Damn you removed the headlight and everything?! I just popped the bumper off.

 

This is my current intake setup. I know I'm getting a little heat soak with it in this area and with no heat shield, so I'm ordering a K&N filter that's smaller and will fit behind the battery so my intake can shoot straight out from the throttle body, similar to the Typhoon or PRM sri. I also really like having the plug in for the MAF on the bottom of the tube so the wires aren't doing that tight 180 like on the stock air box or some of the other aftermarket ones.

Parts from TB out: HPS 2.5" to 3" coupler/reducer, Spectre 90 deg elbow, Spectre 3" coupler, Spectre MAFS adapter tube (w/ cut out piece of stock air box tightly inserted inside to give my sensor the proper 2" diameter and finally get rid of my cel!), and Spectre 3" red cone filter. Also small Spectre breather filter for the vent hose. All in all the parts probably cost around $100 - $110.

Overall I like it, especially for half the price of the cheapest aftermarket intake. I'll like it better once it has a K&N and is tucked neatly behind the battery

 

So what CAI's work with an A/T?

Thanks!

 

I've moved the battery back as far as I think is possible, but my Injen intake is still squished. Anyone else have/fix this problem?

 

Get an Odyssey battery...it will give you a lot more room and shave some weight.

 

So there's nothing wrong w/ the install? It's actually rubbing on the battery case, not the battery.

 

is the pipe reverse-able?

 

Why is it that at our most frustrated we overlook the simplest solutions? I was so worried about the battery that I ignored the intake itself and took the hose measurements they suggested instead of tweaking them as needed. Moved the rubber hose a little bit more off the intake and fixed!

 

Now I have a check engine light...is this normal? I'm afraid to take it to the dealership to have it looked at w/ the intake in.

Should I take it to a performance shop or put the stock one back on and pull a fuse? (what fuse # if so?)

 

Take your car to your local parts place (autozone, napa) and have them pull the code. That'll tell you the location and type of problem you are dealing with.

 

Do you think it's ok to drive? Should I move the hose back? Won't the code just say that it's related to the intake?

I'm sorry for so many questions, I'm just scared for my baby!

 

The only thing about the intake that would throw the check engine light is the MAF sensor. You obviously have it plugged in and it must be facing the right way because the car starts, but something must be wrong. Guess it could just be a coincidence and the light has nothing to do w/ the new intake. I'd say remove the sensor, make sure it looks like it's in good condition, then put it back on making sure everything's nice and tight and the sensor is all the way in. The common problem people have is that the sensor is made for a specific diameter pipe, that's why the pipe on your intake is narrower where the sensor sits. Injen's a popular intake so I assume they are made to the correct specifications and the pipe should be the right diameter for the sensor. A second option (if you didn't already do this after you installed the intake) is simply unhook the battery and let it sit like that a few mins. Then reconnect the battery. This will at least temporarily reset your cel light and could possibly remedy it permanently. Sometimes in this can let the ecu in a car adjust to a new aftermarket part that involves any kind of sensor. The only thing to keep in mind is after hooking the battery back up your stereo will require a passcode to work again. This code should be included in your car's documentation.

Edit: And the car should be ok to drive. If it is the sensor somehow throwing the cel it's not a big deal, you could drive it like that forever. I have a diy intake I made and used a slightly larger inside diameter pipe for a while. It tripped my cel but the car ran fine. Eventually I hacked up the stock air box tube where the sensor sits and inserted it into the pipe in my intake. No more cel. If the sensor were to actually fail while driving, the car would shut down. Engine won't run without that MAF sensor.

 

That's what kills me. I drove the car for over 100 miles w/ the intake before the light came on and the car only has 13,000 total. I'm going crazy. Debating between pulling out the intake tomorrow and going back to stock or dropping by a performance shop.

 

The post above and below your last both have correct info... Don't worry so much and just do as they said... My CEL being on is normal for my setup but resetting makes it go out... I have a scangauge that will tell me whenever a code is thrown and gives my the number so I can chase down the problem and correct it...On the GE-8 models the mass air flow sensor is usually the reason for the light coming on... Do a search of older threads about air intakes triggering the CEL and you will find ways to fix the problem.... 1st have the code read and then reset the CEL.

 

Do you think it's ok to drive to work and to the autozone?

 

Yes. Don't freak out, everything is ok. When I initially did my intake like I said it took 50 or so miles of driving before the light came on. Check engine lights can come on for the smallest reason. As long as your car is driving fine then don't worry. There is a very minute chance that it came on for something other than your maf sensor. I suggest just doing the autozone thing and seeing what code they pull up. I'm 99.9% sure they'll tell you it's the maf sensor. Don't worry if that's the case because that sensor is crazy sensitive to the slightest change. Just do what I said and take the sensor out of the intake and reinsert it and make sure it's all tight. DO NOT take it into a shop where they'll charge you $50 just for lookin at it, that's a waste of money as autozone will do it free. Let us know what autozone says and we'll go from there.

 

Ok thanks everyone...will report back tomorrow. I hope everyone is still here tomorrow, I'll need you!

 

The Code that came out of the ECU was as follows:

"P0171 Fuel system too lean bank 1 (Cylinder number 1 denotes bank 1)

Probable Cause:
Large vacuum leak
Fuel system concern
Igntition system concern
MAF sensor faulty
H02S/AF ratio sensor fault"

So it's probably one of 2 things: the MAF or a hose. I'll check my hoses for a 3rd time, but I promise they are on nice and tight and have already been checked 2x's.

What do I do to fix it? Will I damage my car by driving w/ this code?

 

Car should be fine to drive. As long as you're not noticing any difference in performance then I wouldn't worry. Sensors make those codes pop up and sometimes sensors are just faulty. Your problem is very strange as usually people have complete success with quality aftermarket intakes like the Injen. Could be that you accidentally loosened a hose or something like that when installing. You said you already checked everything and it's all good tho. Did they clear the cel light for you? If so I'd just keep driving and see if it comes back on.

 

I know it's wierd. However, I've been reading about the damage running lean can do to an engine, so I'm still super scared about just driving it. I didn't have them clear the light, because I have no idea what to do next. I'm debating just putting the stock airbox back in just to get rid of this sickening feeling.