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GB: Tiger Tuning KMR Fit Chassis Brace Sets!

  #641  
Old 02-15-2012, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedlimitz View Post
Day late lol , wasn't ment for me I guess
Don't be regret. I had it but it was not for me. The fitment is quite poor, IMHO.
 
  #642  
Old 02-19-2012, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by FITMugen View Post
Don't be regret. I had it but it was not for me. The fitment is quite poor, IMHO.
Oh great, I was the one who bought it from you on ebay.
 
  #643  
Old 02-19-2012, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CJSdrftFlat View Post
Oh great, I was the one who bought it from you on ebay.
I sold it because I am just a part changer. I am not a mechanic. Additional, it was a poor support from the seller.

It is nothing wrong with it. I was not even try to install it. The finished product is not bad but I am not willing to drill my car.

Enjoy it.
 
  #644  
Old 02-19-2012, 06:51 PM
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Which brace or braces is giving people problems?? I still have 3 pieces I need to install on my GD-3..
 
  #645  
Old 02-19-2012, 06:58 PM
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As far as I know, installer has to expand the hole(s) or drill the car for all of KMR braces to fit. I have T1R lower A-arm bar and lower sub-frame braces for GE8. They are perfect fit without any modification but not from what I heard about KMR. Someone can confirm this.
 
  #646  
Old 02-19-2012, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CharlotteGE8Alex View Post
well the mid tie and 4 ladder brace DONT FIT
This is another fitment issue.
 
  #647  
Old 02-19-2012, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JoelR View Post
I got my 5 pieces delivered 2 days ago and got them installed today except for the front strut brace.

Comments on my experience:

-parts and/or black wrapping material smelled strongly of chemicals. After waiting this f-ing long, you'd think that smell would have dissipated.

-quality of the included fasteners (so far, everything needing a fastener had one which was nice) is definitely not equal to OEM stuff. I thought about hitting the hardware store for stainless & some nylocs but got antsy and just installed what they provided.

-no instructions was a bit of a pain but thanks to other posts on FitFreak, I figured it out. The ladder brace needed the most guidance as the fitment wasn't so obvious to me.

-I had to grind 1 hole in the brace that attaches to the front lower control arms. I ended up cross-threading one of the longer of the 2 bolts as a result and will have to chase these threads with a tap when I get the proper tool.

-without instructions, it came as a bit of a surprise that both the ladder brace and rear sway bar each required 1 existing hole per side to be enlarged for the fasteners to work. It's quite possible that smaller hardware could have been made to work but I used a step drill bit and got on with it.

-my largest complaint is with the rear sway bar. First off, the brackets that hold the lateral torsion bar have tabs that are spaced too far apart so the torsion bar will rattle back and forth unless you tighten the bolts tight enough to squeeze the tabs together to close this gap. Next up, the bolts provided to mount the plates to the bottom of the spring mounts are regular hex headed bolts that interfere with the rubber lower spring seat. The mounting design also eliminates the smaller hole (that you must enlarge) that is designed to accept a locating "nipple" on the rubber spring seat and seems to leave no good alternative but to just jam the spring in there and hope for the best. A better solution would have been to use carriage bolts with smooth heads and to utilize the square hole (no idea what this is for but the sway bar also has a corresponding square hole that lines up) instead of the smaller nipple locating hole.

So, hows's it drive? I drove it first with the 3 chassis braces installed and noticed that the chassis "jiggles" less when you hit bumps. It seemed to smooth out the bumps more like a larger, heavier car. I honestly can't say that I noticed a huge improvement in cornering performance but I do think I perceived an improvement in overall quality of feel due to the increased rigidity.

After adding the rear sway bar, I think I've noticed a sharper turn-in response and better ability to take aggressive lines through corners, including adjustments mid-turn, that would have yielded more understeer before. Had my 17 month old daughter in the car and am running the stock tires & wheels so perhaps the difference is more noticeable when you've actually got some stick to work with and fewer precious lives at stake.

If I had my life to live over again, I probably would buy another other brand of braces & sway bars. It feels like the KMR bars are copies of other companies' bars minus some of the engineering that went into fit & refinement. For the price, they're decent but I think I'd be happier knowing the bits I've put on my car are of higher quality, fit better, require less modification to mount, etc.

One more thing: somehow when installing the Swift Springs a few months back, I avoided this problem but this time around w/the sway bar install, I found out that even though the ABS wires LOOK like they're willing to hold up your drooping rear torsion beam after removing the shocks, the wires inside ARE NOT up to this task. This is an attempt at humor--yes, I apparently messed up one or more rear ABS sensor wire in the process because I didn't use something to limit the droop. My bad.

Joel
This would be another one.
 
  #648  
Old 02-27-2012, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by CJSdrftFlat View Post
Oh great, I was the one who bought it from you on ebay.
Have you installed it yet? Post picture of the bar, please.
 
  #649  
Old 02-28-2012, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by FITMugen View Post
Have you installed it yet? Post picture of the bar, please.
I have not installed it yet. I repainted the strut bar attachments dark metallic blue to match the chassis color and I painted the tower bar black with plastidip. I'm just waiting for it to dry. I'm assuming based on the poor fitment that you described, I might have to cut off the extra attachment points. No big deal, that is what a rotary tool is for.
 
  #650  
Old 02-28-2012, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by CJSdrftFlat View Post
I have not installed it yet. I repainted the strut bar attachments dark metallic blue to match the chassis color and I painted the tower bar black with plastidip. I'm just waiting for it to dry. I'm assuming based on the poor fitment that you described, I might have to cut off the extra attachment points. No big deal, that is what a rotary tool is for.
Why not you intsall it, first? Cut or drill whatever necessary and remove it for paint. This way paint will protect it from corrosion and hide some imperfection from the installation. IMHO.
 
  #651  
Old 02-28-2012, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by CJSdrftFlat View Post
I have not installed it yet. I repainted the strut bar attachments dark metallic blue to match the chassis color and I painted the tower bar black with plastidip. I'm just waiting for it to dry. I'm assuming based on the poor fitment that you described, I might have to cut off the extra attachment points. No big deal, that is what a rotary tool is for.
You shouldn't need to cut anything off, the most I did was file one or two holes to extend them in a certain direction a little.

When I had my fit still and my bars were installed I had the front strut, lower tie brace, 4pt lower sub frame brace, and rear sway and I only had to file 1 hole on the drivers side front strut bracket by the hood and one hole on the sub frame brace on the drivers side.

A little tip for the strut brace is to attach the brackets first then then silver cross bar to them.
 

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