UPDATE: Went back in this morning. I identified that the connector to the harness had some bent pins, so they weren't lining up together. I realigned them and was able to get the radio to turn on and function correctly, however I am still not getting anything from the switch on the steering wheel other than illumination.

Also, I forgot to mention that I have a 2011 Sport with paddles.

-marty
san francisco, ca

 

Another addition to this old but very useful thread: I just did my button install (successfully, thanks to this thread and the YouTube video put together by "Radio Citrus Podcast") on my 2009 Fit Sport!

However, I'm running an aftermarket head unit (Kenwood DMX-9706S) so I require an aftermarket SWI to make this work. I used the iDatalink Maestro SW, and because I was swapping ONLY the radio buttons (not the talk/back buttons under the left spoke), I only connected the two wires I ran off the back of the clockspring to the Maestro SW box. Their install instructions tell you to connect three wires: 2 to the main radio harness (Connector A) and one to a second Radio Harness (Connector B). In looking at various pinout descriptions and wire diagrams, I assumed the Connector B was for the Nav/Bluetooth from the factory- something my car doesn't have.

Either way, the jumper harness I created off the back of the clockspring was connected directly to the Maestro SW: the Pink (clockspring pin 8 to car harness pin 16) wire went to the Purple/Red wire of the Maestro SW, and the White (clockspring pin 7 to car harness pin 5) wire went to the Black/White wire of the Maestro SW. Then I used posi-taps to connect the Maestro SW's accessory (red) and ground (black) wires to the Metra 70-1729 install harness' Accessory and Ground wires (before the splices to the Kenwood harness). Everything worked as expected with no worries about how to get the pins for the car-side radio harness (pins 5 and 16 on Connector A).

I'm not sure how much difference there would be with the Axxess or PAC steering wheel interfaces, so I can't/won't comment on them. But I can state that running the jumper you added to the back of the clockspring directly to the Maestro SW works great.

 

Sorry, i couldn't see a single picture you uploaded they just won't open, and without them is very difficult to understand a thing can you upload it again?

 

My GE8 Sport manual has the radio stolen out of it and they cut the connectors. So I got a PaP radio and connector. I do have a gray, white, and pink wire from the harness that don't match up to the non sport connector.

I'm guessing I just need to crimp a pin and put it in the right slot. Does anyone know what the original wiring colors are for the Sport Steering wheel factory controls

 

I'm wondering if there's someone in the Bay area CA (San Jose) that could help me to do this on mi Fit.?

 

Hi,

Similar to vhmike73, I did this install (on a '13 base Fit) alongside an aftermarket head unit (Sony XAV-AX5000) with the help of the Axxess ASWC-1. The project was a success, and I feel indebted to everyone in this thread + Radio Citrus's video.

In hindsight, I'm not sure that a SWC module is even required for this Sony head unit, as the wire harness that came with it included a wire for "wired remote." From all my reading, and the installation process, I suspect one could run the wire from clockspring pin 8 directly to the aforementioned wire in the Sony harness, clockspring pin 7 to a ground, and program the buttons within the radio's settings menu from there. I have not tested this myself, so this is just conjecture on my part.However because I relied on the ASWC-1, its connection to the radio was made via a different input (a 3.5mm jack, also titled wired remote) rather than the aforementioned wire.

I briefly considered running clockspring wires 7 & 8 all the way to the factory radio harness pins 5 & 16 (which would have been redundant due to my SWC module + third party head unit), and picked up an old harness from a salvage yard to practice for this. However much like FitG8Guy, I had a hard time understanding how to manipulate the factory harness's black tab and remove pins coherently. Eventually I decided it was a waste of time, as I was going to run my wires to the ASWC-1 anyway.

Initially I grabbed a 3-spoke 09 Civic wheel from a yard for its audio controls + novel leather wrap and finger "grooves" at the "10 & 2" positions ('05-'11 Civics have applicable wheels btw). I overlooked losichu's comment about their airbag mount holes needing to be lengthened, and don't have the tools for that, so that wheel was a wash sadly. So I took its audio controls for my Fit's native wheel-clockspring harness, and used the Civic's remaining harness for pin-removal. Btw I used posi-taps when splicing wires within the wheel harness.

By the time I had merged the Civic's audio controls with my original Fit wheel, the local salvage yard receive an '11 Fit Sport that I just had to check out. The '11 did not have audio controls (? Would have expected otherwise by that year...), but it did have a leather-wrapped wheel! In my endless quest to be taken seriously, I took the wheel home, to swap in my newly prepped wheel harness. The '11's wheel also had paddles, however my car is a manual. Thankfully, I found that the wire harnesses could be swapped entirely between the two wheels, thus also removing the paddles and allowing my original wheel's black plastic cover to go on in their place. FYI.

Btw I also installed a backup camera alongside all of this. There's some contention about where their power should be derived from: Some people insist on giving them their own direct line to aux power (red) from the front, while others relegate them to reverse lights' wires for simplicity + lower wear/usage. For reference, I went with the latter option, which appears to work just fine for my respective + radio setup. It does mean that I can't view it when I am not in reverse, and modifying the backup guidelines is a bit more involved. Just putting this out there for anyone considering making similar moves.

Thanks to everyone for their input over the years. This is a wonderful QoL upgrade for base Fits.

 

Sorry to resurrect this from the grave but i recently purchase a 2011 sport and am interested in adding controls. This mod seems daunting especially with the photos no longer being available but after reading all the comments, the diy in full and watching the video, I’m mostly confident in attempting this. I do have one question though. In the video, he uses a jumper adapter cable from the radio harness to the radio. He then ran the long cable from the clock spring and and inserted the pins into the jumper adapter cable. My question is, can’t I just insert the long cable from the clock spring to the OEM radio harness? This would essentially skip me having to build the jumper adapter cable which is gonna be about $34 currently on Amazon. What am I missing here? Seems like you should be able to insert the pins directly into the back of the OEM wire harness

 

yeah it’s a slam dunk
takes a few hours , but nothing is hard
there’s an extra pin on clock spring

the pac swiRC is learnable , I liked that for custom buttons

 

Well I was finally able to complete this mod. I had to do a lot of research, so make sure you do yours. In my case I am using an aftermarket unit, Kenwood DMX7709s along with a Crux SWRHN-62L kit that I purchased from Crutchfield. As for the SWC, I got one from my local salvage yard from a Honda Civic and just tapped it into the cruise control switch and pinned the other two wires to the harness that connects to the clock spring. You can see all that information on this youtube link




Some pictures of the SWC install.



Making sure my wires are going to reach


Wiring done.

Steering wheel back on

Airbag back on

Now these pictures are showing the top harness from behind the steering wheel. These are the wires that you run to your radio.


The green (switch) and black (ground) wires coming out of the harness.

Taped up the wires before running them through the dash.

Here I am making sure I am getting the correct total resistance when buttons are not pressed.

These are the resistance values you should be seeing when you press the buttons.



Here is a little diagram I drew to show you how I connected it.
Pin 7 from behind the steering wheel harness to Pin 5 of the radio harness
Pin 8 from behind the steering wheel harness to Pin 16 of the radio harness
Just to clarify, the view on these harnesses is from the wire going in side.




In the picture below, you can see the red and green wires that I pinned into spot 5 and 16 of the OEM radio harness. These were the colored wires I was able to salvage from an extra OEM radio harness I had laying around. So I connected green with my green wire and the red with my black.



You really don't have to pin it to the OEM radio harness, you can literally tap in to these two wires below of the Crux SWRHN-62l harness. The only reason I did it, was to facilitate the removal of the radio, if I ever need to.

Black is your ground, which would be wire number 5 on the top row if you count from the right side, and pink will be your switch signal which would be wire number 4 on the bottom row, if you count from the right side as well. As you can see, both these wires connect directly to the Crux Module.


That's pretty much it, if you guys have any questions, feel free to shoot me a message.