L15A running TD05H 14b + Water/Meth?
#121
11-23-2010, 01:24 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
Maybe by just finding a gasket for each we could find out.
There also appears to be plenty of material on that flange for drilling new bolt/stud holes.. Now if that checks out, and it hangs at an angle that would allow a turbo to fit you're in business!
#122
11-23-2010, 01:37 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
Also Lyon, that last 3AM PM about IDCs w/ Nitrous..
I meant to say that on our stock injectors 80%IDC would've been 640cc/min, and you would have needed the N2O equivalent of ~240cc/min of gasoline to handle the extra 5-7lbs/min, and this would have to be done under positive pressure, so likely in the ~51psi range, vs 43.5base fuel pressure, and my concerns was the stock pump wouldn't be able to keep up without alot more nitrous or the addition of methanol on top of the nitrous to satisfy cooling requirements and knock preventing in the absence of race gas.
On a boosted nitrous application you want to tune for 10.5-11AFRs and pull ~2* timing...
Spraying a 55shot on a Fit would probably have required ~11.5:1AFRs with 1-2* timing pulled.. Though maybe you already know this?
Did you actually pop an L15? I would be curious to see the autopsy
Did you ever determine what happened? Nitrous pooled up somewhere for a big ol boom?
Were you using an RPM "pill" window switch?
Which brings me to another interesting idea I have been throwing around for my GDs eventual surgery..
There are folks in the DSM world like Nate Crisman and others who use 30/70 Methanol/Ethanol blends, spraying nitrous on top of that with great success. Nate alone uses this method on 3 low 10second 4 cylinders that he built himself in his garage.
The methanol, ethanol and nitrous all complement eachother to the point where if you run an IC core the charge may cool to the point where the fuels fall out of suspension and condense back into a liquid. Meaning you can just run a hot pipe of the compressor straight to the intake mani!
This is on boosted and high compression setups mind you, so clearly they do their jobs well!
I meant to say that on our stock injectors 80%IDC would've been 640cc/min, and you would have needed the N2O equivalent of ~240cc/min of gasoline to handle the extra 5-7lbs/min, and this would have to be done under positive pressure, so likely in the ~51psi range, vs 43.5base fuel pressure, and my concerns was the stock pump wouldn't be able to keep up without alot more nitrous or the addition of methanol on top of the nitrous to satisfy cooling requirements and knock preventing in the absence of race gas.
On a boosted nitrous application you want to tune for 10.5-11AFRs and pull ~2* timing...
Spraying a 55shot on a Fit would probably have required ~11.5:1AFRs with 1-2* timing pulled.. Though maybe you already know this?
Did you actually pop an L15? I would be curious to see the autopsy
Did you ever determine what happened? Nitrous pooled up somewhere for a big ol boom?Were you using an RPM "pill" window switch?
Which brings me to another interesting idea I have been throwing around for my GDs eventual surgery..
There are folks in the DSM world like Nate Crisman and others who use 30/70 Methanol/Ethanol blends, spraying nitrous on top of that with great success. Nate alone uses this method on 3 low 10second 4 cylinders that he built himself in his garage.
The methanol, ethanol and nitrous all complement eachother to the point where if you run an IC core the charge may cool to the point where the fuels fall out of suspension and condense back into a liquid. Meaning you can just run a hot pipe of the compressor straight to the intake mani!
This is on boosted and high compression setups mind you, so clearly they do their jobs well!
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 11-23-2010 at 01:42 AM.
#123
11-23-2010, 03:39 AM
![Lyon[Nightroad]'s Avatar](https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/customavatars/avatar31469_2.gif){kind=avatar}
GE8 regulator is set at about 52psi. Spec is from 47-54psi. iirc I did turn the screw on the 50psi switch about a quarter turn which should be about 45psi. I never really had to worry about anything but fuel pressure drop. As long as the pressure is there, the injectors do their normal duty and the fuel gets metered correctly at the jet. The jets of today have solid enough designs that you don't have to worry about AFRs as long as you keep the pressure up. The jets are actually metered for about 35 psi of fuel so I was running stupid rich. All was well. 20 bottles and never once did I trip the knock sensor. You really don't have to pull timing on a 55 shot for an engine that normally runs on 87octane. Run 93 octane and you have the tolerance for that first ~50 shot. I was running a digital rpm switch, I would never recommend a pill based switch nowadays when a digital switch can be had for the same price.
I did have a bad experience with preignition a while ago, I hit the speed governor before I even realized I was up to 115. As fate would have it that was the same day I had the fuel pressure switch out. So fuel stopped flowing but nitrous kept flowing. Lean induced preignition ensued. Oddly enough even though I had completly melted the center electrode right out of the 1 and 2 spark plugs, no apparent damage occurred to the engine. A week later after changing the plugs, white smoke started pouring out of my Pcv system. I had assumed that the smoke was blowby and I had cooked the rings. In reality my pcv filter was so covered in oil mist that the crankcase pressure was getting too high and caused the smoke. I could not have been a HG because there was no smoke in the exhaust ever. I changed the pcv filter and the problem fixed
Itself.
I did have a bad experience with preignition a while ago, I hit the speed governor before I even realized I was up to 115. As fate would have it that was the same day I had the fuel pressure switch out. So fuel stopped flowing but nitrous kept flowing. Lean induced preignition ensued. Oddly enough even though I had completly melted the center electrode right out of the 1 and 2 spark plugs, no apparent damage occurred to the engine. A week later after changing the plugs, white smoke started pouring out of my Pcv system. I had assumed that the smoke was blowby and I had cooked the rings. In reality my pcv filter was so covered in oil mist that the crankcase pressure was getting too high and caused the smoke. I could not have been a HG because there was no smoke in the exhaust ever. I changed the pcv filter and the problem fixed
Itself.
#124
11-24-2010, 02:34 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
GE8 regulator is set at about 52psi. Spec is from 47-54psi. iirc I did turn the screw on the 50psi switch about a quarter turn which should be about 45psi. I never really had to worry about anything but fuel pressure drop. As long as the pressure is there, the injectors do their normal duty and the fuel gets metered correctly at the jet. The jets of today have solid enough designs that you don't have to worry about AFRs as long as you keep the pressure up. The jets are actually metered for about 35 psi of fuel so I was running stupid rich. All was well. 20 bottles and never once did I trip the knock sensor. You really don't have to pull timing on a 55 shot for an engine that normally runs on 87octane. Run 93 octane and you have the tolerance for that first ~50 shot. I was running a digital rpm switch, I would never recommend a pill based switch nowadays when a digital switch can be had for the same price.
I did have a bad experience with preignition a while ago, I hit the speed governor before I even realized I was up to 115. As fate would have it that was the same day I had the fuel pressure switch out. So fuel stopped flowing but nitrous kept flowing. Lean induced preignition ensued. Oddly enough even though I had completly melted the center electrode right out of the 1 and 2 spark plugs, no apparent damage occurred to the engine. A week later after changing the plugs, white smoke started pouring out of my Pcv system. I had assumed that the smoke was blowby and I had cooked the rings. In reality my pcv filter was so covered in oil mist that the crankcase pressure was getting too high and caused the smoke. I could not have been a HG because there was no smoke in the exhaust ever. I changed the pcv filter and the problem fixed
Itself.
I did have a bad experience with preignition a while ago, I hit the speed governor before I even realized I was up to 115. As fate would have it that was the same day I had the fuel pressure switch out. So fuel stopped flowing but nitrous kept flowing. Lean induced preignition ensued. Oddly enough even though I had completly melted the center electrode right out of the 1 and 2 spark plugs, no apparent damage occurred to the engine. A week later after changing the plugs, white smoke started pouring out of my Pcv system. I had assumed that the smoke was blowby and I had cooked the rings. In reality my pcv filter was so covered in oil mist that the crankcase pressure was getting too high and caused the smoke. I could not have been a HG because there was no smoke in the exhaust ever. I changed the pcv filter and the problem fixed
Itself.
Great info! You are right the pill switches are outdated but the majority of the people I knew using spray were pretty much antiques themselves
So for the bulk of my N2O experience was on carburated applications, where even on 93 you didn't have a real wide margin of safety.Yea I agree you can get away with full timing, usually till 75-100shot, but pulling a degree or two can be the difference between finishing the pull or lifting the head or windowing the block.
I usually err on the side of caution with my tunes and those I do for others, and thats why I go through the pain of mixing my own fuels and maintaining an alky kit. It just gives me more head room.
You probably would have had overheating issues if it was a head gasket, or you would have coolant in your oil. I wonder where the slag went from the melted electrodes.. Having done the same thing and found it had resolidified in my waste gate dump pipe, and having something similar occur with a pizza slice of an exhaust valve hat, it is amazing what engines will live through.
There were pictures of a cylinder head that had a fire ring crack and methanol burned through requiring the head to be TIG'd and shaved.
Do you still have your bad long block?
#125
11-24-2010, 02:48 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
So I found this Fit specific porting video tonight, which I thought was kind of cool, because it is EXACTLY how I do my work, and here is an example below of one I did recently for my 2.0L "long rod" standing mile/land speed build:
Now here is some work from David Hsu, the founder of Skunk2:
Skunk2 Racing: HONDA FIT CYLINDER HEAD PORTING
Before (Stock GD head)
After
The video is showing the exact method and what you should be looking for, casting flashes and overhangs that are just a by product of the casting process and exist in many if not most cylinder heads, more than 95% of the ones I have handled at least. This includes late models like the GDs/GEs as well. So with a steady hand and a junk head to practice on, you too can extract extra flow, and more power from your head with a dremel, some brake cleaner, simple green for hot tanking and some fine polishes!
Don't let this happen to you:
Now here is some work from David Hsu, the founder of Skunk2:
Skunk2 Racing: HONDA FIT CYLINDER HEAD PORTING
Before (Stock GD head)
After
The video is showing the exact method and what you should be looking for, casting flashes and overhangs that are just a by product of the casting process and exist in many if not most cylinder heads, more than 95% of the ones I have handled at least. This includes late models like the GDs/GEs as well. So with a steady hand and a junk head to practice on, you too can extract extra flow, and more power from your head with a dremel, some brake cleaner, simple green for hot tanking and some fine polishes!
Don't let this happen to you:
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 11-24-2010 at 02:52 AM.
#126
11-25-2010, 12:18 AM
Never made a bad long block. For a short period of time I thought I had because of the pcv smoke but my compression test revealed 165 in each cylinder, no variation. I lucked out.
#127
11-25-2010, 01:00 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
That's always a nice surprise! The I wonder just how much extra positive crankcase pressure the 55shot creates.. sounds like a catch can might be in your future. You can make your own as well!
.
.
.
Something you mentioned in PM the other day got me thinking... You pointed out that the GEs have a Base Fuel Pressure of 52psi.
When groups like Injector Dynamics or Fuel Injector Clinic sell a batch of injectors they sell them based on their flow rating @ 3bar, ~43.5psi.
From what I have found on many systems, when you raise or lower BFP, there is a near linear trend in the flow volume (I'm sure there is some coefficient for it depending on fuel system factors)
Injectors rated to flow of 185cc/min @ 43.5 psi (usually within .5%) across a batch of 4 from either company, can actually sustain ~215cc/min @ 52psi BFP. This is using a 100%IDC, most manufacturers recommend 80% IDCs max. So that means even 80% @ 52psi is only 172cc/min
At 5psi boost on top of a 52psi BFP, for a total 57psi fuel pressure on a 1:1 ratio pressure regulator with an adequate pump, lines, filter and rail, those same 185cc/min injectors could flow 229cc/min @ 100%IDC or 183cc/min @ 80% IDC.
The KW kits seem to offer 195cc/min and 310cc/min units as well, but 195cc/min @ 80%IDC and 52psi BFP is only 193cc/min, or 241cc/min @ 100% IDC
310cc/min @ 80% = 307cc/min
310cc/min @ 100% = 383cc/min
If the rated 185cc/min is @ 52psi BFP, they are even smaller.. either way what all this is leading to is this:
Just how thermally and volumetrically efficient are our engines? How much torque/hp are we able to produce per 1lb/min of mass airflow, or what our Brake Specific Fuel Consumption actually is.
Then I want to know what sort of drivetrain loss we have MT v AT, GD v GE, so we can make a rough calculator from lbs/min to hp for our Fits, this would make it easier for people to match turbos/superchargers to their goals among other things.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 11-25-2010 at 01:03 AM.
#128
11-25-2010, 01:16 AM
one step ahead of you. Blue alluminum bottle is the 'ole diy catch can with about 40 feet of fine copper wire inside to help pull the oil mist out of suspension.
whats interesting is that fuel pump may have even more capcity because the KM fits are:
whats interesting is that fuel pump may have even more capcity because the KM fits are:
- Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be 380−430 kPa (3.9−4.4 kgf/cm 2 , 55−63 psi).
- If the pressure is OK, the test is complete.
Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; 11-25-2010 at 01:20 AM.
#129
11-25-2010, 01:25 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
Well done!
165psi across the board is pretty good, but it sounds kinda on the low side for 10.4:1CR. Have you tried a leak down tester?
Since we are on the topic of DIY devices and leak down testers here is my pvc boost leak and intake tract leakdown tester for 4" turbo inlets:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
#130
11-25-2010, 01:31 AM
lol thats pretty slick for diy.
Service limit is 142 psi. So I feel pretty secure with 165. I probably could have gotten a better number if the battery wasn't so weak.
Compression
Pressure check at 250 rpm (min −1 ) with wide open throttle. (See Design Specs for ratio)
Minimum
980 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm 2 , 142 psi)
———
Maximum variation
200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm 2 , 28 psi)
———
Service limit is 142 psi. So I feel pretty secure with 165. I probably could have gotten a better number if the battery wasn't so weak.
Compression
Pressure check at 250 rpm (min −1 ) with wide open throttle. (See Design Specs for ratio)
Minimum
980 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm 2 , 142 psi)
———
Maximum variation
200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm 2 , 28 psi)
———
#131
11-25-2010, 02:05 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
lol thats pretty slick for diy.
Service limit is 142 psi. So I feel pretty secure with 165. I probably could have gotten a better number if the battery wasn't so weak.
Compression
Pressure check at 250 rpm (min −1 ) with wide open throttle. (See Design Specs for ratio)
Minimum
980 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm 2 , 142 psi)
———
Maximum variation
200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm 2 , 28 psi)
———
Service limit is 142 psi. So I feel pretty secure with 165. I probably could have gotten a better number if the battery wasn't so weak.
Compression
Pressure check at 250 rpm (min −1 ) with wide open throttle. (See Design Specs for ratio)
Minimum
980 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm 2 , 142 psi)
———
Maximum variation
200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm 2 , 28 psi)
———
Only $40 total, 1 trip to home depot and gave the pushlock pneumatic fitting a little love from the torch and just let it melt and seal its self into the PVC. Less than 45 minutes including the trip to the store!
Good to know, great info.. I only even brought it up because during break-in, I used the Moto-man/BMW M factory method (drive it like ya stole it) and at 1000 miles I saw low-mid 190s after letting it cool off to the point that I could hold the spark plugs with my bare hands, I am now curious to see what it would be today @ 23500 miles. I don't recall adding any oil, but perhaps it was a wet compression I just don't see how they would be that high otherwise in comparison.. This is my L15A1 (GD3).
For comparison one of my 2.0L's, an 8.6:1 with 3500 miles of very hard driving, as in after the first 100 miles, it saw minimum 15psi+ all day at least two-three times a week.. just put up 160 165 160 160 on sunday with a little oil sprayed in each hole. This was with high duration (274*) high lift (.411") cams with a healthy bit of overlap, which brings down my effective compression
A 129k stock 7.8:1CR longblock that is about to become an aluminum con-rod, "long rod" standing mile motor, put up 135psi across the board with <10% leak down.
If I can find time I should re-test the GD3.
And in case anyone is interested, I just stumbled across these nice little articles that other forum members might find useful to make sense of some of what is discussed throughout the thread:
Thermal Efficiency of Engines by EPI, Inc.
Power and Torque: Understanding the Relationship Between the Two, by EPI Inc.
Volumetric Efficiency (and the REAL factor: MASS AIRFLOW), by EPI Inc.
Brake Mean Effective Pressure (BMEP): The Performance Yardstick
A Summary of Tools for Comparing One Engine to Another
While looking for a crankcase vacuum pump for the race car:
Crankcase Vacuum Facts - Racing Engines & High Performance Oil Pumps
#132
11-25-2010, 02:44 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
one step ahead of you. Blue alluminum bottle is the 'ole diy catch can with about 40 feet of fine copper wire inside to help pull the oil mist out of suspension.
whats interesting is that fuel pump may have even more capcity because the KM fits are:
whats interesting is that fuel pump may have even more capcity because the KM fits are:
- Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be 380−430 kPa (3.9−4.4 kgf/cm 2 , 55−63 psi).
- If the pressure is OK, the test is complete.
55-63psi huh? thats not bad! So 11psi before we run out of pump?
That puts us at 242cc/min on the 185s @ 100% IDCs and 194cc/min @ 80%
On the 310s we get 406cc/min @ 100%, and 325cc/min @ 80%.
Edit: I should point out that it is not entirely linear rise in volume when you raise fuel pressure, there are diminishing returns, and just how diminished depends on your individual fuel system.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 11-25-2010 at 12:53 PM.
#134
11-28-2010, 07:55 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
Thanks to another FitFreak, shukes24 I managed to stumble across some nice new shoes for the GD3:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Love em already, and he left me some nice (studdable!) snow tires with almost no wear.
My cellphone doesn't do them justice, and I think I am going to find or modify an OE "(H)" center caps like this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Love em already, and he left me some nice (studdable!) snow tires with almost no wear.
My cellphone doesn't do them justice, and I think I am going to find or modify an OE "(H)" center caps like this:
#135
11-28-2010, 08:57 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
From a discussion on a private tuning forum tonight that I thought some other car geeks may be able to appreciate:
Probably a repost but I thought it was cool, I learned some stuff. 
The Definition of Acceleration
Read this thru slowly and try to comprehend the amount of force produced in just under 4 seconds!
There are no rockets or airplanes built by any government in the world that can accelerate from a standing start as fast as a Top Fuel Dragster or Funny Car!
DEFINITION OF ACCELERATION
One top fuel dragster 500 cubic inch Hemi engine makes more horsepower than the first 4 rows of stock cars at the Daytona 500.
It takes just 15/100ths of a second for all 6,000+ horsepower of an NHRA Top Fuel dragster engine to reach the rear wheels.
Under full throttle, a dragster engine consumes 1-1/2 gallons of nitro methane per second; a fully loaded 747 consumes jet fuel at the same rate with 25% less energy being produced.
A stock Dodge Hemi V8 engine cannot produce enough power to drive the dragster's supercharger.
With 3,000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive, the fuel mixture is compressed into a near-solid form before ignition.
Cylinders run on the verge of hydraulic lock at full throttle.
At the stoichiometric (stoichiometry: methodology and technology by which quantities of reactants and products in chemical reactions are determined) 1.7:1 air/fuel mixture of nitro methane, the flame front temperature measures 7,050 deg F.
Nitro methane burns yellow... The spectacular white flame seen above the stacks at night is raw burning hydrogen, dissociated from atmospheric water vapor by the searing exhaust gases.
Dual magnetos supply 44 amps to each spark plug. This is the output of an arc welder in each cylinder.
Spark plug electrodes are totally consumed during a pass. A fter halfway, the engine is dieseling from compression, plus the glow of exhaust valves at 1,400 deg F. The engine can only be shut down by cutting the fuel flow.
If spark momentarily fails early in the run, unburned nitro builds up in the affected cylinders and then explodes with sufficient force to blow cylinder heads off the block in pieces or split the block in half.
In order to exceed 300 mph in 4.5 seconds, dragsters must accelerate an average of over 4G's. In order to reach 200 mph (well before half-track), the launch acceleration approaches 8G's.
Dragsters reach over 300 miles per hour before you have completed reading this sentence.
Top fuel engines turn approximately 540 revolutions from light to light! Including the burnout, the engine must only survive 900 revolutions under load.
The redline is actually quite high at 9,500 rpm.
A ssuming all the equipment is paid off, the crew worked for free, and for once NOTHING BLOWS UP, each run costs an estimate $1,000.00 per second.
The current top fuel dragster elapsed time record is 4.428 seconds for the quarter mile (11/12/06, Tony Schumacher, at Pomona , CA ). The top speed record is 336.15 mph as measured over the last 66' of the run (05/25/05 Tony Schumacher, at Hebron , OH ).
Putting all of this into perspective:
You are driving the average $140,000 Lingenfelter 'twin-turbo' powered Corvette Z06. Over a mile up the road, a top fuel dragster is staged and ready to launch down a quarter mile strip as you pass. You have the advantage of a flying start. You run the 'Vette hard up through the gears and blast across the starting line and pass the dragster at an honest 200 mph. The 'tree' goes green for both of you at that moment.
The dragster launches and starts after you. You keep your foot down hard, but you hear an incredibly brutal whine that sears your eardrums and within 3 seconds, the dragster catches and passes you. He beats you to the finish line, a quarter mile away from where you just passed him.
Think about it, from a standing start, the dragster had spotted you 200 mph and not only caught, but nearly blasted you off the road when he passed you within a mere 1,320 foot long race course.
...and that my friend, is ACCELERATION!
The Definition of Acceleration
Read this thru slowly and try to comprehend the amount of force produced in just under 4 seconds!
There are no rockets or airplanes built by any government in the world that can accelerate from a standing start as fast as a Top Fuel Dragster or Funny Car!
DEFINITION OF ACCELERATION
One top fuel dragster 500 cubic inch Hemi engine makes more horsepower than the first 4 rows of stock cars at the Daytona 500.
It takes just 15/100ths of a second for all 6,000+ horsepower of an NHRA Top Fuel dragster engine to reach the rear wheels.
Under full throttle, a dragster engine consumes 1-1/2 gallons of nitro methane per second; a fully loaded 747 consumes jet fuel at the same rate with 25% less energy being produced.
A stock Dodge Hemi V8 engine cannot produce enough power to drive the dragster's supercharger.
With 3,000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive, the fuel mixture is compressed into a near-solid form before ignition.
Cylinders run on the verge of hydraulic lock at full throttle.
At the stoichiometric (stoichiometry: methodology and technology by which quantities of reactants and products in chemical reactions are determined) 1.7:1 air/fuel mixture of nitro methane, the flame front temperature measures 7,050 deg F.
Nitro methane burns yellow... The spectacular white flame seen above the stacks at night is raw burning hydrogen, dissociated from atmospheric water vapor by the searing exhaust gases.
Dual magnetos supply 44 amps to each spark plug. This is the output of an arc welder in each cylinder.
Spark plug electrodes are totally consumed during a pass. A fter halfway, the engine is dieseling from compression, plus the glow of exhaust valves at 1,400 deg F. The engine can only be shut down by cutting the fuel flow.
If spark momentarily fails early in the run, unburned nitro builds up in the affected cylinders and then explodes with sufficient force to blow cylinder heads off the block in pieces or split the block in half.
In order to exceed 300 mph in 4.5 seconds, dragsters must accelerate an average of over 4G's. In order to reach 200 mph (well before half-track), the launch acceleration approaches 8G's.
Dragsters reach over 300 miles per hour before you have completed reading this sentence.
Top fuel engines turn approximately 540 revolutions from light to light! Including the burnout, the engine must only survive 900 revolutions under load.
The redline is actually quite high at 9,500 rpm.
A ssuming all the equipment is paid off, the crew worked for free, and for once NOTHING BLOWS UP, each run costs an estimate $1,000.00 per second.
The current top fuel dragster elapsed time record is 4.428 seconds for the quarter mile (11/12/06, Tony Schumacher, at Pomona , CA ). The top speed record is 336.15 mph as measured over the last 66' of the run (05/25/05 Tony Schumacher, at Hebron , OH ).
Putting all of this into perspective:
You are driving the average $140,000 Lingenfelter 'twin-turbo' powered Corvette Z06. Over a mile up the road, a top fuel dragster is staged and ready to launch down a quarter mile strip as you pass. You have the advantage of a flying start. You run the 'Vette hard up through the gears and blast across the starting line and pass the dragster at an honest 200 mph. The 'tree' goes green for both of you at that moment.
The dragster launches and starts after you. You keep your foot down hard, but you hear an incredibly brutal whine that sears your eardrums and within 3 seconds, the dragster catches and passes you. He beats you to the finish line, a quarter mile away from where you just passed him.
Think about it, from a standing start, the dragster had spotted you 200 mph and not only caught, but nearly blasted you off the road when he passed you within a mere 1,320 foot long race course.
...and that my friend, is ACCELERATION!
#136
11-28-2010, 11:37 PM
Thanks to another FitFreak, shukes24 I managed to stumble across some nice new shoes for the GD3:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Love em already, and he left me some nice (studdable!) snow tires with almost no wear.
My cellphone doesn't do them justice, and I think I am going to find or modify an OE "(H)" center caps like this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Love em already, and he left me some nice (studdable!) snow tires with almost no wear.
My cellphone doesn't do them justice, and I think I am going to find or modify an OE "(H)" center caps like this:
Looking good, I miss that car. I already have steely's on the civic but it would be nice if they had some good covers.
#137
11-29-2010, 12:00 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
The shame of it is, I just bought some new cheap steels for the Fit.
The only reason these Rotas are going to see winter is because they already have a set of new snow tires mounted and I am not above saving the $100 bucks to have them removed and remounted.
Something I found odd:
I still have the spare in the car, which allegedly has a TPMS unit, but get this.. I went for a drive tonight after install for about 20 minutes let it sit at a friends for another half hour and then drove back and my TPMS light never came on.
So now I have a couple questions.
Does it just need more time before it comes on?
Is it because there is still air in the stock tires, and they have just been removed so instead of a low tire signal there is no signal at all except for one reporting good pressure? (the spare)
I know the wheels/tires came off a GE, do you think the previous owner might have had TPMS sensors installed in the Rotas?
Last spring I hit a severe pot hole while going about ~50mph on Lake-Cook Rd (IL-58) and it without exaggeration, shattered the driver front TPMS unit, which sent off the light immediately even though the tire never lost pressure.
So I am thoroughly confused on why I have not had the TPMS idiot light come on? Maybe Lyon or someone versed in both the ESM and GEs can chime in?
#138
11-29-2010, 12:51 PM
Those caps are like the ones I had on a 59 Impala convertible 39 years ago. They were 14 inch if my recollection of them is correct and were of of a 50s Corvette.
#139
11-30-2010, 02:25 AM
I checked the esm for you but there is absolutely no mention of the tpms sensors in esm !? "There is no shop manual to apply" -Broken ESM English search results
#140
12-01-2010, 02:00 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 4,424
Back when cars truly had personality and big blocks reigned supreme.
They are indeed 14" haha I am trying to imagine them on SB's Civic
At this point I have come to the conclusion that the previous owner had to have installed TPMS units because my light still hasn't come on, and they've been on the car for 3 days.
When I had one break on impact the TPMS light came on immediately, so I figure that as soon as I put the OE rims in the shed the light should have come on, or atleast when I leave the neighborhood, there can't be much range to them.
Came across a couple cool links tonight that you might find interesting Lyon (or any tech/race geek GE owners for that matter
):Honda Racing HPD L15A7 Engine Kit Assembly Manual
http://racing.honda.com/hpd/images/p...ual_100217.pdf
Honda Fit Engine in Formula Ford Proposed Rules
http://www.scca.com/documents/Club%2...0Rev%208-5.pdf
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 12-01-2010 at 02:05 AM.
