When I initially installed all of my fender liner/splash shield components, I chalked up the loose clip fitment on the splash shield to the age of the car. However, after looking over parts diagrams, I realized that I was missing the front bumper air spoiler, so I went ahead and ordered the missing piece and got it on the car. Everything fits nice and snug now.

Here's a bottom view of the front bumper air spoiler installed on the car:



Here's a front view of the front bumper air spoiler installed on the car:



I've been experiencing an intermittent misfire on all four cylinders for a while now. It's not enough of an issue to throw a CEL, but I can feel it when the car is idling. I thought replacing the coil packs and spark plugs would do the trick, but that was not the case. My last valve adjustment was 40,000 miles ago, so it would be premature for the valve lash to be out of spec, but with nine track days thrown into the mix, I thought it was worth looking into. Valve lash was perfect all across the board, but the intake manifold and throttle body were rather dirty, so I cleaned those up. Only time will tell if that was the smoking gun. Since I was going to be checking the valve lash, I decided to remove the intake manifold entirely and replace the starter at the same time. I'm hoping I won't hear the starter grinding noise again for a long, long time. Of course, I also replaced the gaskets on the throttle body as well as the intake manifold.

P.S. Check out how clean everything looks under the valve cover considering this thing has over 200K miles.

 

A/C condenser needed to be replaced after discovering a puncture; at least the process was easy.

Here's a photo after I had removed the bumper and before the condenser was removed:



Old versus new condenser. The original condenser had obviously seen better days and was pretty knackered.



New condenser on and A/C system recharged; we are back to having a working A/C system.



I also replaced the MAP sensor and primary/secondary O2 sensors. Replacement NTK sensor on the left and original sensor on the right.



I also put on new tires front and rear. She's almost ready to hit the track again.

 

Hey Kevin, where did you buy your trans rebuild parts kit ? Looking to refresh mine and maybe drop in a MFactory LSD while I'm in there.

 

Hey Jason, I purchased the parts à la carte from a dealership. I don't think Honda offers these parts as a package/kit. My input shaft bearing was the culprit, but I decided to replace other components while the transmission was taken apart. To me, it costs less, both literally and figuratively, to pony up and replace the components now versus having to take everything back out and do it again because another bearing went bad six months down the line.

 

Ahh ok I'll hit my local dealership then, roughly how much did you end up spending for all the needed parts ? Also, where did you get your EXEDY HCK1006 clutch kit from ? Yours looks genuine, I'm afraid to buy one of the ones from Ebay with many people saying the ones there and on amazon are fake.

 

Only one part was needed, which was the input shaft bearing; everything else was optional and does not necessarily reflect what your transmission may/may not need. Dealership pricing is going to vary from dealer to dealer, especially considering our distance. If you're worried about a replica of the clutch kit, then I recommend ordering directly through Exedy to avoid any issues—it's $144. It's a no-brainer not to gamble with a third-party seller if receiving a replica clutch kit is a concern of yours, especially at that price point.

 

Aligned by Robert/Chewerks and ready for her first track day of 2023, this Sunday, 3/26.



My mounts from Cheddas Auto also arrived. I replaced the engine oil, PCV valve, and ran out of time after replacing the transmission mount.

My impressions on the transmission mount, only, after ~50 miles:
- Obvious increase in NVH—don't buy these mounts expecting them to be OEM replacements in that regard—though, I imagine most, if not all, people buying these mounts will understand

- Fitment is good. I didn't really have any issues here. I struggled to keep the bushing spacers on and install the transmission mount bracket over it, even with a second person helping. I spoke to Cheddas Auto about this and decided to slot my bushings to make for easier install over the bushing. This might not be necessary for your install, but it's an alternative solution if the mount bracket gives you trouble.

- Throttle response from just the transmission mount being swapped out alone is very noticeable. I had an OEM Honda mount in the car that was a year old before swapping to the Cheddas Auto mount (so it's not like I went from original mounts with hundreds of thousands of miles on them). The "lag" between shifting gears has been noticeably reduced. I'm able to shift, comfortably, at my pace without having to account for the delay from the stock mount.

- The car is putting more power down to the ground. I actually got the car to spin the wheels in second gear which has never happened before.

Also, I have my muffler off at the moment (removed to paint it and decided to leave it off for the upcoming track day this weekend). The mount makes the car sound rowdier and brings in some of the transmission noises into the cabin, which is something I personally enjoy.

Overall, I am very happy with just this one mount. I ran out of time yesterday to install the engine mount, but I'm hoping to get that one on before this Sunday. I might attempt the rear mount as well, but, from my understanding, it is rather difficult to replace without lowering of the subframe and I don't want to mess with my alignment settings since I just had the car aligned.

 

Unfortunately, I did not end up going any faster during my last track day. After 48K miles and ten track days, I think the coilovers are pretty tired. While they are not leaking, they simply do not feel as tight as they used to, so new coilovers are on the list for the future. Besides that, I swapped the original engine mount with a new OEM mount. The Cheddas Auto engine mount will not clear the bracket with the L15 engine. This is not an issue if you are doing a K swap, however, so for the meantime, I opted for an OEM replacement. The original mount pretty much fell apart in my hands after I removed it. Future plans include: new coilovers, installing the hood latches I have, and installing the Hardrace torsion beam bushings I have. Besides that, the car is pretty much done minus a K24 swap in the future.

 

@USDM Is engine mount replacement difficult? Do you know of a good YouTube video I could watch?

Thanks.

 

Hey, I didn't watch a video or anything—it's pretty straightforward. There's one nut that you'll need to remove from underneath the car and the rest are visible and easily accessible from the top of the engine bay. Also, if you have a 2013 Fit, your installation process might be a little different than mine.

 

I was wondering if you have to support the engine with a jack or something. Or do you just unbolt some bolts, and swap the old out and put in the new?

 

Yes, of course, you need to support the engine. Your engine mount holds the engine in place. I strongly recommend you purchase a repair manual of sorts before proceeding or take it to a shop that knows what they're doing.

 

Hi, when you upgraded your master cylinder did you re-flare your to lines while they were still on the car ? If so, what tools were used to account for the tight space ?

 

I bought spare lines and did the work outside of the car before installing them.

 

I just did mine, The back one is the worst. Having a double universal joint was the only reason I was able to finish the job. I have this one koken

 

What tools were used for the job ? The reason I'm soo curious is because the radius bend is very close to the fitting maybe 1 inch and a half, and there simply isn't enough line space to get a tool on it like this compact one

 

Yeah, the rear one is definitely the worst by far. GD Fits got the short end of the stick on that one.

 

I didn't re-flare the lines while they were on the car. I bought another set of lines, did the work outside of the car, and then installed the new-used, re-flared lines. Space was not an issue.

 

Which style tool of these 3 did you use for the job ?

 

Honestly, not sure. My friend did the actual work. I just provided the new lines. I would say probably closest to the first link you provided.