It will probably be something a company will offer in years to come but right now there isn't enough demand for it, plus there is a lot more to the wiring of a k swap fit then other chasis cars. The fit has one engine bay harness, where as a k car has an engine and charge harness, so you have to intagrade the three, and there are two ways of doing it, one without drive by wire system and with, its not as simple as using an adaptor harness like one from hybrid, it can be used, but three times the wiring is involved hench why most ppl have them custom made.

 

i just spent the last 2 days readin thru the thread on and off. very interesting information learned alot. well anyways i found a complete k20a3 swap for 700.00 bucks im really leaning towards it. im not lookin to have a monster. i have a family so im not the racer type anymore just lookin into a lil more power. what yall think. anywhere i can get an exact price list for the mounts kpro harness etc.

 

i know this is an old post so my apoligies but i am newer to all this stuff so you mad have to break it down a little more then usual but i had a couple questions
did you complete the swap?
hows it run?
how expensive was the complete swap?
how hard is it to do a couplete swap?
was it worth it?
and just in case i don't see this thread again can you pm me? thanks bud

 

Anyone used the Has Sport GD mounts on a GE8??. I have everything to get started on my swap.

 

So where is everyone getting there k engine and trans from?

Hybrid racing ?

 

Specializing in JDM-USDM engines and parts...

 

an odd question that i can't seem to find an answer to anywhere:

what are the physical dimensions of the k20/k24 long block? (height from oil pan to top of heads, width from pulley to beginning of trans)


or any leads are appreciated!

 

K24a2 is 25.5" tall and 20" long
k20a2 is 24.75" tall and 20" long

These measurements are on a bare block from machined trans side to chain cover.

 

thank you sir!

i was amazing how difficult it was to find that out...

 

It's funny in my old spoon catalog it has an exact break down of the dimensions of the k, b, and f, however I cant find that book.

K20a.org had those measurements hidden.

 

irritates me... why have information hidden? isn't that what forums are for?

meh whatever... i'm trying to see if a k20 would fit into a factory five 818 instead of the ej20/25...

the motor itself is a good deal longer, so unless the axles are farther forward in the trans it's a no-go...

 

I thought the idea behind the 818 was to keep a really low center of gravity for and ideal balance hence the boxster engine?

 

yeah it is... i was just exploring more exciting ways to do n/a power...

 

Been following the forums on and off again for quite sometime. Been going back and forth between turbo or k swap. Just wondering is there a solution for the piggyback of the FIT ECU and the K ECU now that Flashpro is available?

 

I have actually been curious of this as well. Can one swap a k in and just run flashpro to tune it rather than using a k ecu?

 

I know you have to use the k series ecu regardless. I also know you need to run the fit ecu if your running the stock dash/gauges. So one ecu to run engine management and one to run stock gauges. Now that flash pro is out i wonder if both is needed for the swap?

 

I have been doing some research into this swap recently and have been wondering if it would be just as much hassle to use an entire EP3 (if using K20A2 for example) vehicle loom as it would to try and modify one harness into another.

I am intending to buy a complete EP3 to do this swap, integrating as much of the donor as possible. If a whole new wiring system (from the EP) was run through the car, would it not be almost simpler in some ways? Run the EP loom throughout, with, for example, the GD3 light pigtails spliced into it.

My GD3 is a sunroof model, so I expect I may have to run a couple of small separate circuits parallel to the EP harness; but I feel that as I am in no rush to complete the project, modifying the donor looms to work in the GD chassis would be best. Of course, doing this, I would want to run the donor ignition system, instrument cluster and locks - which wouldn't be a bad thing, as my door locks are shot! Keyless entry would be a big improvement

 

you are going to get a CTR to swap into a fit? if not the base EP3 is a k20A3.. the least attractive K-series.

would be better off getting a tsx or rsx-s

 

I'm from the UK, so we get the K20A2 equipped EP3. Finding one with a damaged shell is going to be my best option, as long as all the running gear is intact.

 

Ktunner ftw... Ma boy already told me he has it for sale $499... Wooooorrrdd