What did you do to the GD Fit today?
With spacers the wheels are +35. Not 100% sure on the camber, I had them go as far negative as possible with the factory suspension. Think it was about -3 in the fronts.
I'll be doing extended lugs on my next setup but I wonder if they will stick out past my lug nuts. I have muteki extended lug nuts. I noticed a couple pages back you just have what looks like super short lug nuts. I'm planning on running 8mm spacers.
Been a while so here is an update. After accident number 3 (first one that was my fault) I have done a few more things. Black headlights, JL 10 inch sub , JL amp, Painted the gauge cluster, and today installed some Tein coilovers with new sway bar end-links. Needs a wash now. 
JL Sub/Amp (this little thing pounds)
IMAG2216 by anasia13, on Flickr
Tein Super Wagon Coilovers (got a great deal on them so here they are)
IMAG2315 by anasia13, on Flickr
Black headlights
IMAG2196 by anasia13, on Flickr
Dash
IMAG2195 by anasia13, on Flickr

JL Sub/Amp (this little thing pounds)
IMAG2216 by anasia13, on FlickrTein Super Wagon Coilovers (got a great deal on them so here they are)
IMAG2315 by anasia13, on FlickrBlack headlights
IMAG2196 by anasia13, on FlickrDash
IMAG2195 by anasia13, on Flickr
I haven't touched my car in weeks. Did put the subframe back into the car. Am having a weird issue with popping fuse #3 under the dash. when ever I hit the blinkers, lights or wipers. I htink I need to get under the dash and start looking at the wiring for the racepack and maybe the Haltech? God I hate electrical issues. This also might be easier if I dint break my laptop so I could actually plug the Haltech in.
Over the past few weeks I've installed all new hubs bearings all around along with arp extended studs. While removing the driver hub the cv axle decided that it didn't want to separate from the hub so I took it to a shop where they used a torch and an air hammer to separate them. Now I have a new driver axle as well. I also decided to change my transmission fluid and installed some hella supertones.
Mine is actually a j's racing replica from nextmod. I really wanted the real deal to match my grill but it's just too expensive when it sits that low to the ground. Plus getting it shipped and painted. This rep fit pretty damn good, had a little damage due to the kinda lame shipping I got but the dealer I had fix and paint did a great job. If your car is super low and you daily it like I do, the replica really makes more sense in my opinion.
I was planning on getting the JDM one but then i saw my friends own. I didn't like how it looks and its plastic. So i decided to get the USDM one and i like it a lot better than the JDM door sills. Where did you get those carbon fiber trimmings on your steering wheel, looks sick.
Last edited by shadowmasterz; Sep 10, 2014 at 11:19 PM.
I would want the metal ones as well. The The carbin inserts are a ebay find. They were BIN for $200, put it on my watch list and waited. he dropped the price over a few months down to $100, still waited, then BIN $35 SOLD! This is possibly my favorite mod, the only downfall is I lose the cruse control but I live in the city so it is no big deal. I want to do somthing to the H emblem but not sure what yet? I would love to find a carbon one.
I would want the metal ones as well. The The carbin inserts are a ebay find. They were BIN for $200, put it on my watch list and waited. he dropped the price over a few months down to $100, still waited, then BIN $35 SOLD! This is possibly my favorite mod, the only downfall is I lose the cruse control but I live in the city so it is no big deal. I want to do somthing to the H emblem but not sure what yet? I would love to find a carbon one.
Cracked open my tranny and replaced my bad input shaft bearing and it's oil seal. Total price: about 35$ for the bearing and seal from honda.
A nice view of the shift forks:

Input shaft on the left, countershaft on the right and reverse idler gear bottom center:

Top view with differential/final drive gear on top:

From right to left: bum bearing (removed) new input shaft bearing (installed), countershaft bearing, CV joint seal:

Case sealed and closed:
A nice view of the shift forks:

Input shaft on the left, countershaft on the right and reverse idler gear bottom center:

Top view with differential/final drive gear on top:

From right to left: bum bearing (removed) new input shaft bearing (installed), countershaft bearing, CV joint seal:

Case sealed and closed:
Agreed. And if you sucked at putting them on like I did then you'll have hazy bubbles and the sides will peel back like a pyramid (the best I can describe it without pictures). The haziness "should" go away in a few months and the peeling can be corrected with some water/vinegar? solution. Looks good though!










