Did you check all the hoses and connections? I know it seems like a common-sense thing, but it never hurts to triple-check. I'm not sure about the ECU in the GE, but I know with previous Honda OBD2 ECU you could jump the harness and read the codes that way.

 

Use the smallest insert for the MAF you have. The CEL is certainly because the MAF reading is so far out of spec that it's tripping a trouble code for a vacuum leak or faulty MAF sensor. The stock MAF tube is almost exactly 2" (just a tad over) inside diameter at the point of reading. The 2.5" you have would cause the air to run over the maf slower and thus appear less dense. It may be so significantly different that the ecu cannot adapt. You may be running so lean with the misread MAF that you are losing power.

 

Thanks for the input, if i get a CEL again i am going to switch to the smallest one. The other issue i saw when i took it apart was that i was tightening the hose clamps too much and it was causing the maf tube to disform from a perfect circle which to be honest is just dumb on Spectre's part. It should be made from something strong enough that it doesnt compress with equal pressure all around (ie tightening a hose clamp) soo stupid.

I am sending a complaint email to them.

 

Hey let me know how the 2.25" velocity adapter worked out for you. I just ordered the spectre maf adapter and just wanna make sure it works right, no CELs.

 

I did not try the 2.25 yet. if i get a CEL after my latest adjustments i will swap it and try again. i will let you know.

 

alright thanks. what are you adjusting exactly? sorry for the questions, i just dont wanna run into problems when i install mine.

 

I had to change out one of the hose clamps because the housing on it cracked a little. and the maf tube was tightened too much to the filter and the rest of the intake so it was deforming the tube. After fixing that i put it back together with the same insert and diddnt tighten the hose clamps as tight. I know it doesnt need too be too tight because its rubber for gods sake but i was being over cautious about keeping it together and careless about the pressure.

 

ohhh alright, so im guessing the CEL might have come from a leak in the intake?

 

Precisely, so that is what im checking first, if it still comes on, i will be putting in the smaller insert.

I already wrote to them to complain about the metal used for this part.
For an essential part of the intake this aluminum or whatever crap they used is soo damn soft it should not deform from hose clamp pressure! but we'll see

 

Ok so this is where I am at right now. CEL is back on and I have the smallest insert in the tube, the 2.25" clearly this is too big STILL. Ugh i dont know what to do, because i doubt autozone will take my part back... worst case i will need to buy an extra lid and cut it up. I am feeling kind of lazy and sick and dont feel like sifting through 8 pages of posts to find where to get it. Can someone post a link for me?

 

It can frustrate you which it did me and the following link is to my post showing my findings and fix for my issue. I have not had an issue since. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/850961-post62.html . I do not know where the limit is but I do know it is very picky. Good luck and hope to see you fix it. Sorry if I high jacked the thread.

 

nice fix for it, that is essentially what the maf inserts that spectre provided do they just diddnt think to make a 2" one. I was considering just lathing it out of aluminum to make the tube stronger anyway but we will see.

Thanks for the post tho!

 

Yay! an intake like mine. i tried a heat shield for a while but i used a cone shape that was opposite of the cone filter, so it would force air in. but i didnt notice a difference so i switched back to an open filter. however i did move my intake up a little and it seems to have helped, i tried to make the mas sit as most level as possible.? (idk if it helps at all) but i did get a cel too, i took it to honda they said that everything was fine, so i cleaned my intake and mas with some spray from autozone, reset the ecu and no more cel!



but i do have a ram in a diffetent place my driver side fog light broke so i made one a long time ago. there is a hole that fits 3 in. tubing so i used that because i noticed when you remove the plastic stuff on the hood, the hood has a curve that will force air to come into an intake, so im not sure its going to improve too much if you make that ram. although it looks so GOOD! i love them on s2k's but i think its only because the way get air into the engine bay. on a new issue of some magazine there is an s2000 with the filter coming out the front bumper.... it looked ugly

 

i think i know why your having issues if you still are. the intake needs to create an area of low pressure to high pressure back to low. thats why the stock intake goes from the box to the really skinny tube back to a box. and i looked at your intake again and i see you didnt use the stock mas housing and that could be an issue

 

here is my intake

3in 90* from most auto parts places





little filter but you can see i tried to make the mas level idk if it matters but idc







all the connectors have smooth flowing connections and it goes from 3in into the mas back to 3 in almost like stock








this is it all sitting in there i used to have it sit lower and it would youch the rad hose clamp




this is the hole in the car for the ram i used and dont tell me it doesnt work because i can see where it dumps out onto the filter(it gets all dirty)

 

Wow that looks massive in there.

Do you, or anyone else in Southern California who changed out their intake, still have the lower OEM box?

 

i have the lower box but i cut out a hole to mount that tube in i also smoothed out the inside

 

is that a DIY? and you mentioned it's "your cheap intake"... that don't look cheap to me... looks very industrial. is it aluminum?

 

a really sharp kitchen knife cuts through the abs plastic like butter LOL I was done in like 10-15 mins

 

So after about 800 miles my cel came on, so I had it reset. Another 800 miles or so and it is back on again, does anyone have a fix for this? I'm debating on either buying the code reader in order to reset it whenever it comes on, or putting the stock box back on.