JCrim's Road Racing Thread - Stay Tuned!
JC, 555 and DSM make valid points. However, I'm here with a much more cost effective speed solution.
Add some HUGE VTEC stickers. Streetglow also helps.
http://www.amazon.com/Streetglow-75-...8177917&sr=1-1
Decimate all.
Add some HUGE VTEC stickers. Streetglow also helps.
http://www.amazon.com/Streetglow-75-...8177917&sr=1-1
Decimate all.
dled, why even go with 11.7 pistons, the K20A already has 11.5 from the DC5 and 11.7 from the FD2 and you can just get a thinner headgasket to get that .2~.3 extra compression. Unless you have the rest of the world spec K20A 11.0:1 setup. Mine had Mugen's headgasket which raised compression to just about 11.8:1. Though, if you are going to go with pistons, might as well at least go 12.5:1 if staying NA. I was going to go bigger when my motor popped, but Honda warrantied it and replaced the bottom end, so it didn't cost me anything so I kept it stock apart from slipping the Mugen headgasket in.
And BTW, that glowing exhaust tip MUST be worth like 150WHP!!!! Ppl see you with that and they be like "SHHHHIIIIIIIIII!!!!!! I aint gonna mess withhim...he must have like 1000hp!!!"
Save your money, don't buy bottled octane boosters.
Run toluene or buy and blend in race gas.
Octane boosters talking about points increased per volume, are usually referring to a couple tenths of an AKI point at best.
So make and mix your own motor moonshine, or consider a methanol/water kit for your high comp K-series. It would be worth it compared to what you may spend on octane "boosters" over time and the performance gains are very real and much more significant.
Higher octane and colder intake charge. It also "steam cleans" the motor.
They are for the majority a farce and waste of money. Plus, they are very much temporary and inconsistent.
Run toluene or buy and blend in race gas.
Octane boosters talking about points increased per volume, are usually referring to a couple tenths of an AKI point at best.
So make and mix your own motor moonshine, or consider a methanol/water kit for your high comp K-series. It would be worth it compared to what you may spend on octane "boosters" over time and the performance gains are very real and much more significant.
Higher octane and colder intake charge. It also "steam cleans" the motor.
They are for the majority a farce and waste of money. Plus, they are very much temporary and inconsistent.
Save your money, don't buy bottled octane boosters.
Run toluene or buy and blend in race gas.
Octane boosters talking about points increased per volume, are usually referring to a couple tenths of an AKI point at best.
So make and mix your own motor moonshine, or consider a methanol/water kit for your high comp K-series. It would be worth it compared to what you may spend on octane "boosters" over time and the performance gains are very real and much more significant.
Higher octane and colder intake charge. It also "steam cleans" the motor.
They are for the majority a farce and waste of money. Plus, they are very much temporary and inconsistent.
Run toluene or buy and blend in race gas.
Octane boosters talking about points increased per volume, are usually referring to a couple tenths of an AKI point at best.
So make and mix your own motor moonshine, or consider a methanol/water kit for your high comp K-series. It would be worth it compared to what you may spend on octane "boosters" over time and the performance gains are very real and much more significant.
Higher octane and colder intake charge. It also "steam cleans" the motor.
They are for the majority a farce and waste of money. Plus, they are very much temporary and inconsistent.
and how frequently do you have to refill it?
Best motor in my opinion as far as K series goes is K20A with F22C crank. More revs with stock parts, to the tune of 10,500 easily. I too favor NA over boost, just the sound alone draws me in. 
Nothing against boost as it makes a shit ton of power when done properly.
dled, why even go with 11.7 pistons, the K20A already has 11.5 from the DC5 and 11.7 from the FD2 and you can just get a thinner headgasket to get that .2~.3 extra compression. Unless you have the rest of the world spec K20A 11.0:1 setup. Mine had Mugen's headgasket which raised compression to just about 11.8:1. Though, if you are going to go with pistons, might as well at least go 12.5:1 if staying NA. I was going to go bigger when my motor popped, but Honda warrantied it and replaced the bottom end, so it didn't cost me anything so I kept it stock apart from slipping the Mugen headgasket in.
J, your car needs more LOUD. People in Taiwan could hear me...I expect and want Oklahoma to be calling and bitching. hahaha
Nothing against boost as it makes a shit ton of power when done properly.dled, why even go with 11.7 pistons, the K20A already has 11.5 from the DC5 and 11.7 from the FD2 and you can just get a thinner headgasket to get that .2~.3 extra compression. Unless you have the rest of the world spec K20A 11.0:1 setup. Mine had Mugen's headgasket which raised compression to just about 11.8:1. Though, if you are going to go with pistons, might as well at least go 12.5:1 if staying NA. I was going to go bigger when my motor popped, but Honda warrantied it and replaced the bottom end, so it didn't cost me anything so I kept it stock apart from slipping the Mugen headgasket in.
J, your car needs more LOUD. People in Taiwan could hear me...I expect and want Oklahoma to be calling and bitching. hahaha
300whp will be easier than you think provided the parts are complimentary. Alot of this will determine on two things: Cam choice and your manifolds.
The only way you are going to hit 300whp on an NA 2.0 is with healthy VE on the back half and an astronomical rev limit.
You have a flashable ECM yes? Do what I do and git you some C16 and let her rip, then switch back to the pump piss tune for the commute.
I agree with 555, at least 12.5:1 slugs and the F22 crank. You can just run her a little fat and pull some timing around peak VE and then ramp the attack rate back up and lean out towards the top where cylinder pressure falls off.. some coated/grooved bearings and a little love on the oil pump plus the addition of your sump mods and you'll be in good shape.
Wind it to the moon with the biggest lopiest cam you can get your hands on
(This may require cutting some reliefs in the pistons), drop in some Ti retainers, maybe some shims and the beefiest beehives or double springs you can find, and hold on tight. This is where that custom exhaust header and intake manifold will start to reveal whether they were worth the cost in terms of flow.
In the long run, I would probably look at getting some PPG gears or a full dogbox and a twin disk clutch to handle slamming gears north of 11k as lock-out may rear its head.
The only way you are going to hit 300whp on an NA 2.0 is with healthy VE on the back half and an astronomical rev limit.
You have a flashable ECM yes? Do what I do and git you some C16 and let her rip, then switch back to the pump piss tune for the commute.
I agree with 555, at least 12.5:1 slugs and the F22 crank. You can just run her a little fat and pull some timing around peak VE and then ramp the attack rate back up and lean out towards the top where cylinder pressure falls off.. some coated/grooved bearings and a little love on the oil pump plus the addition of your sump mods and you'll be in good shape.
Wind it to the moon with the biggest lopiest cam you can get your hands on
(This may require cutting some reliefs in the pistons), drop in some Ti retainers, maybe some shims and the beefiest beehives or double springs you can find, and hold on tight. This is where that custom exhaust header and intake manifold will start to reveal whether they were worth the cost in terms of flow.
In the long run, I would probably look at getting some PPG gears or a full dogbox and a twin disk clutch to handle slamming gears north of 11k as lock-out may rear its head.
lol @ lot of sexy words haha
hahaUPDATE what I'm working on:
OF COURSE now that all my leaks with coolant are fixed I move on to a 2nd issue. the infamous TPS failure .... everyone and their mom has this issue. Hybrid Racing mailed me out a new one yesterday. they are only a state over so it will be here tomorrow im sure if not today like usual.
when I was driving to cresson over the weekend, about half way there the car started bucking while cruising (not acceling or decell, just maintaining speed you know?). It felt like a distributor problem, i know this feeling because my b16b crx did this before and it was the distributor. I panicked and thought maybe one of my coil packs are going out. well then i started playing with it while driving back home. I had 2.5 hours to diagnose the problem on the trip home. My IQ3 didn't display any volt drop or temp change or timing change when it would buck. so it HAD to be something non electrical in my eyes.. then i read all day yesterday about tps. there is a HUGE thread on k20a about tps failure. this sounds EXACTLY like my problem. they are made of glass (medaphore). so i will replace it and install it at .5 volts and adjust in kpro the throttle %. should fix it. I cant think of anything else that would cause this. also while I was playing with the issue on the long drive home, I noticed it would not buck if i WAS acceling or decelling, just maintaining speed. Like the TPS % was jumping causing the car to buck. so i drove home like this:
BWAAAAAAA, bwaaaaa, BWAAAAAAAAAAAA, bwaaaaa, BWAAAAAAAAA, bwaaaaa lol over and over. drove me crazy. much better than having the car buck like its on 3 cylinders.. lol
I also got pulled over for noise going through a country town sounding like that hahaha I didn't get a ticket, told the copper that my tps was fawked up and he let me go after he asked me if i had any warrants he should know about.. I showed the copper my US Federal Court badge and he understood I cannot possibly be a criminal or felon lol. so he bid me good day and I continued the ridiculously revving home. lol
so I think its loud enough 555. lol
one more lol for good measure, LOL
I also got pulled over for noise going through a country town sounding like that hahaha I didn't get a ticket, told the copper that my tps was fawked up and he let me go after he asked me if i had any warrants he should know about.. I showed the copper my US Federal Court badge and he understood I cannot possibly be a criminal or felon lol. so he bid me good day and I continued the ridiculously revving home. lol
That sucks about the TPS, I had the same problem hours after my first drive. I ended up buying a older throttle body and grabed the TPS and IACV (i needed that as well) I dint have any more issues the rest of the summer.
So ive definitely heard a lot about water/meth for turbo/high comp applications. What exactly is required to run it? Obviously you have to have a water/meth injection kit but what other materials do you need to use for it/refill it with?
and how frequently do you have to refill it?
and how frequently do you have to refill it?
Obviously a Wideband UEGO sensor and preferably logged to your ECM is going to be necessary just to tune the K, but also mandatory for dialing in your meth system.
You can use 50/50 washer fluid (blue stuff good to -20*F) from the gas station.
How often you fill it determines on nozzle and reservoir size as well as your activation parameters.
So basically how you use your right foot.
The easiest example I can give you from a mostly street duty car (the 1G Laser I sold in October) I had a gallon reservoir with a single 625cc/min nozzle before the throttle body with a 150psi Shur-Flo pump and a snow performance progressive computer referencing vac/boost with its on-board MAP. Being a progressive controller it would start to spray around 15psi, and had it ramp up to 100% duty cycle @ 30psi. I left it sit wide open from 30psi to full boost which was usually around 38psi on the last turbo that was on the car. (59mm BW S200sx in the divided T3 housing)
Fortunately O2 sensors don't know what fuel is being used but instead just read in lambda, but you can stick with the Gas scale AFRs most will read out. So where I may have run real fat like 10.3-10.5 to pull off high boost and double digit timing on pump 93/toluene I could lean out to 11.3-11.8 depending on conditions and still run boost in the high 30's and double digit timing with an agressive attack rate through and past peak VE/Torque.
And with that setup under spirited driving conditions I would fill the meth tank everytime I filled the 15gal main fuel tank. And @ $2.50 or so it was a cheap but effective power adder. If you find a junkyard reservoir from a car with a low washer level light you can use that to warn yourself of when you are low. Mount an LED on your dash for it.
Also, a solenoid as close to the injector as possible can keep meth from pooling after the pump de-activates and the line tries to empty. Also makes the system respond faster when the lines stay mostly full.
With an tunable ECM you can keep multiple tunes so you don't even have to run the Meth kit all the time if you trigger the Meth computer with the ECM.
So you can have a commute tune, a street/strip tune and a race tune for instance.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Feb 2, 2012 at 02:58 PM.
Well if you are doing a K-swap, presumably you have the flashable ECM to run it. So that right there is all you need to take full advantage of a meth Kit.
Obviously a Wideband UEGO sensor and preferably logged to your ECM is going to be necessary just to tune the K, but also mandatory for dialing in your meth system.
You can use 50/50 washer fluid (blue stuff good to -20*F) from the gas station.
How often you fill it determines on nozzle and reservoir size as well as your activation parameters.
So basically how you use your right foot.
The easiest example I can give you from a mostly street duty car (the 1G Laser I sold in October) I had a gallon reservoir with a single 625cc/min nozzle before the throttle body with a 150psi Shur-Flo pump and a snow performance progressive computer referencing vac/boost with its on-board MAP. Being a progressive controller it would start to spray around 15psi, and had it ramp up to 100% duty cycle @ 30psi. I left it sit wide open from 30psi to full boost which was usually around 38psi on the last turbo that was on the car. (59mm BW S200sx in the divided T3 housing)
Fortunately O2 sensors don't know what fuel is being used but instead just read in lambda, but you can stick with the Gas scale AFRs most will read out. So where I may have run real fat like 10.3-10.5 to pull off high boost and double digit timing on pump 93/toluene I could lean out to 11.3-11.8 depending on conditions and still run boost in the high 30's and double digit timing with an agressive attack rate through and past peak VE/Torque.
And with that setup under spirited driving conditions I would fill the meth tank everytime I filled the 15gal main fuel tank. And @ $2.50 or so it was a cheap but effective power adder. If you find a junkyard reservoir from a car with a low washer level light you can use that to warn yourself of when you are low. Mount an LED on your dash for it.
Also, a solenoid as close to the injector as possible can keep meth from pooling after the pump de-activates and the line tries to empty. Also makes the system respond faster when the lines stay mostly full.
With an tunable ECM you can keep multiple tunes so you don't even have to run the Meth kit all the time if you trigger the Meth computer with the ECM.
So you can have a commute tune, a street/strip tune and a race tune for instance.
Obviously a Wideband UEGO sensor and preferably logged to your ECM is going to be necessary just to tune the K, but also mandatory for dialing in your meth system.
You can use 50/50 washer fluid (blue stuff good to -20*F) from the gas station.
How often you fill it determines on nozzle and reservoir size as well as your activation parameters.
So basically how you use your right foot.
The easiest example I can give you from a mostly street duty car (the 1G Laser I sold in October) I had a gallon reservoir with a single 625cc/min nozzle before the throttle body with a 150psi Shur-Flo pump and a snow performance progressive computer referencing vac/boost with its on-board MAP. Being a progressive controller it would start to spray around 15psi, and had it ramp up to 100% duty cycle @ 30psi. I left it sit wide open from 30psi to full boost which was usually around 38psi on the last turbo that was on the car. (59mm BW S200sx in the divided T3 housing)
Fortunately O2 sensors don't know what fuel is being used but instead just read in lambda, but you can stick with the Gas scale AFRs most will read out. So where I may have run real fat like 10.3-10.5 to pull off high boost and double digit timing on pump 93/toluene I could lean out to 11.3-11.8 depending on conditions and still run boost in the high 30's and double digit timing with an agressive attack rate through and past peak VE/Torque.
And with that setup under spirited driving conditions I would fill the meth tank everytime I filled the 15gal main fuel tank. And @ $2.50 or so it was a cheap but effective power adder. If you find a junkyard reservoir from a car with a low washer level light you can use that to warn yourself of when you are low. Mount an LED on your dash for it.
Also, a solenoid as close to the injector as possible can keep meth from pooling after the pump de-activates and the line tries to empty. Also makes the system respond faster when the lines stay mostly full.
With an tunable ECM you can keep multiple tunes so you don't even have to run the Meth kit all the time if you trigger the Meth computer with the ECM.
So you can have a commute tune, a street/strip tune and a race tune for instance.
It can still be a DD street car. Remember you will have electronic control over the cam timing/phasing. This will effect your compression ratios. This can also be fine tuned with HG choice. As well as cam choice.
Just because you bought slugs that were advertised as 12.5 doesn't mean thats what you are getting.
Additionally chamber polishing, a colder plug and ceramic coating the valve hats and piston crowns are all good options.
You don't need the W/M just to run the 12.5:1 slugs, you are using the meth to make even MORE power.
You should never be relying on your chemical charge cooling to keep the motor together. Just use it as a power adder.
This isn't nearly comprehensive but a good starter intro to some of what is involved:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ech/index.html
Just because you bought slugs that were advertised as 12.5 doesn't mean thats what you are getting.
Additionally chamber polishing, a colder plug and ceramic coating the valve hats and piston crowns are all good options.
You don't need the W/M just to run the 12.5:1 slugs, you are using the meth to make even MORE power.
You should never be relying on your chemical charge cooling to keep the motor together. Just use it as a power adder.
This isn't nearly comprehensive but a good starter intro to some of what is involved:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ech/index.html
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Feb 2, 2012 at 05:18 PM.
Just wanted to put some updated pics here really fast.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729667/http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729667/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/jcrimson/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729771/http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729771/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/jcrimson/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729575/http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729575/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/jcrimson/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729667/http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729667/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/jcrimson/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729771/http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729771/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/jcrimson/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729575/http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrimson/6851729575/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/jcrimson/, on Flickr
