just to add on the 3rd CEL... the non resetting of the ECU was not intentional, I just simply forgot about it. This just shows on how sensitive and a bish the MAF is.

 

teaser https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...vs-prm-vs.html

 

For what's worth this is also the only practical way to mount a nitrous fogger. Do you really want to tap a 1/8npt into that $300 intake?

1. I have demonstrated that the velocity stack can be preserved
2. I have shown you can reroute the pcv system back into intake, and even with an oil catch can (I came up with a much better one since the pill bottle, I'm using a large alluminum bottle with about 40 feet of fine copper wire laced throughout the inside to give the oil mist more surface area to cling to)
3. The intact tract is just as straight as the PRM
4. In fact, just look at the two, PRIOR TO THE FILTER IT IS THE VIRTUALLY SAME DESIGN just abs plastic instead of alluminum and the DIY IS STRAIGHTER no 15 degree bend. There is exactly nothing stopping you from purchasing the same filter that prm uses and clamping it on to this design. Nothing. You can use any filter you want, space permitting.
5. I need to start selling these bad boys on ebay for $80 so I can finally buy a rotrex.
6. And then I'd have a template for a supercharger kit once I achieve boost
7. And then I could sell supercharger kits
8. And then I'd have money for a k20 swap
9. And then I could sell K20 axles and mounts
10. OWN THE WORLD?

CAPS FOR EMPHASIS, NOT RAGE.

 

Test fitting the diy for the first gave me this problem. I went with reducing the intake length buy cutting .75" off the coupler. Test fit still rub. I then positioned the metal part where the filter and screen mesh were tucked together as it is the most rigid part of the filter. It worked at most but I was a little off on centering it and broken mesh that twice cut me...


I have 2 of the same filter and this is what I did to the other one... I took and cut me a piece silicone vac hose and slitted it to fit and will be held with silicone seal.
here's how it should look (don't mind the location of the silicone tubing... this is just the quick test fit pic... it's by the inlet part LOL)

with the silicone tubing in place... you should be worry free
NOTE: it is better to use the shortest and smallest top/bottom filter size for less fitting issues. my filter is 5" tall x 3" top dia. x 5" bottom dia.

Yes, there is no huge differences between the diy and prm that would suggest anything significant that could and might affect performance between the two other than the build material used and the minor once I have stated.
This is why my emphasis between the two are their distinct sound characteristics and this is where, IMO, the prm takes a hit with it's resonating thin plastic that houses the filter and for the price... I really thought/hoping that it was aluminum. Funny that nobody was mentioning this or I may just have missed reading about it. No offense to prm users (it is one nice intake) but if there is such a raspy sounding intake... this is it. *anyone in the Chicago area with prm or any aftermarket intake who would like to have fun with comparing intake sound is free to borrow my DIY hack.

I'm also in the process of fitting the vac hose to the DIY. I'll be chopping this as short as possible just enough for clamps to grab onto...

I'm still looking around home depot for nipples

 

Made mine up two nights ago...And it's a big improvement over that factory box.

 

Looks good! keep an eye on the breather filter. It'll get covered with oil mist from the pcv faster than I thought.

 

Stayed out until midnight in West Little Rock last night, really driving it hard. It sounds really nice inside the cabin, and it does pull better, even on take off. Mountain climbs aren't as difficult. About 250 miles, and no CEL's.

 

i was wondering if i needed a catch can or not but after a long time of driving without checkin the filter (like months) i bought a grey/silver one to check on dirt and oil build up but i got nothin, it was clean and i have it on an upward slant thanks to the metal hose clamp on the air intake

 

Need help guys, i did mine with a pice of golf mkv gti, and the MAF fits great, i didnt use the small filter, do i need that little filter??????
so mi problem is this one when im driving and i want to go faster i put the throttle pedal down and the car lose some power and jumps,its like if the power gone and come back again, what can be this????

 

can you take pics of your set up so we can have an idea of what you are talking about

 

ok here is the pic i have change the maf direction and the car start, but shut off and in this direcction the car star but whe i hit 2700-3000 RPM is like if the fuel stop and come back again

HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaa

how the hell i put a pic in the insert image i need to put a URL, but my pic is in my pc, and if i copy-paste the pic goes to a new page.

 

im going to buy a SRI kit can some one tell me thes best one adn i dont want K&N in have to do some cutting for my MKV GTI and my girl clio so please tell me the best one thanks.

 

If you're wanting one for the Fit, the only three manufacturer's I'm aware of making an SRI is Weapon R, K&N, and PRM.

 

So i just wanted to update some info here.

With my DIY CAI with heatshield, it seems that my epa is suffering compared to the stock box. With my stock box, on the highway i got up to 38.5mpg with the diy i cant get above 32.5mpg on highway and it is even worse in city driving. It sounds great and def gives me more HP but im loosing efficiency. I may consider putting it back to stock...If anyone would be interested in my setup if i decide to sell it, let me know.

 

I get around 32 almost religiously with mixed around town driving, I sometimes can get up to 34 on long highway drives with this intake. Though on a side note, I get the same effect with my aem cia on my del sol. More air means more fuel resulting on more power and lower gas mileage.

 

so slight update, going to pull the whole intake today and re-seat everything. Gone about 5,500 miles(at 7730 miles now) since install and I'm getting CELs all the time, randomly between 100-800 miles each time. Same lean code 171. I am almost at the point of reinstalling the stock box.

 

OK had my SRI installed for 600 miles now and I thought I was crazy but im pretty sure my MPG has gone UP!

Installed SRI around 4000mi and now at 4600mi total odo reading. First 4k averaged around 31mpg 85% highway driving and the last 600mi (same driving pattern) has been around 34mpg.

5MT with this K&N filter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029X0FG/ref=oss_product

Used stock air box MAF sensor tube hacked out just like in DIY. I chose that filter for fit reasons and it is a PERFECT size for the application IMO. About 3/4" from the reserviour and not close to touching anything.

BTW, love the louder engine growl too!

(Will add a pic shortly to show clearance)

 

Not sure why I seem to be the only one having these constant CELs.

So after uninstalling and reseating EVERYTHING. today at almost exactly 1100 miles, the light came on again, same code 171. Installed for about 6500 miles, and probably had 20+ CELs. So I yanked everything and now running stock again. If the CEL come on then I have a problem elsewhere.

 

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1) (Google!!!)

one of the things it mentions, possible dirty MAF sensor.

 

I thought of that too, but it happens at random times and a dirty sensor "should" throw a code all the time I would think.

Figured I would run it stock for a bit and see what happens. If I throw a code again then I know I have a problem elsewhere, which may include the sensor.