This is JUST the thread I was looking for. Needed to 'tag' it for further reading in case I get distracted. Very nice indeed.

Most people are hacking up the stock air box. I'm looking for something to mount the 2015 maf sensor too so purchasing a new airbox to hack up is not in order. Looked for cheap Ebay alternatives and the cold-air intake for the Cobalt SS was mentioned but the maf sensor would be attached to a 3" tubing, which will cause a CEL code to be thrown (lean condition).

Will keep researching to see if there is a cheap short-ram piece that can be modified to fit the 2015 throttle body and the maf sensor to attach to it.

 

If the 2015 MAF tube is the same inside diameter as the 2013's and down, I think several people have looked and there is not an aftermarket MAF mount solution that is the correct diameter. Granted the 2015's could be different since the engine now makes more power, not sure. That's why hacking the MAF mount out of the stock airbox is so popular and works so well.

-Dustin

 

I just checked this tonight (At Bernardi.com) and the maf sensor part numbers, gaskets and even the screws are exactly the same. I posted about it here --> Intake Question


I also checked a 2014 1.8lr Honda Civic LX with CVT diagram at Bernardi and it too had the exact same maf sensor. So I need to be careful in case the maf sensor is the same but ECU signals to the mafs aren't measuring different piping diameter. It just seems unlikely. So yeah, I'm still looking for a straight pipe piece that houses the maf sensor. I'll take it from there. I ordered a stock airbox for the 2015 to hack up but I want a plan B...just in case.

 

just because the MAF sensor is the same does NOT mean the tube diameter is a match.

That sensor is simply taking a sample. it could be 0.01 inches difference in diameter and it will indeed make a difference in how the ecu runs the engine

 

Lyon, do you think you can fix the links to the pics? They don't work anymore. I want to do this Mod and pics would help very much. Thanks!

 

This setup is on a my 2015 LX CVT. Did the same things you guys did but I did have to install a smaller battery. The stock one is to big. This is only a prototype for now since I'm going to be testing different lengths and comparing them at the dragstrip. The air filter is from an HPS intake I had sitting around.

In the meantime, no check engine lights and it idles just fine. Will drive it to see how it is. Expecting a loss in low end torque and possibly a small peaky horsepower gain. Revving it sounded uneventful (Was not loud like I expected it to be).

 

Not hilarious! Genius! You are creative. Just wanted to say thanks since this setup is inspiration for an intake I'd like to make utilizing a very large PRM air filter I have and the 2015 stock ram air piping. Huge thanks for the inspiration. I'll probably cobble it together next week.

Update:
I'm just about finished my version of the intake you made. Got to perfect one of the bends then I'll connect it to the stock ram-air contraption. Here are a couple of pics. Again, thanks for your inspiration.

 

So I finally got around to doing this mod with "hacked up" stock MAF sensor tube. I got a CEL for "lean condition" but I figured it was because the hose clamps were lose on the intake so I tightened them up and reset the ECU. Now its throwing a CEL for "Intake temp. higher than expected". I tried retightening the clamps and reset the ECU. Let's see if the problem's fixed. Has anyone that DIY'd the SRI encountered any of these codes? And if you did, what was the solution? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

Never got a code. I did find out once that loose clamps means you hit limp mode over 45 or 50mph, as that is the point when the MAF takes over for majoriy of intake air sensing.

I would check 3 things.

1) MAF sensor itself, was it removed at all? if so, check its tightened snuggly and sealed in its rectangular hole.

2) make sure there are no gaps. the front of the MAF tube is approx 2.1 inches outside. I used a 2inch -to- 2.25inch coupler, and no issues for me. throttlebody side to MAF tube can use regular 2.25inch couplers of course.

3)check plug itself for MAF. make sure no wires were twisted or damaged. If the wiring is all twisted up, unplug, straighten, use a needlenose pliers to softly tug on wires to verify they are connected tight, and re-install. Also check inside plug for damaged pins. These things are not tough! accidentally plugging in at an angle can hurt one or more pins.

 

Wish I knew exactly where the IAT (Intake Air Temp) probe is at but I'm assuming it was previously going into your intake pipe and you removed it. If it has been removed, look at where the location of this IAT probe is at. Maybe you have it somewhere where the temperature is hotter than normal (Ex: On top of the transmission). Just move it from the 'hot' location it is currently at to a cooler location and use a tie wrap to secure it.

 

Thanks for the replies, guys. I've tightened down all the coupler with hose clamps and so far, everything seems fine. No CEL yet. And I have "Completed" most the Driving Cycle Status so hopefully its all good. I've been using "Torque App" paired with an OBDII adapter to monitor the engine status on the Fit and I noticed pretty high temperatures for coolant and intake while sitting in a traffic for like half hour. Attached is the display of the temps. My question is, is this about normal operation temps for the intake? Can anyone chime-in for the comparison between the Intake Temp. of stock airbox vs DIY SRI? Should I be concerned with the reading?

 

For me, coolant seems to max out around 205*F in traffic, around 183*F driving, though it can be as low as 175*F

you can change degrees unit in settings.

Ive seen 130*F intake temps in Texas. You cant get that temp close to ambient temp unless filter is outside of engine bay. underhood of the fit is kinda crowded. Expect radiant enginebay heat to saturate the MAF, where the intake temp sensor is located (its why MAF sensor plug is 5 wire instead of 3)

 

Thanks for the intake temperature sensor location info.

I know I have the 2015 Fit also, but I've seen my intake temps as high as 165F (or 74C in your case). I saw this with the air filter just over the transmission, while idling at the dragstrip. Yeah, it can get quite hot in there. Best to route it to cold air. Once you get moving, you should be ok if the air filter is not mounted directly over anything hot (or in in the path of hot air). Take notice of the temperature while you are moving, even on the highway. I'm betting you are seeing it hover somewhere between 10-15 degrees higher than ambient.

 

nope, driving does not make it settle down. Even doing a few high revving sprints, I see it fall maybe a few degrees. From idle, I watch the sensor go from ambient to over 100degrees.

even if you are driving in very cold weather, it still will read plenty above ambient.

Engine bay heat is what is saturating it.

About the only solution I see is to get specifics about the sensor, find a temp sensor that can take its place, depin the MAF plug, and move new sensor to the filter, and place both outside the engine bay.

Or buy a second MAF, do some plug hacks, make the one closer to throttlebody MAF only, and make one closer to filter IAT only


EDIT more accurate intake temps will allow increased engine efficiency, which translates into BOTH power and fuel efficiency

 

Can you guys update your pictures and host them somewhere that won't get rid of them after a year?

Would love to be doing this to my Fit next, but it's near impossible with all the pictures being unavailable.

Thanks!

 

Couldn't you just run everything to the 2" piping? I.E., have the 2" pipe be what your connecting pieces connect to. So the 3" pipe is essentially not connected to anything. Just there along for the ride.

 

Java^Fit hasn't logged on since May 2015. He doesn't have a Fit anymore. --> Java^Fit

 

I know that. I'm just replying for anyone to reply. Seems like there are a few people here who know much about a custom setup for this.

 

Well, to answer your question....Yes. Your idea is better! The picture he has above is allowing unmetered air to bypass the maf sensor. It'll lean out the air/fuel ratio and the engine will knock. Your suggestion meters all the incoming air, which is what you want to do and also allows for the piping to be enlarged before going into the maf sensor pipe.

 

These guys seem to have a fair bit of 2" piping available: http://www.sfxperformance.com/catalo...bes/page_1.htm

Looks like you'd need to cut it to size though. Not a huge deal.

I'm not sure you could screw right into the pipe even. The bolt pattern on the Specte piece looks like it may be too wide for that. May have to screw it into some sort of metal band that then wraps around the pipe to hold it into place. Although, going through all this trouble you may as well just stick with cutting the stock box up. I suppose this can give you a cleaner and "all-metal" look.