It is currently 12F in my garage, my little weather station is showing -5F windchill.

 

That is as colder than what I have experienced in 17 years when I has living up on the High Plains. That was about the daytime high for a week and then it was back up in the 60s and I got the hell out of there.

 

Lucky.

12F is not even glove weather here

But it can also be 100F and 90% humidity

 

Ya I think we have 50* of spark adjust on the GDs. The Subaru might as well.

Richer means slower burn, so it can start the spark sooner, but 47* tells me you have a real happy tune. I am guessing this is your advance under cruise and low throttle?

 

It was glove weather on the plains with a constant 30 MPH wind.. It was normally as dry as a popcorn fart and highs hitting 112 that summer but without humidity it wasn't bad... I was out chasing tail at a blues club in Lubbock and it was 100 degrees at midnight but just before sunup it was down in the upper 60s...... About the timing: It is above 30 unless the pedal is down and accelerating and gets into the upper 40s at about 45 to 60 MPH with a light foot on the pedal on level ground.. At over 25 percent throttle while accelerating or going up hill it drops into the 20s and over 50 percent throttle doing the same it can get into the upper single digits, when the boost climbs the timing can be almost zilch at full throttle.

 

I can't help but wonder if it wouldn't be feasible to try and use the F/IC to adjust to a leaner mixture along with methanol/water injection since gas prices are climbing again. I believe it was on the Snow website that I read that some outrageous percentage of M/W could be used in place of full at WOT and full boost with injectors mounted in the intake runners.... Some of the diesel guys are getting greatly improved mileage with just water... The possibilities are almost endless compared to what was going on 25 years ago if you have a clue as to what to do with what is available.... I tried a multiple spark Mallory box in my Safari van and went a couple of heat range numbers colder on spark plugs with great results though I have read on other forums they do nothing for performance or Fuel Mileage... I read recently on a Cobb site Glenn referred me to that they were great with boost.. Don't worry I'm not going to say a thing about hydrogen generators.

 

112 is brutal. 100 at midnight is hard to imagine. But the nice part about going on the hunt when temps are high is what trim you do come across is usually not wearing much

Anywho.. you stand to pick up a sh!t ton of power if you can get some of your timing back. 8-9* at 10psi vs. 18-21* at 10 psi would be night and day. The rotrex is probably also putting out +300F air at that boost (pre-intercooler) when the intake air is approaching 100F. The ECU is going to pull additional timing when IATs are above a certain threshold, usually around 100F. Also if coolant temps are high 200F or more typically, it will pull timing. Both will usually yank 1* advance for every 10F increase.

So 110F intake temps and 210F coolant will take 2* timing for instance. Any knock will usually take 2-3* advance for every 1* retard, and on top of that it may make the corresponding fuel cells richer through the map regions preceeding and following the troublesome cell that saw the knock in the first place.

Time for some meth and/or toluene!

Call up the folks at Devils Own, Snow Performance or AEM and atleast get a quote on what setup they recommend you for your L15A and as much as 30lbs/min airflow.

Remember with the toluene you don't have to do anything other than mix it to your liking and dump it in the gas tank. Since you are wary of tune issues.. that would be the way to go. No tuning necessary, but you can make a pretty potent homebrew with even just 1gal toluene in a 10gal tank of premium grade pump gas.

One five gallon can can last you 5 tanks! or $4-7/tank to add legit 118oct unleaded race fuel. Even if it only brings you up 2-5 full octane points, there are many other chemical advantages. Even adding 1-2% water and as much as 0.5% water soluble oil can go a long way.

 

Hydrogen is cool too. I know people who have run propane kits (borrowed from turbodiesel guys) on their turbo 4 cyls with great success.

Water is also a great additive! I am sure you could use the FIC in that capacity, but I would start very conservative (very rich, and low timing)

Cobb tuning is a legit group, I would take their word over what random guys on a forum have to say, as most of the time they have no experience on the matter.

There are a few individuals on this forum dedicated to such populism and spreading bad info because they feel or believe things to be a certain why. Often in spite of evidence.

Funny how they never post in this thread

Those MSD DIS and ARC 2 ignition modules and coil on plug units with multiple spark events per revolution are pretty nice. Kind of like the i-DSI systems on overseas L15s.

They actually produce a better torque curve, often as much as 90% of peak torque throughout the entire rev range because of their multi spark and cam phasing system! So you are onto somehting there. Besides your own experience tells you they can provide a tangible effect. You certainly have more experience than many on here, and I would take your word over many others. Glenn as well. You both constantly keep me challenged.

I am still looking into your einstein fridge sodium intercooler btw. Learning a lot of cool stuff. Obviously its all thermodynamically sound science. But to make it practical and useful in that environment will be tricky. Still have some more reading to do! Keep em coming

 

Toluene is in Berryman's B-12 and it does work.... Even with my exhaust system, the stuff will turn off the CEL so yes there are gains to be had other than higher octane... It will be awhile before I can purchase a large can of it since I am committed to purchasing some Skunk2 Pro C coil overs and other things I need around here like another dog.... They are the best therapy I know of for combat related PTSD, though there is a guy I know named Mallard that swears by ducks.

 

Oooh ya, no contest. Coil Overs and Dog > Toluene

What breed you think you'll go with?

I don't know much about ducks to be honest, other than they are tasty. But if they can help with trauma, that is really cool and makes me curious to know how he figured that out.

PTSD is no joke man and if theres anything I can do for ya I am all ears.

Some of my friends are coming back from Afghanistan and Iraq "shell-shocked," some with injuries from shrapnel and concussion as well.

Anyways.. I think a dog might have more personality though. Not too mention I don't see a duck picking up on him cues as well...

Looks like it may be time for me to go pass out! Take it easy man, talk to you tomorrow!

 

I was reading about toulene actually and got a little nervous when discussions of just how bad of a carcinogen it is came up. They made it sound like one drop on your skin would instantly form a malignant growth. Anyway, simulating the iat at a flat 55 degrees has eliminated 75% of the fuel and spark cuts I was getting. This is very very good since it was already stable enough to take friends at work for a test drive (in this sh/t weather) it was cool until I did a one legged burn out all the way through 4th gear and caused a fuel cut. The ecu still doesn't like it too much when I boost at 30% throttle in 3rd gear but ecu is also grainy me on when to push it and when to let off it to completely avoid unmapped regions of the stock fuel map. Anyway things could not possibly be going better. I'm still shocked and awed by how I knew next to nothing just 2 months ago and now I'm sitting in my own self boosted car. I like the way it puts me back in my seat but this things mere existence brings me more pride than just the extra speed. Okay I'll stop beaming now.

 

You've definitely earned it! That is the only way to really learn whats involved.

I like to think maybe I prodded you down this path instead of retrofitting a rotrex even though cost was probably a bigger deciding factor!

What boost are you running now?

Alright, really going to sleep now.. Maybe.

 

Still at 8psi of course. I have no plans whatsoever of changing that for a good while. Too many things to play with still: perfecting tune, fmic, retarding less timing, etc. My closed loop oscilates alot under part throttle since I am essentially letting the stock ecu trim towards my desired afr of 12.5 part throttle under boost. With the fic I'm pretty much just telling the ecu that stoich is 12.5 under boost and 14.7 off boost. This keeps them in happy harmony rather than trying to duke it out and manually create an exact fuel map with fic. In open loop, of course, it completely ignores the o2 so I can dial it in between 11.5 and 12.1 with absolutely no fear of the stock ecu undoing my work. As long as I'm close with my fuel map in the closed loop region, the factory ecu takes care of the rest as it wants to stay at what it believes to be stoich, but in trimming the fuel with the stock ecu oscillations of +/- .75 afr naturally arise as it goes above and below my target afr with all the crazy variables in part throttle driving. This is completely fine at 8psi with 93 pump it would seem since it doesn't go to 13 for anywhere near enough time to raise egts. This leads me to believe that my old idea of programming a scramble boost function will be... Ideal. I could make it so that 10-12 psi only can occur at 95% commanded throttle, which will always always be open loop, this way these higher boost levels only occur in a an area of my fuel map I have exact control over and the ecu will not fight me for but I can still be relaxed with closed loop fuel because 10-12 psi would never occur in closed loop where there are oscillations.

There is a rather complicated method where I can essentially tell the ecu that the engine is always at stoich. This method completely disables the ecus ability to trim fuel in favor of making the entire fuel map yourself. This can lead to a tune that runs great one day and crappy the next when atmospheric conditions change.

This is the nice thing about working second shift- 2:30 pm to 11pm, I stay up super late and tune when nobody is on the road. Goodnight.

 

Any time there numbers and knock generator, I am there to check it out. I know it goes with your thread about mega squirt but it just goes to show how complicated the ecu's are. Every car is similar if it has a knock sensor.

That would be cool. My sons are clear coating the Acura today to get it ready for the Atlanta show in a few months. The tuning will be next.

 

Toluene is not as bad as you would think. The government puts out info to scare the public and to toe people in line. I drive a truck and I can tell you if it was that bad they would not use it all the bolt factory's I go too. You can smell the Toluene and see open containers and breathing the vapors. That the least of the chemicals they use. Same for the paint stores.

 

I am going to buy some Berryman's B-12, That stuff works great and the ingredients are mostly brake cleaner, the same stuff I talk about at my stops in the post above. People dont understand that octane is only 1 thing and premium offers other advantages. Premium does not have excessive cleaners in it because it the saturated hydrocarbons that are the main reason to use it. Detergents cause knock so that would not be excessive and its the hydrocarbons that burn with a clean flame. ASH is cause by the burning of the detergents and that causes knock due to glowing and causing pre-ignition and then the ecu richen the Air fuel ratio causing bad mpg.


As far as a dog for Dee, check this one out it a border collie mix with out the hyper aspects of the border collie. Jack the Spaniel / Border Collie Mix | Dogs | Daily Puppy I think that what my dog is, shes 85 border collie and 15 percent English Springer Spaniel. She is not hyper but has the good things about both dogs.

 

Speaking of premium and knock..

I have been playing with spark plugs again... and it looks like a non-projected plug will go a long way in combatting knock.

This was something I played with in the Laser on a recommendation from a far more experienced tuner (during a discussion on plug indexing) and along with going 1 range colder than stock, I found that I can usually get away with a couple degrees more advance on a given/fuel boost under like atmospheric conditions.

I miss my old mitsu/hyundai G4EK rat motor. 10.0:1 compression 1.5 liter 4cyl, took all the abuse I could throw at it.. even untuned 35-50shots of spray and kept on chugging.

My new toys are too expensive to blow up on an experiment

 

Talking about the Hyundai I had to look up an old car my dad had, 1971 Volvo that had to use the 100 octane leaded fuel. That was 100 ron. When gas went to 89 or 94ron it would knock and run on. I just look up the compression and it was a 9.5 compression motor capably to rev to 7000 rpm. Thats probably where I got higher octane is better. If you think about it running 87 on a 10.4 compression, your relying on a knock sensor to save the motor. We added a multiply spark, and took out a few degrees of timing and still would knock and run on.

 

Been a while since I updated, been busy lately.

Anyways I want to look into ways of setting up a manual valvebody for the auto guys who want to have a more sporting Fit. Because this way you could lock full line pressure and no more of this slipping, soft shifting nonsense...

Does anyone with an auto want to chime in when/where the converter locks up? I am thinking about trying to find it and send it to Bender @ ATDSM in Michigan and see if he can find or make us something nicer.

So maybe one day AT Fit's will be able to drop in a new TC and stall up on your turbo at a dragstrip without worry..

There are at least two GE guys all of the sudden that I can think of who might benefit from this

 

Cant find the lockup or stall but it seems its variable like the timing.
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