KraftWerks Supercharger Kit Thread 2.0!
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 68
From: Greenville, SC
Originally Posted by KraftWerks
You will get a Check Engine Light with an injector 20% larger than stock on a stock ECU. That's just how it is. You cannot run a 240cc or 310cc on a completely stock ECU, unless you use a type of piggyback that will change what the ECU sees. Remember, the ECU NEVER sees the SuperCard.
Also, you will not have crisp start-up with injectors above 20% on a completely stock ECU.
So no, you will not be able to maintain stock drivability with that large of injector.
So folks, that is why we chose the 205cc. It fits perfectly with the parameters we wanted... A simple bolt-on upgrade, that could work the stock ECU and support our Header/Testpipe customer.
-OJR
Also, you will not have crisp start-up with injectors above 20% on a completely stock ECU.
So no, you will not be able to maintain stock drivability with that large of injector.
So folks, that is why we chose the 205cc. It fits perfectly with the parameters we wanted... A simple bolt-on upgrade, that could work the stock ECU and support our Header/Testpipe customer.
-OJR
Thanks Oscar, I have a lot better handle now on the design decisions that you made.
Last edited by OJRKraftWerks; Mar 7, 2008 at 04:25 PM. Reason: Fix Quotes
Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 116
From: SoCal
compatability question
first off, i love kraftwerks, the quality and reliability of their products is top notch, some friends of mine have used your s/c.
will this base kit work with the ingalls engine torque damper?
will this base kit work with the ingalls engine torque damper?
Last edited by smirff07; Mar 8, 2008 at 10:39 AM. Reason: miss spell
Frequent FitFreak Poster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 805
From: N Jersey
edit: btw leo ur mani cover looks sick! sry 4 off-topic...
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,710
From: The Twilight Zone
Thanks bro. The pick next to it is what is going in the center of the seibon oem hood surrounded by flames similar to the manifold cover
I'll be very busy in 2-3 weeks.
Back on topic...DAMMIT another couple bills down the drain!!! Oh well, it'll be worth it...
????????
OK, i have a few question for Kraftwerks first on the base kit or high boost do you need to run a colder range spark plug
Next, should i be able to run water-meth injection with your kit
third, since the supercard doesn't piggy-back the ecu, can i run a afc neo with the supercard or hondata reflash to fine tune, and lean the engine out to gain power
also, i would really like to know what all hondata changes in their reflash
Next, should i be able to run water-meth injection with your kit
third, since the supercard doesn't piggy-back the ecu, can i run a afc neo with the supercard or hondata reflash to fine tune, and lean the engine out to gain power
also, i would really like to know what all hondata changes in their reflash
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 151
From: Toronto, Ontario
Which plugs and thermostat are folks contemplating for the S/C?
Hmmmm I'm curious as well...always thought of NGK or Bosch...then again I don't usually go shopping for spark plugs haha. What is the temp and what would be considered one cooler?!?!
Banned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,276
From: Hotter than the SUN
Jeeze there is a giant thread just on this subject must have been before your time. Here is the one step colder NGK if you want some other brand just use this number in the conversion charts and NO there is no stock Iridium plug one step colder, there may be some other Iridium available but the ones that come in the car doesn't have a one step colder equivalent.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,276
From: Hotter than the SUN
Any Civic thermostat will work. Get a buddy or friendly parts guy to browse through their thermostat book and pick out a 160 degree "F" one and save big bucks rather than buy a "Name" one for like $70.00.
Not 100% sure on the fan switch but again MAYBE they all FIT as you can see in the photo it's also marked EK-9 so possibly all civic ones again may FIT the USDM FIT.
These are the Spoon 160 degree ones installed in my Jazz and they work in the USDM also but are expensive at $70.00 EACH. They have been installed for two years with no problems.
But they don't reduce the temperature to 160 on the button. We have normal weather at about 85 F every day and the best I get is 180 degrees operating temperature at 85 ambient temperature. If it gets down to 60 degrees then the operating temperature drops to 165-170 depending on how hard it's pushed but it's still better than the normal operating temperature of 210 -215 degrees.
Not 100% sure on the fan switch but again MAYBE they all FIT as you can see in the photo it's also marked EK-9 so possibly all civic ones again may FIT the USDM FIT.
These are the Spoon 160 degree ones installed in my Jazz and they work in the USDM also but are expensive at $70.00 EACH. They have been installed for two years with no problems.
But they don't reduce the temperature to 160 on the button. We have normal weather at about 85 F every day and the best I get is 180 degrees operating temperature at 85 ambient temperature. If it gets down to 60 degrees then the operating temperature drops to 165-170 depending on how hard it's pushed but it's still better than the normal operating temperature of 210 -215 degrees.
So reading up on NGK's spark plug information and tech stuff, they state:
"Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005"."
So for a SC or TC application such as the KW SC, you'd need to reduce the gap by 0.004" or 0.1016mm. The last number in the spark plug is the gap, and stock replacements in a USDM Fit is 13 or 1.3mm. Therefore, we need to reduce by ~0.1mm, so we should be aiming for something with an 11 or 12.
"Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005"."
So for a SC or TC application such as the KW SC, you'd need to reduce the gap by 0.004" or 0.1016mm. The last number in the spark plug is the gap, and stock replacements in a USDM Fit is 13 or 1.3mm. Therefore, we need to reduce by ~0.1mm, so we should be aiming for something with an 11 or 12.
