Waxing Your New FIT, questions,techniques,products
this is one of the common misconceptions about new cars and waxing. Although the paint processing technology has far surpassed the earlier days, these newer paints still are not immune to oxidation. These new paints still need to be protected, and are not maintenance-free as some dealers claim. Therefor waxing your car is a good thing. New or old, it still makes the paint look better while protecting at the same time. Now the choice is what kind of wax, carnauba or synthetic?
Hope that helps
Hope that helps
Yeah, you can wax your car as soon as you get it from the dealer. I mean sometimes the dealer will already wash and wax it prior to the sale depending on the dealer etc. I do a full wax when the water beading stops. I usually only wax the front bumper area and the mirrors and the rest of the car still has a good coat of wax on it.
That whole thing comes from places that spray cars and can't bake the paint to the temps that a new car plant can. And what happens is the paint still needs to cure over time, and if you put a wax on it, it can't happen. I waxed my g35 the first weekend I had the car, but when some dumbass ran a yeild and blindsided me the parts of the car that were blended and re-sprayed needed to cure for a month or so before I put a wax on them.
Take your baby home and wax her up. I will clay and wax mine when I get it in april.
Take your baby home and wax her up. I will clay and wax mine when I get it in april.
Thanks so much for this thread guy's! It's a big help to a detailing n00b like myself.
Are there any links or resources on the many techniques and procedures involved in really detailing your vehicle (specifically a new Fit)?
Thanks for your time
Are there any links or resources on the many techniques and procedures involved in really detailing your vehicle (specifically a new Fit)?
Thanks for your time
i use zaino products, have the whole line. on their website, they have instructions for each of their products, as well as a general detailing tutorial. i have also seen somewhere video tutorials. do a search.
Zaino Store
Zaino Store
One more time with the Pig Snot
I am ready for my first wax job since receiving my VBP a month and a half ago. Nobody here has commented on PIG SNOT brand wax, and I have some for my bike, so I am gonna give it a try. I am betting that anyone here who has tried it, likes it. I paid about $15 for it awhile back, and it does a wonderful job on my black motorcycle (which is being neglected, damn me and my new car).
I will let you know what it be lookin like.
I will let you know what it be lookin like.
Yeah my bad. LOL How could I have messed that one up?
Last edited by smeister; Apr 18, 2007 at 09:09 PM.
SratchX is not a wax, so you do not wait for it to dry. You just keep rubbing until all the "diminishing abrasives" break down, wipe it off immediately and do it again. ScratchX is mild and will take you a long while to remove all the clearcoat, so dont worry. It is a consumer product, and yes it can remove very fine scratchs and swirls. I do not recommend rubbing compounds, unless you know what you are doing.
I've used Meguire's wax for years after a friend who restores Jaguars recommended it. On my Fit I also use their car wash, detailing spray (gets bugs off better than stuff made specifically for bug removal) and their interior protectant. The wax doesn't take off deeper scratches. My Fit got a nasty one on the rear bumper a few weeks ago that looks like deliberate vandalism and nothing works. I have touchup paint, but the scratch is so narrow I'm afraid the coverup will look obvious.
I was really ticked off when someone stuck two leaflets in my driver's side window and they went down inside the door. Got two estimates on having the door panel popped out to remove them -- $35 and $46.50. It rained so I'm guessing the paper turned to mush. There's a moisture barrier inside the door and I understand it's tricky to clean out the mess without ruining the barrier lining. I hope the leaflets are in good enough shape so I can contact the company who put them there and tell them to keep their hands off my Fit!
I was really ticked off when someone stuck two leaflets in my driver's side window and they went down inside the door. Got two estimates on having the door panel popped out to remove them -- $35 and $46.50. It rained so I'm guessing the paper turned to mush. There's a moisture barrier inside the door and I understand it's tricky to clean out the mess without ruining the barrier lining. I hope the leaflets are in good enough shape so I can contact the company who put them there and tell them to keep their hands off my Fit!
generally what you're suppose to do is wash the car, clay bar it, rubbing compound or polish to resurface the paint, and then wax
it's highly recommended to use an electric buffer to apply rubbing compound, cuz if u do it by hand you'll be there forever, and wax you can apply by hand or buff into the surface but i personally prefer to do it by hand (no particular reason)
it's highly recommended to use an electric buffer to apply rubbing compound, cuz if u do it by hand you'll be there forever, and wax you can apply by hand or buff into the surface but i personally prefer to do it by hand (no particular reason)
depends on what the condition of your paint is/ what you want to do.
washing washes off the dirt,
claybaring strips the impurities missed by normal washing,
a polish is a slightly abrasive compound that will smooth out imperfections in the paint (minor scratches, etc).
and a wax protects the paint from getting damaged.
i haven't polished my car yet, but you definately need to wax it if you clay bar...you won't have any protection after claybar.
FYI my first detail went like this:
wash w/ dawn
claybar
wash w/ clearcoat safe wash
wax
"shine enhancer"
wax
"shine enhancer"
wax
"shine enhancer"
"finish gloss enhancer"
"sealer"
sounds like a lot, but it only took about 6 hours, and the car looks like a million bucks and is protected for 6 months.
washing washes off the dirt,
claybaring strips the impurities missed by normal washing,
a polish is a slightly abrasive compound that will smooth out imperfections in the paint (minor scratches, etc).
and a wax protects the paint from getting damaged.
i haven't polished my car yet, but you definately need to wax it if you clay bar...you won't have any protection after claybar.
FYI my first detail went like this:
wash w/ dawn
claybar
wash w/ clearcoat safe wash
wax
"shine enhancer"
wax
"shine enhancer"
wax
"shine enhancer"
"finish gloss enhancer"
"sealer"
sounds like a lot, but it only took about 6 hours, and the car looks like a million bucks and is protected for 6 months.
depends on what the condition of your paint is/ what you want to do.
washing washes off the dirt,
claybaring strips the impurities missed by normal washing,
a polish is a slightly abrasive compound that will smooth out imperfections in the paint (minor scratches, etc).
and a wax protects the paint from getting damaged.
i haven't polished my car yet, but you definately need to wax it if you clay bar...you won't have any protection after claybar.
FYI my first detail went like this:
wash w/ dawn
claybar
wash w/ clearcoat safe wash
wax
"shine enhancer"
wax
"shine enhancer"
wax
"shine enhancer"
"finish gloss enhancer"
"sealer"
sounds like a lot, but it only took about 6 hours, and the car looks like a million bucks and is protected for 6 months.
washing washes off the dirt,
claybaring strips the impurities missed by normal washing,
a polish is a slightly abrasive compound that will smooth out imperfections in the paint (minor scratches, etc).
and a wax protects the paint from getting damaged.
i haven't polished my car yet, but you definately need to wax it if you clay bar...you won't have any protection after claybar.
FYI my first detail went like this:
wash w/ dawn
claybar
wash w/ clearcoat safe wash
wax
"shine enhancer"
wax
"shine enhancer"
wax
"shine enhancer"
"finish gloss enhancer"
"sealer"
sounds like a lot, but it only took about 6 hours, and the car looks like a million bucks and is protected for 6 months.
But it was theraputic!!!
+
I've never really washed, clayed, or waxed a car before. I didn't even know about claying till I started reading these forums! Can anyone give me some tips for doing this? I know it shouldn't be too hot or sunny so everything doesn't dry too fast, and I know to do small sections of the car at a time, but is there anything else I should know? Should wax be applied in circles or straight lines, and should I wipe it off right away, or let it dry first? I have the bottle of wax that comes with the Meguiar's clay kit.
I'm actually a little scared to do this because the car still looks pretty good and I don't want to mess it up!
I'm actually a little scared to do this because the car still looks pretty good and I don't want to mess it up!
Last edited by LizardKing; May 10, 2007 at 11:22 AM.
I've never really washed, clayed, or waxed a car before. I didn't even know about claying till I started reading these forums! Can anyone give me some tips for doing this? I know it shouldn't be too hot or sunny so everything doesn't dry too fast, and I know to do small sections of the car at a time, but is there anything else I should know? Should wax be applied in circles or straight lines, and should I wipe it off right away, or let it dry first? I have the bottle of wax that comes with the Meguiar's clay kit.
I'm actually a little scared to do this because the car still looks pretty good and I don't want to mess it up!
I'm actually a little scared to do this because the car still looks pretty good and I don't want to mess it up!
"dawn" washing the car (washing your car with dawn dishwashing soap strips away all buildup of wax already on your car--"dawn" wash your car very seldom, like only when you wax it, which shouldn't be often if you use good stuff)
using a lubricating spray (mine was a 1/2 capfull of soap in a full spray bottle, generously spray a section of your fit. place the claybar in the palm of your hand and rub it with medium pressure along the surface of the fit. continue to keep the fit wet, you'll know if it isn't because the clay bar will stick. remember to knead and turn the claybar periodically to expose clean claybar--you don't want to pick up brake dust and then continue to rub it on the car...also, if you drop the bar, it's toast, wasted bar...it happens, trust me, so have at least one extra claybar just in case.
after a few passes in a section, you should be able to equate the surface of the fit to a piece of silky glass--smooth as hell. you have finished that section, continue with the whole car.
i didn't worry about rinsing sections because i planned to wash the car as soon as i was done.
again, remember that you have stripped the car of everything above the clearcoat, you gotta wax it ASAP.
claybarring goes pretty quick, but the warmer the surface of the car is, the quicker the lubricating solution dries, which just means using more of it, it won't hurt the process to do it in the sun.




