OK so here it is on my car. A couple mroe adjustments are to be made including a heat shield that will attach to the left mounting point for the previous intake box, and im extending the breather tube over the intake to the right held by a bracket attached to the right mounting point for the stock box. After that all that is left is the chute from grill to rad plate and over. and im done!

 

Very nice looking. Should be interesting to see what you come up with for a heat shield.

 

So for those of you that did one of these cheap DIY CAI/SRI setups, couple questions for you.


What was the relearn period for your ECU?

DO you experience rough idling?

For those with an AUTO, do you experience "flooding" or having the engine not know what to do when it should be downshifting after to floor it to get higher rpm's???

I am thinking i may just reset the ecu again and see what happens, maybe i diddnt do it right. but please give me ur input

thanks!

 

relearn was about 50 miles but it didn't run rough during that time, just slow.

Idle didn't change at all.

no the engine/trans still remains the most eager to downshift AT I've had.

I'm somewhat concerned that you are getting a bad reading from the maf. It sounds alot like when I had the maf tube fall off because I forgot to tighten the assembly to the throttle body. are you using the proper sized insert for your spectre maf tube? Could also be a vacuum leak. Try spraying ether (starting fluid) on your couplings while it is idling. If you hear the engine react (rev) from the starting fluid, you have a vacuum leak wherever you sprayed it at.

 

I will have to check into that, because its ridiculous when i want to pas someone and my once peppy little beast now coughs at the opportunity

 

I never unhooked my maf, so I'm assuming mine is just adjusting as it goes, never had a light, and I'm a few hundred miles in after my switch. Though my fit does only have 2300 miles on it. Not sure how much that masters if any

 

Ok so here are some updated pics with a heat shield i just fabricated today. Its really secure in there and the only thing i might add to it is rubber in the top and front.










Let me know what you think.

I am going to start working on the air chute from the grill and rad plate next weekend.



So much more satisfying that installing a PRM LOL!

 

I've said this before...this mod has not been dyno proven. There is no velocity stack with these (which you should be aware is the most important component of a cold air intake system!!!!!).

Also, you all are trusting the cleanliness of your engine to the cheapest filter on the market!?! I've never even heard of Sceptre before this thread. How much R&D do you think this company spent analyzing filtration efficiency?!?!? They spent all the money on color coordinating the filter material. LOL. This is still a thumbs-down mod...

 

lol wow, so much hate. And as long as you have a coupler reducer it provides the same velocity stack effect. All a velocity stack does is take a larger diameter opening and gently compress it to the tube diameter, the same as how a coupler reducer changes a 4 or 3 inch tube to 2.5. Same effect just on a slightly smaller scale.

 

dude.. are you kidding? Get off your f*cking high horse. Just because you want to waste $300 on an intake you weren't smart enough to come up with yourself don't dog on other peoples creations.
Any intake on a 1.5L car isn't going to produce a 1000hp not even your precious overpriced $300 intake system that you think they really do spend all this R&D money on . This is for looks and sound at most. Why don't you appreciate peoples ability to think for themselves rather than conforming to buying some piece of $300 material someone in China made for $20. At least he only paid $30 for his $20 Chinese made intake.

 

LOL, so much animosity...you guys can't even have a rational discussion.

For the record, I still have the stock airbox. If you just want something pretty to color coordinate with your engine bay...then fine. Lame, but fine.

@Java^FIT, referring to velocity stack...wow...way off. You are referring to a coupler. You need to do some more research. Import tuner did an article a while back where they compared 4 CAI on a test car. Some lost power, one did nothing, and the one with a built in velocity stack actually produced gains. I'm sorry if you guys got all butt hurt cause I provided a dose of reality.

Funny how no one even responded to my comment about trusting some no name brand for engine filtration...

 

Double post. Sorry

 

Interesting setup with the heat sheild and couplers - but I actually do agree that the cheapo filter may not be the best idea. Additionally, the length of the coupler and how short the intake is may affect lower-end torque and midrange response.

I'm fairly happy with my modded stock air box and drop-in K&N. Honda took a good deal of time R&D'ing the stock air box and intake tube (which actually has a velocity stack style air-horn inside the box) and allowing the stock induction chamber to breathe better seemed a good idea as opposed to slapping on a cone filter and calling it a day.

To each their own.

 

Ok so just to update on the intake location and heat shield etc.

I just drove 2 hours in terrential downpour and the thing was bone dry and significantly colder than the rest of the engine bay, so all is working as i expected so far. Also there is significant gain in engine torque all around low, mid and highrange. just to cover that comment. I can definitely tell the difference, and i would be interested to dyno this setup i have.

Lastly, i had the CEL come on earlier in the day. I know i have to replace one of the hose clamps that connects the intake to the throttle body so that could very well be causing that, other than that i might try a different size insert in my spectre MAF tube. I used the 2.5 but maybe the 2.25 is actually closer to the original inside diameter.

As far as my previous posts, the coughing is no longer present as well as the rough idling after a second reset was done.

I do not wish to argue further about the DIY intake but just simply say that this was a project for those who wanted to do it. No one forced us or swayed us in any way. This was never stated to be as good or better than aftermarket solutions, just an alternative.

There is no need to jump down each others throats simply for trying something different, to each his own!

And in many of our cases, to each his unique own, because no two fits are exactly alike when it comes to these mods, and we all take pride and great satisfaction when we do these things ourselves.

Thats my $.02

 

That's a fairly rational response. We truly have no idea what this does to the HP. Now, with that being said, if we don't know we don't know, not knowing =/= performance loss, only the possibility of loss. Now, as for the filter, spectre claims higher flow rates than k&n for whatever that's worth. Regardless, due to a large increase in filtering surface area I feel confident it is superior in flow to stock paper or k&n replacement panels. HOWEVER, k&n also makes universal filters in various sizes you can use too for this application As for the velocity stack, I have found a way to preserve the stock velocity stack. I bought another lid just to try this out. By cutting out the full velocity stack in the oem box you can stretch a 2.5" to 3" coupler over the top of the velocity stack and tighten the coupler around the base of it. This allows the velocity stack to sit inside the coupler just as if it were in the oem box. You could use a 2.5 to 4" coupler to a 4" filter to further enhance the effect. But! Most significant intake tunning occurs in the intake manifold itself. The GE8 manifold is already tuned to increase midrange power. The chambered intake manifold is one of the significant differences from the gd3 per Honda's tech article. In fact most intake restrictions occur in the manifold and head. But again, compare this to the k&n design and you will see nearly an identical design to theirs. Minus the velocity stack they don't have. But to confirm., If I had to guess, from my driving experiences, I would expect to see a similar dyno graph to stock until 5500 rpms and an extra couple hp beyond 5500, in 3rd gear especially. Mind you this is anecdoctal evidence so it also is of little value. just to summarize, I don't know, you don't know, but damn does it sound good. O yes and you need it if you want nnnnnnaaaaawwwwzzzzz as none of the intakes out there offer sufficient straight distance between the maf and throttle body to correctly mount the fogger.

To keep rambling: once you get to the pre throttle body most designs (oem) have to focus on noise, weatherproofness, heatsoak resistance, and manufacturing cost. These factors leave little room for worrying about performance.

 

If anyone in SoCal has this diy intake, and wouldn't mind letting me borrow it one evening, then I'd be happy to provide some real dyno info for everyone.

Oh, and Spectre isn't just some no name brand. They spend plenty of time on the race track, and the guys working in their development center definitely know cars. I know, because I've spent time with them both on the track and in the garage.

 

spectre also sells a velocity stack adapter for about 14 dollars, but im not sure how that installs into the air filter.

edit: the throttle body diameter is 2.5 correct?

 

I would love to see this. Thanks for the info BTW.

 

Always happy to help. I'm a bit doubtful that it'll make any power, but I still would be interested in what the dyno has to say.

 

I know this is my own post but does anyone have any thoughts about this CEL???