lol, way to scare me! ok ill get an oil pan before then lol thanks man!

 

Screen 2/3 of the pickup with a plate and tilt/dip the open end deeper into the sump. Then baffle the sump.

Problem solved with $100 in fab work.

 

I was gonna go with Hytech oil pan baffle kit

before


after

 

That'll do the trick. I would still consider modding the pickup too.

 

Obscuring a portion of the pickup to keep the open part submerged at all times works wonders on my cars under heavy accel and hard corners.


Something like this would go a long way too:


Or be a baller and go dry-sump (this is specifically for a K20A)


Dry Sump Oil Pans

Then for added insurance.. a moroso accumulator, like 3 qts.

 

 

Here is the Prototype Racing one fabbed up by Joe McCarthy.





You can see the trap doors how they open and close based on which way the g's are pulling/pushing.

Though my vote goes for BALLER and drysump, a real winning combination.

 

That looks clean! I want to start doing one-offs for the Fit.

I need to open a shop for these cars. Drag/Auto-X/RoadRace or even Low 'n Slow.

GD & GE. Projects have slowed down the last couple months and my life has been hectic, so my Fit progress has been put on hold AGAIN.

*sigh*

Glad you two are getting shit done!

 

DSM, the above pan I had done for my 5R Teggy. The K is notorious for the oil playing spiderman on the left side and I fell victim to it one day as seen here.

Have not heard of any issues with the L series to date and the motor in 1st and 2nd iteration has been around since 2001. Though that doesn't mean some do not have baffled pans.

 

With the kind of G forces JC will be experiencing he may need a pressurized flight suit to keep his blood and internal organs from sloshing around....

 

I am considering making a larger sump and some baffling for control, since I have two turbocharger's CHRAs to feed and cool. I may even add an external line, say -6AN or -8AN from the bottom of the exhaust side of head down to the back of the block to keep more oil in the pan given the rev limit I am aiming to use in the future. And it will hopefully let more oil flow over the exhaust side instead of just down the OE galleys.

This may take some trial and error.

The pressure provided for VTEC operation, and the volume that comes up through the galleys at stock levels seems to fill the top end pretty effectively. So with another few thousand rpm up top (provided the oil pump doesn't commit hari-kari) I imagine it will start to drain the pan in a hurry and there needs to be a way to let it empty.

 

I love discussions and topics like this. We need to add more to our Fit-Racing database here so more will come and input. I know there are more out there that are just ghosts.

 

Speaking of racing, when are you getting you K dyno'd and will you be in town this coming saturday...i had telecom issues last weekend and didnt get your text until like monday -.- but if your going to be in town sat i might try and come see the beast.

 

I will be here saturday. I plan to work on the fit friday night and maybe tonight to fix my k-tuned shitty products. long story. but saturday if Im done the only thing I have to do is go get an alignment so I can drive it to motorsport ranch cresson tx sunday to shoot with honda tuning. Come with me get an alignment and Ill take you for a spin there and back and we can go grab food or something.

My boy that usually does my alignment quit his job to work for the oil company so I have to persuade sears or Nissan to let me align out of spec. they usually frown on -3.5° camber, and let me sit in the car to get my weight. I got a silver tongue though.

 

SWEETNESS! Ima clear my sched for sat. I REALLY need to get my sway bar off too...gotta make dat cash for a FA .

So as far as the alignment, what is Sears or Nissan charging for a proper alignment? Im gonna need someones services for an alignment with my FA once i get it.

Now what needs to be fixed with your k-tuned parts? It may be a long story but i got time
lol

 

I don't care about the price at all but I do care if I get it the way I want it done. Usually 80 bucks because "we dont just charge for front wheel alignment" so I make the counter and say, How about I pay your full 80 bucks but you be tuner friendly and let me sit in my car and adjust to my specs, just the front end. thats all. they usually agree. I say this all to the tech and NOT the manager or clerk guy. fawk those guys. They will easily just say NO.

now about K-Tuned... I'll just link you BOTH threads from the time I made my first complaint. Its not long really but you HAVE TO READ BOTH THREADS please.



K-Tuned Swivel Neck Thermostat housing - Page 14 - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum

K-Tuned Upper Coolant Housing - OFFICIAL RELEASE! - Page 7 - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum

If I could use OEM parts I would for the shoot with Honda Tuning instead of their garbage. But I have to. So I'm going to write "JUNK" in permanent marker on them for the shoot. I will also make sure to mention them and their customer service briefly.

 

Thats absolutely ridiculous. Im right with you, even if a part is bad or defective, i prefer a company that takes ownership of a situation instead of automatically passing it off as user error because they ASSUME that THEY are the only ones that know how to work on a car and WE are just a bunch of stupid newbs. Well if were newbs, come out here and show us how its done...and when it leaks, i wanna see them shove it right where it needs to go.

And i might sweet talk the techs into my alignment once i get to that point. I need to get a proper set of wheels/tires before that tho...wish i had $3800 to drop on some 17x9 +35 bronze TE37's and a set of 235/40ZR17 90W NT05's. that would be sexy

EDIT: BTW, told them what i think of them...

 

I know right? Im a newb but I managed to install a K series in a gawd damn honda fit...


I would go 225/35/17 on a 9 ^_^

 

RIGHT!? lol

And i was wondering what size i should go with. Unfortuneatly, i dont see that size avail
235/40ZR17 90W
255/40ZR17 98W
275/40ZR17 98W
315/35ZR17 102W
those are the only sizes they have in a 17

 

Everytime I see a new post in this thread, I end up like this: