Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU TuningReference Library for Engine Modifications, Swaps and Tuning
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Once you start on the wiring please please document everything for us please please please
Will do! BUT there is a slight chance that Brian from Hasport will be helping me out on the wiring as a mutual interest thingy, and thus I might not be doing the wiring... BUT if that falls through, then you will see what I do!
Today I will try to start on engine bay prepping, at the least I will be removig the two wiring harnesses today and looking them over!
I've got the RSX shifter box and the EP3 idler pulley bracket/pulley assy, and the A/c suction line from the EP3 to custom fit better in the FIt! These items are ALL ON Order and ALL ON THE WAY!
**update** you also hve to move the ABS Hudraulic control Unit or Modulator so that it does not interfere with the pulley or belt. Just a slight maneuver and repositioning of the bracket!
If I were ever to do this on my car, I would need to hire somebody.. I dunno about any of that crap.. I just change the oil and mod it.. I kinda know how it works but not enough to tear it aparat and such..
BTW -- I can't wait to see this monster ROAR!!
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If it moves, try to race it. If not try to eat it.
After 8 hours of hard work and prepping the engine bay and prepping the motor to be test fitted so that I knew that the chassis modifications were adequate, THE ENGINE IS SITTING PROPERLY IN THE ENGINE BAY!!!!!
It does have to come back out, but at least I''ve crammed it in there and I can do it again!
Here she is getting ready for me to work on her!
Here is the Fab work:
Took off manifolds as to not have it complicate maneuvering the engine around in the bay, (And not to break sensors).
Moved brake lines off of those white clips and carefully bent them out of the way up onto the frame rail.
Cut the Radiator supprt in order for the intake manifold to clear!
Modify passenger engine mount:
Modify Drivers side frame rail to clear transmission case.
And cut the drivers side mount a bit to clear as well.
Start putting the engine in!
Watch out for the T-case and the drain plug on the rear sub frame!
How we positioned it using an engine hoist (cherry picker)
Drivers side Transmission mount and bracket (got lazy didn't put in the rear, Pretty sure it should fit!)
Passenger side Engine mount bracket:
There it is test fitting done, Now it's time to take it out again and put in a new clutch and do the wiring and the header and axles!
oh God!!! I need to come over to see how's it look like!!! Hopefully you will be done by this project before the meet.
**Actually who with you in this 8 hours work???
Mo and another buddy of mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Man just seeing that K20 in the Fit is just crazy... .... very nice... and good luck with the rest of the install
THanks! I have to take it back out today and put in a new clutch and flywheel, wire up things, put on the intake manifold, and then finally test fit a header. SO another 2-3 weeks and maybe I'll be driving her!
dude i think you should really really box in that knotch that you had to cut out to add some strength back to the frame rail. and clean up your cuts a little bit, they look nasty.
The Frame rail is a very diesel double wall spotwelded material. I will clean up burrs and shards and spray them to prevent rusting, but that's enough.
Manifolds and cams are slightly different. The K20Z1 in the newer Rsx type S makes a couple of Hp more, but only by like 3-5.
Fit Hondata K-Pro I will overcome the lose ten fold! Probably go from 175 to the wheels to 205 to the wheels!
***Update** THe K20 is Out again, Installing New clutch and Flywheel and harness and shifter and custom cable throttle. Comming soon!
Nice Job on the install, but the info about the K20Z1 vs. K20A2 is a bit off.
The K20Z1 makes about 10 more wheel hp stock than a K20A2. The K20Z1 uses PRC Type R Cams and once mods get into the picture... really shines over the K20A2. If you check ClubRSX just bolt ons, Intake, Raceheader, Exhaust the K20Z1 05+ RSX-S's are making 200-205 whp. The K20A2 making around 190 whp with the same mods.
Another big advantage the K20Z1 has over the K20A2 is the addition of carbon synchros and the JDM Type R Final Drive, which comes in at 4.77. The Final drive makes a HUGE difference. If both the K20Z1 and K20A2 were to be modded to equal hp, the K20Z1 will pull hard on the K20A2 due to the final drive, its been proven on ClubRSX.
The Frame rail is a very diesel double wall spotwelded material. I will clean up burrs and shards and spray them to prevent rusting, but that's enough.
You are adding 100LB. and about 100HP to the car. You should box in the frame for sure...
.... very nice... and good luck with the rest of the install
Holy Smokes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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