There is something about the physics of Forza that bothers me. And I just don't like the controls for the 360 (particularly the control), but that is me just being a whiny bitch lol.

 

LOL, its all good. I dig how the suspension pretty much reacts smoothly and realistically as you accelerate or deceleration; especially mid-drift. Maybe you should try Forza with a USB steering wheel.

With the right set up (on Forza 3) you could smoothly initiate and transition if you knew what you were doing, on GT4 I always spun out during transitions because I couldn't read the car's body roll and the rear just shoots out before I counter steer. lol

 

I like Forza because adjusting the camber makes a huge difference lol

 

^^ That and you can give yourself motion sickness in certain high speed turns with the right set up. Example on Forza 1: Drifting the entire Tomcat autocross course with a 673 BHP '03 350Z on slicks. haha

 

lololol

I suck at drifting so much.

I always add way too much power or way too much grip.

But I can setup a small FF hatch like no other.

 

Dude, I own face at drifting! At least at other people's houses since I can't get XBOX Live. lol I also suck with wrong wheel drive cars on Forza, I've never really been good even with my DC2 ITR set up specifically for class C (Index # 425 I think) with a 225/205 front/rear stagger.

But back to drifting.. The rear toe, front & rear camber, suspension's spring rate & rear damper's bound are pretty much key (to me at least).

I prefer the rear toe'd in a bit which typically keeps the rear end in check when driving straight and stable while sideways (depending on throttle input of course). Front camber I stick with about -1.8 to -2.3 depending on car & caster, rear I use about -1.2 to -1.5.

As for spring rate, what I've noticed is that having the rear springs approximately 100 to 250 lbs softer than default or fronts 100 to 250 lbs stiffer than default will give enough understeer to were you must on the throttle to flick the rear out but still be able to maintain the slide on bumpy surfaces like dirt or rumble strips. Having the bound about 1 to 2 less than default (or whatever I'm setting up for in drifting) doesn't allow the car's rear to shoot out nearly as fast due to the shock not wanting to force the tire from not compressing as much.

 

the customization of forza is awesome. but it just never felt right to me. GT will always have that special feeling. it feels the best to me. oh, and obviously the cars look 10x better.

ff and awd are too easy. even with TC, ABS, and all the driver assists off. FR is where its at. more of a challenge, both in GT and Forza

i like to thing im pretty good at setting up cars for drifting. i practice more especially now that they added a drift/score mode on gt5

 

Really? To me Forza was a step closer to what I've been dying to do in Gran Turismo. Things like engine swaps and drivetrain conversions are what I've been craving for in the GT series before Forza came.

Ever convert a DC2 or DC5 to RWD, gut it, do a bit of suspension work to it and run it? They are one of the best handling cars under 25k in the game that you can convert to RWD in my honest opinion. I have 3 as drift cars. LOL A RSX, DC5 ITR, and a DC2 ITR, all of which are around 50/50 weight distribution and are nimble little machines.

 

Ahh, see I set up my drift cars like my Fit, Yaris and Citroen C1.

-3.5* camber up front
-1 or -1.5* camber out back
Same spring rates all around
Tyres 20-30mm wider up front
Racing compound.
Default everything else.

Handles perfectly.

 

Yeah, I see the problem right there. Too much front camber for RWD and reverse staggers don't do RWD any justice at all since the rear tires won't get enough grip to put the power down while cornering, resulting in a tail happy car.

Take the E92 (the current, V8 model) M3 for example.

I run 255/40R18s up front and 295/35R18s in rear with slicks for timed runs and the sports (step down from slicks) for drifting. My timed setup goes as the following...

993.5 lb/in front and 971.0 lb/in rear, ride height at 4.0 inches all around

28.2mm front sway bar with 23.1 in the rear

full diff set at 75% both ways with the default dampening (maybe rear bound softened by 1)

-1.8* front camber with rear camber at -1.4* and caster set between -3.2* to -3.5*

Toe set to 0 in front, -0.1 in rear which makes the car favor launching straight from a dig and reduces wander at speed.

Brakes set at 49% bias with 125% force, 4.28s as final drive gear (factory gear ratios for transmission).

Gut the car and cage it without touching anything engine wise and its a nice little track car. Add a bit of downforce to the equation and get around 540 BHP, its a friggin' riot to drive.

 

I wonder how that'd transfer over to an AE86.

That's my current drift car, or an SC430...which is my backup drifter.

 

I'm not sure, haven't tinkered with an 86 in a while. Though I did notice that once I went past the 250BHP (NA) mark things got a bit too lively for me because I think they max out with 225s front and rear if I remember right.

Don't take my word for it though, car setups vary with driving styles and habits.

 

I also just noticed that my time attack M3's current state is ridiculously similar to that of the M3 GTS. Might try to take a few shots of it some how.

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...t_drive_review

 

Sorry to bust up all the drifting convo, but you know what I don't like about my Fit? The way the gas gauge is all wonky - I always think I'm gonna get a great tank because it doesn't show any change until I've traveled like 35 or 40 miles after fill up, right? And then the first half tank stays high mileage, but then after that, the tank goes down faster than the miles add up, and I end up with about 26 mpg at the end. I wish it would just show consistently what is in the tank! I've never had a car with this kind of weird gas gauge.

Also, my mileage went down about 3 mpg or more after I got the new tires. I can't imagine new tread would do that...I checked the air filter and it's still clean, should I change it anyway? I thought if I needed to change it, it would look dirty, but it's been really dusty here in Houston b/c of the drought. Help please?

 

Its all good, my fuel gauge shares some of the same characteristics as your's. It moves usually around the 40 to 50 mile mark driving normal. If driving conservatively (which is rare ), it'll move around the 55 to 70 mile mark.

Another variable is where you get your fuel; not all stations have the same "blend" for octanes. Station A could have one blend that yields good engine performance and gas mileage for *insert blend*, station B could have a crappy blend that gives poor mileage and engine performance even if you used the same octane rating as "station A".

That's another thing I noticed, but its normal. You have to remember, you're coming from a set of tires with wear on it to a new set of tires. So you'll of course have more weight theoretically speaking (due to more tread) and a taller tire (due to no wear) compared to the old tires (which are smaller in diameter due to having wear) despite being the same tire size.

 

Thanks, Hootie. What about the air filter? Should I change it every X number of miles even if it's still pure white and no sign of visible dirt?

 

Before replacing, I'd check both the top (which is white if I remember right on OEMs) and the bottom (which is green). Usually the tops of air filters look almost mint on the vehicles I service at work, until I take them out and visually inspect the underside of them then you can really assess their condition.

The reason being is that the factory air box on most vehicles (like our GDs) take in air from a tube that forces air to go from the bottom of the filter (which can't be seen with the air box cover off) to the top of the filter (which can be seen) and from there the air flows from the tube connected to the air box cover into the throttle body, then intake manifold, etc.

Generally speaking I recommend to my customers at work that engine air filters be replaced either once a year or 15,000 miles, whichever is first. If the filter is heavily soiled with dirt and other crud replace it before than interval I'd replace it. The same goes with the cabin air filter behind the glove box.

 

this is what my math book deserves trololol



happpyyyyy Friday

 

Dead thread is dead.

 

[/just farted]