I like to give out good information and help others. Glad I could help because you have helped a lot on here with your inputs and SG data which helped me decide how to drive and experiment.


Rich - I would be in the same boat as you if I logged all my tanks as well. I just look at the average mpg as a relative guide on how far I have come because I know I use to get 36mpg daily at first.

 

Hi All,

I just took my 5-Speed MT Base fit on its first visit to the gas station.

I had 240.9 miles on the ODO and I put just a tad under 6.8 gallons in the tank for an MPG of 35.4. This was almost entirely "city" driving: lots of traffic lights, occasional short spells on traffic filled freeways, and a lot of waiting around at traffic lights. I drive mildly- nothing over 65, easy starts, shift at around 2500 RPM, with A/C on about 30% of the time- but I use no "Hypermiling" Techniques like drafting or turning off the engine at stoplights.

I'm pleased, but I think I can do better. I got 40ish MPG on my 94 MT Civic.

 

I'm going to be PO if my 600 pic looks this bad.
An honest +290 Miles to 1/2 tank fit

 

Just filled up tonight, got my best so far, 39.68 mpg.

 

52.1 mpg this time with 432.6 miles and 8.3 gallons to fill up. Gas was $3.57/gallon which is why I stopped before the gas light came on...........didn't wanna miss this price before it shot back up again.

I used A/C sparingly, cruise control and even drove the speed limit for short periods. The heat is killing me! It is suppose to be a wonderful 104 degrees here AGAIN today. Next week is suppose to be pure HELL!

 

Paul you will get 600miles at that rate because that is where I was. However, you will have to ride that gas light like it is going out of style

 

First fillup. 34.5mpg This car is swweeet.

 

still show 53mpg for the tank

 

My Fit has about 5300 miles on it now and I average 36.2 mpg. I only drive to and from work (3.5 miles one way, I also go home in my lunchbreak) grocery shopping (~10 miles one way) and longer distances twice a week (maybe 20 miles, mostly Interstate).
Is there a way to further improve my mileage? I usually don't use A/C, shift early and try to keep the windows closed. I'm amazed to see that some people get mileages in the 40's and 50's. You rock, guys!

 

YES

Start by reading everything in the scan gauge schooling thread then this thread. It's all in there. Ohh make sure you JUST read the notes from the users that have the cleanmpg image (like below on mine) with proven results of 40mpg or greater. The reason why is for every FE ECO advise note here from those that KNOW, there are 5 to 10 from users that are clueless about it and just come in here to disrupt that advise.

PS The few that that have taken MY advice, have greatly improved their FE
good luck

 

Thanks man. I started to read that thread, but only made it through the first few pages. Gotta read the rest when I have more time. People already think I get great mileage (I work at a Honda Dealership ans customers ask me about my car all the time) bu it would be nice to improve it even further. And my husband thinks I'm going too fast most of the time anyways. Won't hurt to slow down a bit

 

If you like my help/data, please add to my rep clicking on upper right button thanks

In the > 100 mile area the avg MT is 38 and the avg AT is 33 5mpg diff

 

Paul - Good going, keep it up!

Mela - Paul is correct he has helped me out a lot, more than he knows.

-The slower the better.
-Do you have an AT or Manual Tranny?
-Most of us drive below the speed limit and shift anywhere from 2k-2.5K(manual tranny).
-Turn the car off at long lights(longer than 12sec.)
-increase tire psig(that will be for you to decide how much is enough)
-FAS
-P&G

Thats it.............not as easy and simple as it seems, it has taken most of us 6months or more to get where we are and we are still trying to improve - WARNING - this crap becomes addictive - I am proof of it!

Also, most people suggest the aid of a Scan Gauge($150) to give you instant feed back on parameters that will aid in your mpg increase.

Also, take notice of our signatures refer to cleanmpg.com - that place is full of excellent info.


Oh, howdy neighbor, I am in Lexington, SC(outside of Columbia.) and welcome.

 

Hi!
I have a manual transmission (would never drive an Auto).
Below speed limit - that's gonna be hard
I'm already turning off the car when I'm waiting at the bank etc.
I'll have my car serviced next week and tell them to inflate the tires to the max How much psi is reasonable?

What is FAS and P&G? I have to admit I'm german and I have some difficulties with technical terms and acronyms
I'll read through cleanmpg, too!

Thank you neighbor! How far is Lexington from the Greenville area?

Oh, another thing. On my way to work there's a piece of road downhill and then a stop. Does it make sense to shift in neutral (engine running) and just let it roll to the stop? I ususally had it in gear, but found out in neutral the car is moving easier and you don't have to accelerate at all..

 

Well, start out by driving the speed limit and then slower and slower. I know driving the speed limit is hard. I use to get speeding tickets.

What kind of oil are you using? Most of us use synthetic and them some of us use synthetic 0w20(like me) whether or not that increases the mpg I am not sure of but I use it anyway.

Well, tire psig seems to be a touchy subject. With that said, I am only giving my experience and advice. I have gotten away with 51 psig(sidewall max) and so have several others on here. I am currently running 60psig(over side wall max) -

The pros: will yield increased traction, lower rolling resistance(better mpg) and supposedly longer tread wear(the pros on cleanmpg swear bye it - yet to be determined by me)

The cons: stiffer/harsher ride(feel all the bumps and cracks in the road) and MAY be more susceptible to tire punctures.


WARNING the below should be tried and practiced in a non-populated area with no cars around.
FAS - Force Auto Stop - turning your car off such that you are clocking mileage but not using fuel(infinite mpg) and coasting to a stop(like a stop light)

P&G - pulse and glide incorporates FAS on the glide part. The idea is to pulse up to a desired speed at a rate such that the glide down to the desired speed is beneficial and gives you a combined mpg higher than driving at the average speed of the P&G: pulse up to 50mph and glide down to 40mph and repeat. The key here is the pulse rate......too fast or too slow and you will not reap the benefits.

So, to answer your last question it would be to have the engine off. However, since this is new I would use neutral.

 

I didn't change my oil yet, so it's still what they put in in the factory. I want to switch to synthetic ASAP.
With the psi, I will problably go with the sidewall max for the beginning.
So, with FAS I would switch off the car completely - I understand that. Do I then turn the key into ACC position so I still have my break and steering assistant?

P&G sounds interesting, I actually do that already if possible. Just didn't know what it was called

Thanks for the answers to my stupid questions

 

As, a professor once told me, the only stupid question is the one not asked.

FAS:

There is no damage done when coasting with car off. Here is what you do:
1. Reach desired speed.
2. put car in neutral
3. let idle drop to 1000rpm
4. turn ignition key to off
5. let mph drop to 5mph or below
6. turn key to II position(do not start car) - All electrical accessories will work - yes power steering and brakes.
7. coast as far as desired.


TO RESTART CAR
1. push in clutch
2. put shifter in gear - at least the same gear or higher that you would be driving in
3. "pop clutch" - let out easy on the clutch(car will jerk slightly if done correctly)
4. drive


*Brakes - you can get 6 good pumps of the brakes when car is off and key is in the "II" position after that you must push HARD for the brakes to work.
*Power Steering - it will feel like no power steering for about 1 second and sometimes you will not loose the power steering at all. The loss of power steering for 1 second is followed by regaining the power steering.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND TRYING THIS IN A NON-POPULATED AREA FOR EXPERIMENTING WHERE THERE ARE NO CARS AROUND. IT DOES TAKE PRACTICE TO FIGURE OUT THE BEST WAY TO USE IT AND HOW TO DO IT RIGHT.........BE WARNED IT WILL BE COME ADDICTING ONCE YOU GET THE HANG OF IT

 

I thought shifting into neutral and coasting wasted fuel because you're engine needs to inject more fuel at idle to keep from stalling. So I thought it was best to coast in fifth gear down hills, until almost stopped. (At least until you're comfortable turning your engine off.)

 

There is always an exception to every rule or so it seems.

The DFCO I would recommend this in a situation in which you would not be coasting long at all and the slowing down would benefit you, say at a light. Again, that is only to an extent because the injectors start squirting at 1500rpms for the MT and I believe around 1100 for the AT.

To get the max FE you would ideally not use any fuel but if you are coasting in neutral you will not have the tranny slowing you down therefore, less resistance and you can coast further than in gear with DFCO. If you had a SG you could easily compare the two.

Paul posted somewhere the amount of fuel used by idling. I would search the SG schooling thread. It uses minimal fuel but it still uses fuel. DFCO will not get you very far and I do not use it. FAS and P&G FTMFW!

 

I'd have to see it to be sure.
How long?
what's the speed limit?
If in gear when you start down does it slow you too much?

If you can keep it in 5th or 4th gear and the speed is greater than 35 and less than 55, that would give the best results depending on the above 3 questions.

This will get you some engine braking as you go down hill, limit or slow the speed and best of all use ZERO fuel.

If the hill is not steep enough to use this and get to the bottom and a decent speed, do what Shawn said.