just finished this and my CEL came on right away. first time i started it, i forgot to actually plug the MAF back in, so i'm assuming thats what threw the code, but do i have to get this erased, or will it go away? any ideas?

 

I've done that before! No worries. It will clear itself after a couple driving cycles but since you have changed the intake let's reset the ECU anyway and let it relearn the fuel trims. You can either disconnect the battery cable for a couple minutes or reach behind the ecu (black box behind the battery) and uncouple the top wiring harness (there are 3, make sure it's the top one since its the one that has the power wire) then disconnect it and replug it in. That will reset the ECU and clear the code but keep your radio stations. Let it idle for a few minutes to relearn the idle, then drive it as you usually do to let the ecu relearn the MAF, MAP, O2, IAT, etc. settings.

 

anybody's check engine light come on?
i've been running mine for the past year and i noticed that it comes on after continuous-high-mile drives and also in the winter...

any solutions (besides unplugging the battery)?

 

perfect, it reset itself this morning, but that's really good info on resetting the ECU without losing your radio stations!! thanks

 

Just did mine this weekend. I'm very impressed so far, especially with how the engine sounds when vtec kicks in. The fit feels about the same in the city but things open up quite nicely at highway speeds.

BTW I found a rubber 3" -> 2" connector at Home Depot in the plumbing dept.

 

Awesome! Post a pic when you get a chance. I love seeing different interpretations of the design.

 

Friggen awesome find, this looks perfect and i love that i dont need to cut anything. 35 instead of 18 for a replacement top with maf tube is fine with me especially since its still less that 280 or whatnot!


This will make my upcoming design work perfectly!!!

Check it out here

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...-air-idea.html

Obv, the prm would be replaced by this, the told me they cant custom make a 90deg turn with the maf section...WHY NOT!!?!? what good is saying you have a custom shop and make them to order if you refuse. grr,, its up to me now

 

Can u all post some pic? I wanna see all the different styles and designs

 

Bought rubber plumbing parts from the local hardware store, the coupler was too long for the assembly to fit between the manifold and ECU, so I had to notch it to give me more play in the assembly. The over sized 2-3" coupler allowed the assembly to pivot the filter. Bought a chrome tube from Ebay for the 3" extension/transition to the filter.

 

I love well written DIYs.

Pulled up this thread at Checker(O'Reilly) today on my phone, bought the parts which cost me $57.05. (I bought the same filter as in the original example, so it should fit) I had already bought a new cover at Honda for $18.00 (since I am one of those people who has to have the stock part to easily go back to) so total out of pocket is $75 and now I have this to install.



after 20 minutes, stock unit pulled, new SRI installed

 

Finally got around to taking a pic:

 

Looks good y'all! I'm happy to see so many different ones. Even though we all followed the same rough idea each one is unique to us as individuals.

Make sure you check on the breather filter from time to time. Mine was saturated with oil from months of use and was making it hard for the crankcase to vent.

 

Has anyone tapped the breather line back into the intake at all?

 

i was considering this for my new intake but i like the look of that little filter alot better

 

The original purpose of the hose to the intake creates a slight vacuum which draws out any fumes created in the crank case. With out it, I believe we are relying on thermal expansion only to do that job.

 

just got my parts today, will be installing after work today or tomorrow. Will post pics when done.

 

Ok, got the parts and omg was I excited! lol Here is a pic of the assembled unit that I will be installing tomorrow.


Beautiful


One question for you guys, im pretty sure after I do this i need to do an ecu reset? is that right?

Also what is the procedure for disconnecting and pressing brake etc.... Detailed instructions please? I remember seeing them somewere i just dont know where.
Thanks in advance

 

I've done alot of thinking about this. The only fumes in the crank case come from blow-by. Even brand new engines have some degree of blow-by. blow-by creates pressure. Pressure is relieved via the tube in question. The purpose of the vacuum draw is probably just to eliminate the need for an additional filter (which 99% of buyers would not want to have another filter to replace) Besides, that tube feeds oil and hot air into your intake tract. Old school big bock engines sometimes had filters directly on the pcv valve on the valve cover :/

 

Might as well reset the ecu, the air is certainly going to be metered at least a bit differently with the spectre tube, so the fuel trims it has learned from the current MAF voltage profile are going to be slightly out of whack when you stick in the new one. It will relearn on its own but resetting the ecu should make it faster. Still, just gotta warn ya, the fit runs 'conservatively' for about 50 miles while it re-learns the fuel trims whenever I reset my own ecu. I'm far from an ecu tuner but closed loop seems to be at least somewhat 'adaptable' in the fit. As in the the fuel trims will change even durring wide open throttle based on MAF, IAT, maybe even from the wideband pre cat A/F-S (oxygen sensor)




""Also what is the procedure for disconnecting and pressing brake etc.... ""

huh? If you mean how do you reset the ecu just disconnect your battery or unplug the top connector to the ecu.


Should be interesting to see if the spectre MAF metering tube hurts or helps or just works. Either way, Nice work.

 

ooo, ok i diddnt realise it was as easy as disconnecting the cable from the ecu, thanks for the heads up!