here is the new bumper design

 

ok so i been on the road with the sc for about 300 to 400 mile. i must say its hard to drive slow but the AEM FIC is crap on the street. the idle at rapid deceleration bounces? on a slow take-off it sort of stalls around 1500 to 2000rpm. i love the torque im getting now. if i drive without boosting my gas mileage is about the same.

i don't what spilled on the paper and sorry about the picture quality churches printer was out of ink anyways
lbft 199.8 mph 23 rpm 2379 afr 11.72 mph 58 rpm 5991

vacuum 0.00 mph 52 rpm 5390 boost 9.51 mph 59 rpm 6090

lbft 199.8 mph 23 rpm 2379 hp 188.7 mph 62 rpm 6400
yes the numbers are stupid low for a $5000 upgrade but im still running stock cats i later plan to delete cats, bigger throttle body, maybe intake, and some other stuff i can't remember

 

and next

 

F*&%ed up my bumper on a ramp, im just happy it happened before my new bumper lip

 

DMV mailed a letter stating that my car has recall #R87 (fuel ignition update) :/
i paid a visit to my local dealer and they said they will update my ecm with the sc installed :D
i feel that i would need to retune the car after the update so i'll try getting a 72mm throttle body and headers before the retune in May. so my focus is on the engine again but i have my bumper lip in place right where i like it


to start with the engine i relocated my battery to the trunk in place of the battery will be a box for my ecu's. sorry its not much of a diy but its pretty simple










i ran the 0 gauge wire under the interior step panels on the driver side although i recommend running it down the passenger side (more room for 0g but longer wire) and a tip for the backs seat there are 2 clips on the front of the REAR bottom seat that you have to unclip first then remove the 10mm bolt behind the rear bottom seat then you can remove the rear step panels

i ran the 0g wire through the firewall i think right where the factory clutch goes


i was able to us the stock battery bracket but its not threaded far enough down so i used a 1/2 copper coupler as a spacer and my amp fits nicely in front of the battery

as you can see im using a 91 group size battery our 35 group batteries are way too tall
i'll say total cost about $250ish
wood:7.99
fabric:6.99
battery:150 with hookup 105
0gauge wire 25ft:48.99

 

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/cali...et-cruise.html bring it to the meet

 

 

I mite go. I'm not sure if I'll have the money to spend on gas I know I wanna try getting my throttle body and headers before.

 

Even with a so-called "sealed" battery you are still in danger of fumes building up and causing an explosion of the explosive fumes released from battery charging by the altenator. You really didn't think that while charging the fumes created by the charging process just disappeared did you? Put the battery in a "sealed" box (they sell them at boat shops and "hot rod places like jegs etc.) that has vents that you can mount to the OUTSIDE of of the car body.

Do you think NHRA and other racing bodies specify a BUNCH of rules on mounting batteries in other than stock locations for the fun of it?

No they do it to help prevent explosive situations from fume buildups and catastrophic detonation of those fumes.

Forgot to add that those nasty fumes are also corrosive and when they build up in that closed space they will "EAT" any exposed metal ruining your your nice job of hiding it.

 

Its not my stock battery. I'm using a 91 group witch is found in trunks of bmw's and I think Ferrari's, Mercedes. The battery has a small hole for fumes witch uses a tube to carry gases out of the car. In extreme cases the battery can burst or explode usually do to over charging. Usually cause by a bad voltage regular.
If the battery does explode I highly doubt I'm going to loose my trunk lid lol

 

LOL laughing at possibly blowing up your car. ANY power source with mechanical connections (like your battery cables) has the potential to spark igniting the fumes collecting in the enclosed trunk space causing catastrophic damage.

Battery "bulging" from overcharging is not the same thing as a fume conflagration and mechanical explosion. Guess you have never seen one or you would know they are not even close in terms of damage.

How did you route these vents in your trunk they can't be seen in any of the photos?

Can't see why you are reluctant to make your conversion safe and joke about your car blowing up. It's relatively easy to buy a battery box and run the vents to the outside.

 

On top of that I have an amp in there with two running fans. I only plan to add a small vent for the amp. I believe the battery will be fine with the stock vent it comes with. I'm not going to act like I've seen and exploding battery or an explosion from battery fumes but understand it could possibly be deadly. I believe that the battery will vent most of the gas out of the car. As of right now I'm 3 days with zero vents and I will have the battery vent in today. The number one reason I moved the battery was to replace it with a box to protect the AEM FIC. also i know its not a big difference so don't give me shit but it also bumps me one step closer to 50/50 weight and lower center of gravity.

 

DUDE I didn't "give you shit" because you did it I "gave you safety advice" to prevent you from blowing up your car. It's a good thing to do "IF YOU DO IT SAFELY" and I have done it many times that is why I know so much about it.

If you do it CORRECTLY there is nothing wrong with doing it and can gain you space in the engine bay.

The problem you are having is confining the fumes under that deck there is no place for the fumes to escape to the atmosphere like under the hood where air is FLOWING removing the fumes.

And you have Amps in the trunk with fans................ you do realize that unless they are "mine" rated (under ground holes not the blow up ones) EVERY TIME THE FANS KICK ON OR THE AMP TURNS ON THERE ARE SPARKS CREATED.......... THINK ABOUT THAT FOR A MOMENT.......... THERE IS YOUR TRUNK FILLING UP WITH EXPLOSIVE FUMES AND YOU HAVE JUST PROVIDED THE SPARK TO CAUSE AN EXPLOSION.

It's cheap and easy to put the battery in a box and vent the box OUTSIDE THE CAR.

I know I wouldn't get into a car with your setup the way it is now.

 

Just found this photo in the horn thread. Note that a "SEALED" battery still comes with warning about explosive gases.

 

For now I'm using the stock vents. I'm still trying to figure out how to run vents to extract gases

and the other side gets a cap

 

If that hose is the stock vent for your battery and is going through the floor to the outside that will be enough to work fine that way. Carry on.

 

So much win in this thread!

 

I started back on the mustang cuz now all of the parts came in. And I had an emergency 328 cylinder head replacement. as for the honda the header/test pipe came in super f&$@£ing LOAD!! (Any rpm above 2500) so I've been searching for a solution and I found a stock exhaust muffler for a ford f-250 that will fit in my car but before I bye it i want to know what you guys think???
It's made for a v8 so I assume it will have plenty of flow?
Or should I just get rid of the header if I want it quitter exhaust cuz the muffler counteracts the header?

 

So I bought the f250 muffler. It doesn't sound good but its atleast drivable. now i can get back on to the body work. I also ran a test, 2008 sedan mpg is 21mpg with an 18.5gallon tank. It's not conlusive but from an empty tank I put in 16.5 to 17 gallons reset my trip meter and I hit 410 miles (I think I had gas for another 5 miles). Now these miles are 97% city and three 1/8 mile races. With 17 gallon tank at 410miles that's 24mpg city. So I'm getting around 51miles or 2 1/2 gallons extra for each full tank. My average mite look more like 23mpg +34miles + 1 5/8 gallon.