[quote=SilverBullet;945434]That is pretty good was it an MT? Very useful! Check this out, I found a VE table calculator through the MegaSquirt standalone website and it let me create this VE map for stock L15A1s:

EVEME 1.0 //VEX format version
UserRev: 1.02
UserComment: Automatically generated
Date: 01-06-111
Time: 02:24

VE Table RPM Range [ 8] # expressed in RPM/100
[ 0] = 7
[ 1] = 12
[ 2] = 21
[ 3] = 30
[ 4] = 39
[ 5] = 47
[ 6] = 56
[ 7] = 65

VE Table Load Range (MAP) [ 8]
[ 0] = 20
[ 1] = 30
[ 2] = 45
[ 3] = 55
[ 4] = 65
[ 5] = 80
[ 6] = 90
[ 7] = 100


VE Table [ 8][ 8]
[ 0] [ 1] [ 2] [ 3] [ 4] [ 5] [ 6] [ 7]
[ 0] = 25 25 31 49 59 63 60 57
[ 1] = 25 25 33 52 64 67 64 61
[ 2] = 25 25 37 57 70 74 71 67
[ 3] = 25 25 39 61 74 78 75 71
[ 4] = 25 25 41 64 78 83 79 75
[ 5] = 25 25 44 70 85 90 86 82
[ 6] = 25 25 47 73 89 94 90 86
[ 7] = 25 25 49 76 93 98 94 89

Initial VE Table Calculator

So with the VE table made I can then put that into this compressor/turbine matching calculator from BorgWarner:

BorgWarner MatchBot

Which is easily the MOST comprehensive flow mapping calculator I have ever seen and is kind of cool to play with. Kind of demonstrates how much is involved in proper turbo selection, and I can't figure out how to post results because every time I link it, it resets my settings. Lets just say play with it yourself and you will be surpised how big of a turbo you can get away with and still spool in a reasonable period!

More than anything it makes me want to compound turbo the L15..

Start off wih the 62K80 compressor, thats basically the same size as a GT2560R, seriously only about 1.6mm bigger where it counts lol and the difference in the new BW Airwerks EFR turbos v. the old Garretts is disgusting:



In Chicago, at 630ft elevation on a 66F day and low humidity a Turbo GD would make roughly 290HP crank @ 7000rpm and 17psi. Along with 230lb-ft @ 5000rpm.

If you made 91.x whp to the ground from 109, that gives us a loss of ~16% or 245whp and 195lb-ft. Which a few people here can do on the GT2554 or GT2560.. but if you look at that blue line you'll see where it mention that the turbo can efficiently (>60%) flow 44lbs/min, which is enough for about 400whp+ and about 315lb-ft You'd have to run ~30psi to do it, but the torque would be epic!

Even the GT2560, which is bigger than what comes in everyone's GD turbo kits mind you, is out of steam well before then and is much more inefficient to run beyond ~23-25lbs/min on our cars, so if you are making 250whp out of a GT25 you are maxing that sucker out.

GT2560:


GT2554R:

 

Just found an absolutely absurd build. Like if NASA wanted to build a 4cyl Turbo, looking for better links but here is a tease of the 2.0L engine putting out "only" 1400HP, this is the work of Spyros @ Extreme Tuning in Athens, Greece :


Flywheel sized turbo (158lb/min )

They also have a 420whp, 12000rpm N/A 2.0L

 

Since EvoM Forums are being difficult here is a link with a bunch of amazing pictures of some very unique parts, at least for street and personal cars. This is the result of unlimited budget and resources.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1575817

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyn...ne-2007-a.html

VWVortex.com - Got engineering?

Since Garrett regular cast aluminum compressor wheels (right) disintegrate above 50psi, and billet aluminum (center) ones, like the 70psi rated wheel in my turbo just won't cut it, they made their own billet Titanium (left) compressor wheels! Good to 100psi+!



Now that's pretty unique on it's own, but the rest of that build makes it look like chump change..

How about a $31,000 Ti crank?


$3,300 Metal Matric Composite connecting rods?



Or Copper Beryllium valve seats?

 

Found the group that does their cylinder heads, and the one that does the complete billet sleeved blocks. A 4cyl custom engine, like an L15A, will run about $8000. But he is going for 2000whp and the crank alone cost 4 times that much.


Check out the double studded main caps which are actually just bolting on more engine block!




He has to use 9000cc injectors, yes 9 liters/min, because he is running methanol.



This is what the 2000HP build car looks like, if you can't tell it is a Mitsubishi Evo:


1500HP Low Boost Dyno Graph:

 

You gd3 people are so lucky. I finally solved the boost creep. However I am now to my final hurdle, fuel cut. Despite tripple checking my maf clamp and map clamp, somehow the ecu is seeing boost. I can get through first gear 90% of the time without a cut, but in second gear the ecu gets really really pissed and shuts it down. I can clamp the maf deeper but then I have to rewrite my fuel tables. Ugh.

 

What did you end up doing for your creep issues?

is there a chance you can clamp the maf, and then just use a larger range map sensor with the same voltage output? (less resolution, but more boost can be dealt with)

I think you will find, like I do, that almost everytime you get in the car and have a few minutes to tweak things, you will

Patience is worth it. You have made it so far, and very quickly!

 

A combination of extreme porting (it was originally dime sized, now half dollar sized) and finally getting a proper downpipe made at a muffler shop.

 

Nice, I take it you are referring to the gate hole?

Whats the ID on the new downpipe?

 

Yep, gate hole was seriously undersized. Dp is 2.5 but crush bent.

 

2.5" should be perfect.

So whats next on the list?

 

I have been following this thread for awhile, barely understanding most of it but what i feel like i do understand is very helpful. My question is, if we had some sort of flash solution for the ecu wouldnt that solve most if not all of the issues with trying to work around the MAFS and the like? I know no one has developed one yet for usdm but im just curious...

 

Just want to get the tune right by the end of the day at least enough to go screw with some fiestas on the highway for shiggles. Then in a couple of weeks I'll get the fmic installed and think about 10 psi since I'm currently peaking and holding at 8psi. But man 16 psi was incredible. I truly wish I had never felt that because eventually I'm going persue it and pay the ultimate price.

 

O yeah I finally properly went through the spring selection and tightening procedure for the bov. Unfortunately I didn't get the turkey gobble noise I was expecting. Just a ricerlicious wooosh that I like.

 

Yes it certainly would. A flashable stock ECU is typically more powerful in terms of processing than most standalones, except for say Motec and the more serious units. But we can always alter the sensor signals to get the results we want, or just spring for a piggyback/standalone!

If there are any questions or misunderstandings please ask! You may find something someone hasnt considered before! Thats how innovation works, especially on platforms with this much untapped potential.

The front mount will make a huge difference. 16psi is about the most we'll be able to run efficiently on a compressor/turbine match like yours, and is probably good for over 220lb-ft at the wheels! Just slowly work your way back up, and make sure to monitor the FIC so you don't overrun the fuel system and lift the head or melt a piston or valve!

Well that could be a good thing unless you have a super sequential BOV. Otherwise that flutter/gobble usually is a sign of compressor surge. The smooth sharp "woosh" is a good thing!

 

Oscar Jr. at Kraft Werks told me that they had to go with the Hondata reflash after working with AEM trying to get their F/IC to tune for the high boost kit for the GD3s...I have my fingers crossed that I can use the F/IC I have stashed away to adjust the air fuel ratio leaner when I get around to getting a methanol/water injection setup.

 

See I have never really understood why that would be an issue at all, considering there are people moving more air at higher boost than his kits for the GDs are capable of.

I am curious if it was an actual hardware issue, or if Hondata cut him a better deal in terms of price/unit and product support.

AEM can be a bunch of cockbags sometimes. But usually their products are pretty solid.

 

He said they were located close to the AEM national headquarters and were back and forth working together but it couldn't be made to work correctly on the Fit.... MnFit had one installed on his car with 10PSI boost and the tuners that did the work finally had to remove it... Finding all of this out is what changed my mind about going the self tune route after picking up the AEM F/IC from another member that had used it on his GD3 and had sold his whole KWSC setup... There was a guy that went by ExplosivePotato that somehow had his turbocharged car work out beautifully according to what he said and he did the tuning himself.. I believe the guy..

 

Hmm, that doesn't make sense. And if they can get a turbo to work, they should be able to get a rotrex to work.. they are both centrifugal compressors.

It's gotta be some parameter in the computer that needs to be simulated or fooled. I may have to PM explosiv, and then call up AEM and KW and see what they have to say. The FIC is an option for other cars, and I don't see where they have had that issue.

Not to doubt KW's abilities, but there has to be more to it than that. It is just a computer afterall.

I am confident I will be able to get the FIC to work for me, and there is no reason that I can find that it shouldn't work for you as well. But I can't blame you for not diving in. I have a strong feeling that Lyon or I will be able to crack that riddle in time. He has a jump on me at the moment as my budget for the Fit is tight, but I am collecting parts. I need the warranty to go up first, so I still have a few months to go before starting!

There are other projects taking my time, money and leaving me with no sleep

 

Finally got it where I can drive around. Bizzare thing Is how it happened. If you hit the fuel cut enough times it just gives up. You seem to have to do this in every gear. It almost as if they knee I would be doing this.

 

It seems to me that the Rotrex would be easier to tune for than a turbo also but I am thinking that it has something to do with the ECU being set up for the green car thing and the Rotrex putting out more boost at lower revs but that is a shot in the dark reasoning... It is sticking my neck out to consider using the F/IC to cut back on fuel for water/methanol use but since the ECU is no longer set to factory specs I can't see why it shouldn't...Maybe I need to call and ask Hondata before buying the needed harness to hook up the F/IC...