When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Had a bad dream about someone cut wires under dash. Close to home the blinking D light appeared with CEL. Scanner showed code P0843 (2-nd gear pressure switch).
I've changed 3rd gear switch last year before it failed based on mileage /failure history and planned to change the 2nd gear switch at 90K ATF change. Well it failed at 84k (thanks to city driving when this switch sees a lot of on/off cycles). I was reluctant getting it from the junk yard (my last junkyard Fit had it broken off anyways), so I bought it from the nearest dealer (had fun driving 40mph at 3200 rpms) and replaced it. The replacement was a bit challenging due to stubborn connector tab (was facing transaxle) and difficulty getting socket/ratchet on the switch. I ended up using amputated 22 mm box end wrench cut to 4 inches with flattened 6 inch cheater tube. Will give full test drive tomorrow .
Had a bad dream about someone cut wires under dash. Close to home the blinking D light appeared with CEL. Scanner showed code P0843 (2-nd gear pressure switch).
I chqanged 3rd gear switch last year before it failed based on mileage /failure history and planned to change the 2nd gear switch at 90K ATF change. Well it failed at 84k (thanks to city driving when this switch sees a lot of on/off cycles). I was reluctant getting it from the junk yard (my last junkyard Fit had it broken off anyways), so I bought it from the nearest dealer (had fun driving 40mph at 3200 rpms) and replaced it. The replacement was a bit challenging due to stubborn connector tab (was facing transaxle) and difficulty getting socket/ratchet on the switch. I ended up using amputated 22 mm box end wrench cut to 4 inches with flattened 6 inch cheater tube. Will give full test drive tomorrow .
Needed a new tailgate; got a nice one from a 2007; no road salt in Alaska. Rear bumper face had been dented in and bruised. The body shop wanted $900.00 total so I decided to try a heat gun and rubber hammer and Rustoleum. By the time I was done with what needed refinishing I ended up with this. Screens over the fog lights are the only thing that keeps them from being repeatedly broken by pebbles.
Also: -replaced all fluids -new Braille battery -new Mitsubishi alternator
-adjusted valves -Denso Iridium TT plugs -PCV valve and evaporative canister filter -Magnaflow cat and Denso 02 sensors
-resealed the oil pressure switch and transaxle end cap -serviced the PRM CAI -new Nokian WRG4’s in 195/60-15. Fills out the wheel wells just a bit better, looks less anemic and a few millimeters more ground clearance doesn’t hurt on the Alaska Highway. Still corners exceptionally nice with Progress bar, Koni's and also has Firestone air helper bags in the rear coils. I also run 32 psi front/26 rear which works perfectly and wear is even.
My fit sat for 2 weeks while I was on vacation, now the stock battery is dead and won't take a charge, so I'm upgrading from a 151 to a 51R. Looks like I need a longer ground cable, at least.
My fit sat for 2 weeks while I was on vacation, now the stock battery is dead and won't take a charge, so I'm upgrading from a 151 to a 51R. Looks like I need a longer ground cable, at least.
Good decision. I put one in my GE last Fall after too many 151's.
Looks like the battery from my previous Civic is a 151 not a 151r, which would be why the fusible link on the positive terminal overhangs the edge of the battery. Looks like I can still make it look factory, at least to anyone who isn't intimately familiar with these engines, by replacing both cables with matching Civic-style ones and moving the fusible link to the firewall.
I upgraded from the larger base steering wheel to the sport model wheel.
The swap was simple and I reused the right side panel from my base steering wheel to eliminate the cruise/radio buttons.
Last edited by Turbeau405; Sep 21, 2018 at 11:18 PM.
Reason: Misspelling
I’ve had these fog lights for years and never decided to install them. I got a wild hair and went for it.
Sadly this kit doesn’t come with a template but I cut a smaller hole than what I thought I needed and just cut more til they fit perfect.
The wiring was the most time consuming part. The eBay kit is over complicated and I probably should have just ran my own made harness. But after a few hours it was all done. The fog light switch they send took up a blank spot to the left of the steering wheel. Kinda bummed me out because I had the optional coin holder there.
The kit overall was pretty decent quality. The bezels fit perfectly and the lights are well sealed. I also took the time to repaint my plastic engine cover an avacado color. It looked pretty nice.
While everything was apart I went ahead and painted the center lower grill and two small side grills with a satin black. I got a bit crazy and used some blue mirror tinting spray to enhance the front logo. I’m torn on it. Looks fine and the finish is perfect. I actually purchased this spray from Japan to blue up my side mirrors.
I think that’s all I achieved in about 6 hours. It was pretty humid here in Oklahoma.
Not sure if this is a popular mod but I love the LED bulb look that the newer Fits have.
I pulledone from a local junk yard and to my surprise the holes and clips lined right up. I did have to splice in the plug/pigtail from the newer fit as the plugs are different.
It fits really well and is maybe and inch wider. It looks great at night. I previously had a European Clear with red LED 3rd brake light but it bugged me that it was clear. So I’m fairly happy with this cheap ($2) upgrade.
My Tien suspension came in last week so I’ll try to do a write up about that.
It can be done!
I original thought that if I went and pulled the aux input from a salvaged sport that there would already be a wiring harness built in but unused. I was very wrong.
I did a lot of research and most people were running their own home made harness. I didn’t really want to go that route so back to the scrap yard I went.
I pulled out the console (also got a backup aux input) and I saterted to follow the aux to stereo wire. It’s ran with the he main wiring harness but is actually an individual sheathed wire of it’s own.
After destroying any wire that was in my way I slowly followed the aux cord to the radio.
It took about 45 minutes to slowly follow the wire.
I pulled it off and was still somewhat in doubt but for the $3 they charged me it was worth a shot. I got home and was too tired to install it. But today I decided to pull out the most difficult stereo ever and plugged the new oem aux cord in. I did a dry test run before I actually put all the wiring back in behind the dash. I just connected the new aux cord to the oem aux input box I pulled from the sport and then plugged in my phone. Pushed the Aux button on my stereo and what do you know, my music for the first time in 10 years (sans CDs) was playing through the speakers.
I went ahead and reassembled everything and now I’m jamming out just like a knock off Fit Sport driver would be.
It’s a great mod for anyone that truly wants the oem aux without having to design your own harness.
FYI the aux wire I pulled was sheathed in grey with a green line down the side. Not sure if this is the same for all years.
Even with a new battery, it wouldn't start. The starter relay clicks, but it doesn't turn or even dim the lights. I spent a couple of hours last night trying to get the oil dipstick out to be able to pull the starter, but discovered a coolant leak in the process. There's a crack in the pipe just above the starter, where one of the side fittings attaches. It's been slow dripping on the starter and the starter looks rusty enough that I couldn't even use it as a core. It looks like I'm going to have to tear it apart a bit more than I planned, but taking the thermostat housing off should make it easier to get to the starter from above.
Finally installed a JVC headunit with the Metra dashkit (it had been sitting in my locker for a month).
What a PITA. Between the retainer clips that wouldn't release (I used plastic trim removal tools, but still managed to get a few chips/nicks into the plastic of the dash, AND lost 3 of the clips into the nether regions of the dashboard), and the misaligned bracket screw holes for the two 8mm bolts that secure the radio to the dash, I spent like 7 hours to put the damn thing together.
Still gotta get a do-over as well, because I want to get replacement retaining clips in there.
Looks OK, but as others have noted, the HU is recessed about 3-5mm too deep into the dash kit (making buttons at the corners and edges very hard to see/hit).
Nice to have Bluetooth and a USB charge port though.
Drove on the flat tire almost 15 miles to work around 5.30 am (tire was a budget brand 35,000 miles made in China). Found a slightly loose tire valve core and loosely installed cap. Suspecting act of sabotage (some smart ...s kid wanted to try his valve core tool) It's true that if in a bad neighborhood your tires will be stolen for selling, in a good neighborhood they will be slashed for fun. Another proof that race or wealth means nothing with regard to the property crime! Ordered camera with motion sensor! If a kid will be identified his parent's boss will receive an appropriate letter
Sorry to hear it, it rattles your sense of safety and security. I've had a mysterious nail insertion resulting in eventual flat, one wheel center cap stolen on two different vehicles, and even the lead wheel weights stolen off our Dakota (always get stick-ons on the inside wheel surface now). I try to choose my parking places very carefully but you can't prevent everything. The world sometimes seems to be becoming a bit more like Mad Max's world every day. Glad you're safe.
Replaced burned out tail light bulbs #168 (5 Watts) with #194 (4 Watts) left from my Camry. I've noticed that Autozone Sylvania brand bulbs tend to overheat and discolor the sockets.
200K makeover (and under)
