H-Fit Supa Sucka Intake Now Available!
Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 40
From: Cerritos, Ca. USA
Hey all,
Just wanted to answer some questions on the filter sizing of the SSI. We tried several filter configurations prior to selecting the current filter. The current filter's flowrate and shape was found to produce the best balance of torque and HP numbers with the SSI.
We did find some info during our research that you can use to tune the SSI if you decide to.
We found that the filters that could sustain larger airflow produced more HP in the upper RPM ranges but there is an overall sacrifice of torque across the powerband.
More restrictive filters than the one provided generally produced more torque in the lower RPM's at an overall HP loss in the upper rpms.
As for Dry or Wet Filters.
Many people have different opinions on these.
Dry filters usually need more physical surface area to produce equal flow and filtration efficiency than an oiled filter. The filter media is generally made up of very fine densely packed fibers that trap particles within. Recent technology have made them pretty good.
Oiled filters are basically a gauze type material that has less tightly packed fibers of cotton. The oil is sprayed on, which absorbs into the cotton and is suspended in the gauze media. The oil sprayed on the media is usually very tacky. This oil is very tenacious and traps particles out of the air.
People have noted that the oil from excessively oiled wet filters tend to coat and foul up MAF and IAT sensors. This does occur, but it is mostly caused by over application of the filtration oil.
This does not affect USDM Fit engines because it does not utilize an integratated MAF/IAT sensor for airflow measurement. The L15 uses a MAP system which is not affected by the filter oil.
As for cleaning, You still have to clean both filters when they get dirty.
In a dry type filter the dirt particles mainly get trapped within the fine fiber media. The dust can be tapped or shaken out and then the filter can be washed with water. Only thing is that because the dry media is designed to filter particles without the aid of oil, alot of filtered particles remain trapped in the filter itself.
In a Wet type filter, the oil performs much of the capturing of fine particles. The pores in the cotton media are larger and the cotton itself filters out the larger particles. When you wash this type of filter, you wash the oil out of it with the trapped particles and being that the cotton pores are larger than a dry filter you can get most of the trapped dirt out. You still have to allow the filter to dry and then Re-apply the oil to the filter when complete.
We at H-FIT promote the use of a K&N wet type oil filter similar to that which is included in the SSI kit. We feel that the wet type filter provides the user with a better overall filtration system, and being that our vehicles are not affected by MAF oil contamination, a better choice.
Thanks again!
H-FIT Team
H-Fit.com ...New Products Available now...
J2advanced.com - automotive engineering & technical services
Just wanted to answer some questions on the filter sizing of the SSI. We tried several filter configurations prior to selecting the current filter. The current filter's flowrate and shape was found to produce the best balance of torque and HP numbers with the SSI.
We did find some info during our research that you can use to tune the SSI if you decide to.
We found that the filters that could sustain larger airflow produced more HP in the upper RPM ranges but there is an overall sacrifice of torque across the powerband.
More restrictive filters than the one provided generally produced more torque in the lower RPM's at an overall HP loss in the upper rpms.
As for Dry or Wet Filters.
Many people have different opinions on these.
Dry filters usually need more physical surface area to produce equal flow and filtration efficiency than an oiled filter. The filter media is generally made up of very fine densely packed fibers that trap particles within. Recent technology have made them pretty good.
Oiled filters are basically a gauze type material that has less tightly packed fibers of cotton. The oil is sprayed on, which absorbs into the cotton and is suspended in the gauze media. The oil sprayed on the media is usually very tacky. This oil is very tenacious and traps particles out of the air.
People have noted that the oil from excessively oiled wet filters tend to coat and foul up MAF and IAT sensors. This does occur, but it is mostly caused by over application of the filtration oil.
This does not affect USDM Fit engines because it does not utilize an integratated MAF/IAT sensor for airflow measurement. The L15 uses a MAP system which is not affected by the filter oil.
As for cleaning, You still have to clean both filters when they get dirty.
In a dry type filter the dirt particles mainly get trapped within the fine fiber media. The dust can be tapped or shaken out and then the filter can be washed with water. Only thing is that because the dry media is designed to filter particles without the aid of oil, alot of filtered particles remain trapped in the filter itself.
In a Wet type filter, the oil performs much of the capturing of fine particles. The pores in the cotton media are larger and the cotton itself filters out the larger particles. When you wash this type of filter, you wash the oil out of it with the trapped particles and being that the cotton pores are larger than a dry filter you can get most of the trapped dirt out. You still have to allow the filter to dry and then Re-apply the oil to the filter when complete.
We at H-FIT promote the use of a K&N wet type oil filter similar to that which is included in the SSI kit. We feel that the wet type filter provides the user with a better overall filtration system, and being that our vehicles are not affected by MAF oil contamination, a better choice.
Thanks again!
H-FIT Team
H-Fit.com ...New Products Available now...
J2advanced.com - automotive engineering & technical services
der Mond-
Do you see why I referred you to these guys?
H-FIT James,
Thanks for another professional and informative post. Get your CARB sticker, and I'll buy (as if you need that huge incentive!).
Do you see why I referred you to these guys?
H-FIT James,
Thanks for another professional and informative post. Get your CARB sticker, and I'll buy (as if you need that huge incentive!).
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 389
From: Fairbanks, AK
Boy, no kidding! What a class act! H-Fit is establishing itself as friend of the DIY tuner. It is priceless to perceive that a company has done its homework and is actually willing to communicate the details. My mind has been set at ease. My SS has been shipped and I'm anxious to get it installed. Probably this weekend...
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 249
From: Central Coast, CA
That's what I'm running right now, but let me give you my exhaust history.
The first mod I made was to get the HFP Sport muffler. I installed it and it was barely louder than the stock muffler. I wasn't happy.
I then ordered a Megan axleback and that gave me the sound I was looking for.
Then I installed the Weapon-R street header and the exhaust got a bit louder. I next installed the Megan mid pipe and the exhaust got louder than I wanted. I wasn't happy.
So, I reinstalled the HFP muffler (which I'm glad I didn't sell) and the sound is now perfect. Deep smooth quality tone.
So, for me, the HFP alone wasn't what I was looking for. With a header and mid pipe, however, it rocks.
No audio clips yet, but hoping to record some soon.
ez
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 249
From: Central Coast, CA
Forgot to mention that my second mod was the H-Fit Supa Sucka. I've since tried a couple of other intakes but there was a noticeable loss of torque. Went back to the Supa Sucka and torque returned. Great intake!!!
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 389
From: Fairbanks, AK
ez:
From the photos in the fit brochure, the HFP sport muffler looks like it has a fairly small actual exit opening with a flared outlet - it looks like it is meant to "look" like a true sport muffler, but for the outrageous price probably isn't much help. Does it look different up close? Seems to me the Megan has overall larger exit hole surface area.
From the photos in the fit brochure, the HFP sport muffler looks like it has a fairly small actual exit opening with a flared outlet - it looks like it is meant to "look" like a true sport muffler, but for the outrageous price probably isn't much help. Does it look different up close? Seems to me the Megan has overall larger exit hole surface area.
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 249
From: Central Coast, CA
ez:
From the photos in the fit brochure, the HFP sport muffler looks like it has a fairly small actual exit opening with a flared outlet - it looks like it is meant to "look" like a true sport muffler, but for the outrageous price probably isn't much help. Does it look different up close? Seems to me the Megan has overall larger exit hole surface area.
From the photos in the fit brochure, the HFP sport muffler looks like it has a fairly small actual exit opening with a flared outlet - it looks like it is meant to "look" like a true sport muffler, but for the outrageous price probably isn't much help. Does it look different up close? Seems to me the Megan has overall larger exit hole surface area.
Yep, I'm sure the Megan is significantly freer flowing than the HFP, but my seat of the pants dyno doesn't feel much difference. In fact, I think my low end power improved a bit when I replaced the Megan with the HFP. The HFP does have much smaller outlet area than the Megan. For whatever reason, however, it works, for my needs anyway.
The HFP is probably the bottleneck in my system right now, but my goal with the H-Fit intake, Weapon-R header, Megan mid pipe, and some kind of axleback was for improved low end power. My current configuration produces the best low end power I've had so far.
I would probably have benefited from a 50 mm mid pipe instead of the Megan 60 mm, but I got the Megan in case I supercharge my Fit in the future.
ez
Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 37
From: St. Louis, MO
I just looked up a bunch of videos with the Megan axle back and loved the sound. It's not too ricey and seems to have a nice low rumble. Hopefully coupled with the H-Fit it'll sound pretty nice on my 08 AT Fit.
However I've gone through this entire thread and haven't seen any solid numbers in reference to HP gain or MPG gains. Pretty much just that it sounds cool and seems to give the Fit more torque. I'd be interested to here a bit more about the HP and MPG tho. I can't even begin to read those Dyno sheets because I have no idea what any of that means. lol If someone could help with that I'd appreciate it.
However I've gone through this entire thread and haven't seen any solid numbers in reference to HP gain or MPG gains. Pretty much just that it sounds cool and seems to give the Fit more torque. I'd be interested to here a bit more about the HP and MPG tho. I can't even begin to read those Dyno sheets because I have no idea what any of that means. lol If someone could help with that I'd appreciate it.
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 389
From: Fairbanks, AK
I assume you went to the H-Fit site and clicked on the intake and followed all the links to the horsepower and torque pages? That's all we have. I love the sound of the Megan axleback with the rest of the exhaust system OEM, each and every time I drive the car, and it looks exceptionally nice on the car also. Some of us have painted the muffler body black with VHT paint in order to emphasize the stainless outlets. A little polish like Wenol or whatever on some steel wool and the outlets polish up real nice 
not sure, but does VHT even withstand the heat of an exhaust? i'd use
engine enamel paint if i was to coat it black. ive use it on other stock
mufflers where the black paint shrunk and peeled off. even offered it
on one of my details that i did for a customer. just removed the shrinking
black primered and sprayed matte black (duplicolor engine enamel paint).
looked great to match the rest of the car.
anyway, going back to the topic, im running a H-Fit SSI and this thing is
awesome. fit and finish is good too. highly recommend it. H-Fit's customer
service is top notch too.
engine enamel paint if i was to coat it black. ive use it on other stock
mufflers where the black paint shrunk and peeled off. even offered it
on one of my details that i did for a customer. just removed the shrinking
black primered and sprayed matte black (duplicolor engine enamel paint).
looked great to match the rest of the car.
anyway, going back to the topic, im running a H-Fit SSI and this thing is
awesome. fit and finish is good too. highly recommend it. H-Fit's customer
service is top notch too.
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 249
From: Central Coast, CA
Yep, I'm sure the Megan is significantly freer flowing than the HFP, but my seat of the pants dyno doesn't feel much difference. In fact, I think my low end power improved a bit when I replaced the Megan with the HFP. The HFP does have much smaller outlet area than the Megan. For whatever reason, however, it works, for my needs anyway.
The HFP is probably the bottleneck in my system right now, but my goal with the H-Fit intake, Weapon-R header, Megan mid pipe, and some kind of axleback was for improved low end power. My current configuration produces the best low end power I've had so far.
I would probably have benefited from a 50 mm mid pipe instead of the Megan 60 mm, but I got the Megan in case I supercharge my Fit in the future.
ez
The HFP is probably the bottleneck in my system right now, but my goal with the H-Fit intake, Weapon-R header, Megan mid pipe, and some kind of axleback was for improved low end power. My current configuration produces the best low end power I've had so far.
I would probably have benefited from a 50 mm mid pipe instead of the Megan 60 mm, but I got the Megan in case I supercharge my Fit in the future.
ez
Didn't do any formal measurements, but the outlet size on the HFP is significantly larger than the diameter of the stock Honda muffler.
I also think that the tone it's producing now with the intake, header and mid pipe is not consistent with a muffler that's too restrictive.
ez
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 389
From: Fairbanks, AK
Arrived and Installed!
Just after I finished tidying up the Progress antisway bar, there was Big Brown with my Supa Sucka. Easy install, I found it best to just remove the battery, then you have lots of space to get the chamber attached "just right" and then can fasten down the battery at the farthest right end of its wiggle room. Has about 1/16" to 1/8" clearance from the chamber then. Well, it looks clean, and it sounds awesome. My first ride was with my wife tonight so can't compare performance. At 60 mph on cruise control it's nice and quiet, but once VTEC really comes on, around 3800 or so, she really starts to sound off. Fun! So once I have a chance to play around and get a gas mileage test comparable to the last one I did, I'll give y'all a shout...