker.

For example, 19k on mine and the intake valves were anywhere from 0.009" to 0.013" (way loose, that 0.013 was tapping kinda hard), and the exhaust valves were 0.005" to 0.008". Just setting back to 0.006" and 0.010" made a huge difference on how it ran, and about a 3-4 mpg restoration (it had fallen quite a bit).

 

^ i guess.. but like you said... your valve was tapping kinda hard... so that made you check it.

 

I would have checked it anyway. The civic got it every spring time.

Reasons:

-clearance affects valve heat. Even being tight by a couple thousandths can make an exhaust valve hot enough to cause timing retard and mileage loss. Unfortunately this does not cause ticking or tapping, and as exhaust valves are more likely to stretch a greater distance than the tappet and valve surfaces are worn, they can get very tight before wear loosens the intake valves enough to be heard.

-clearance affects cam duration much more than lift. The duration determines overlap for scavenging as well as how late in the compression cycle the intake valves close, which can mildly affect power output (and why tighter clearances bump top-end power and looser clearances low-end power), and also pumping loss due to intake vacuum and the difference in mileage that makes. Our cars have an additional concern - how long the "off" valves stay cracked open to keep the fuel from pooling.

-clearance affects fuel ratio. By the principles in the above section, the variations from one cylinder's valves to the next can cause some to run lean and others rich, while the computer only sees the overall ratio via the oxygen sensor. I believe this is the biggest reason incorrect clearance so adversely affects mileage.

Enough reasons for me to spend a couple hours and do the dirty work

 

if DIY, why not =]

 

Hey all I just got through with a move so I am finally getting internet back and such. Thanks for the info guys, I didn't get to the valves this last time, limited time in the garage and info so I just pulled the oil and usual stuff but it will be done next change, probabaly August since theres almost 2k on the oil already. Thanks again!

 

Just curious, but at what interval do you change the oil?

 

Missed the valve tapping question the first time but yes they're tapping and the exhaust has more of a forced puff to it than I would like at idle.

I usually shoot to change oil between 4 and 5k, usually when its most convenient within that span and full synthetic oil is used.

 

Anyone have a clear answer for the OP's question? I feel like adjusting my own valves for the first time and I'm sure my valves need adjusting since at idle, my exhaust note is kind of loud and I can hear slight tapping under load at low RPM.

 

Sorry for dumb question, does valve tapping sound resembles that produced by a sewing machine?

My Jazz has it since new, afaik, even if you can hear it only with open bonnet.

 

^ yes... but is only audible when accelerating from low speeds, and shouldn't be confused with the typical honda injector "tapping" sound at idle... which is what it sounds like you're describing...


i still need to do this...

 

I'm not sure why anyone would ever manually adjust their valves on this engine. Valve adjustment used to be required on Civics, but they have had self-adjusting valves for years now. This car requires little maintenance, and if you have to ask for advice on it, it seems like a great way to screw up.

I have 68,000 miles on my 08 Fit sport m/t and still getting close to 40 mpg in it. If I decide to mod it, I'll be doing simple things like short ram intake and some appearance stuff. If you are really good, you could port and polish it, but these engines are so well built to such tight tolerance, any gain in hp would be negligible.

 

Except... they aren't self adjusting on the fit. It is the EXACT same system Honda used forty years ago in their motorcycles!