clearly

using the fuse tap... instead of grounding it, you should wire the switch BACK into the fuse tap, right where you would put the "original" fuse. but you have to put in the right spot.

it should look something like:


the blue/purple lines are the supposed wiring INSIDE the tap... and the red is the return wire from the switch.

edit: sorry, you ONLY put the 7.5 amp fuse in the right-most column where the "add-on" fuse would go.

 

Breakerboy. Your fit is sexy!!

 

i now want a Mugen grill!

I picked up a set of Motegi MR116's but the tires are too small and make the Fit look like a monster truck, i'm gonna swap the tires that are on the car now to the new wheels hopefully this weekend. If i don't like the way they look i'll just put them on my Civic and keep the OEM's on the Fit until i find something that matches the car better.

 

I guess I just don't get why you would want your headlights on but have your drl's off. because if you want it all off, you just turn it all off. is that what you're trying to achieve? or do you want your tails to be lit but nothing on the front lit? i'm just confused as to why you would go thru this trouble to have independent drl's.

 

And maybe they're not actually daytime running lamps because they don't automatically come on when you turn the car on...? They're more simply parking lights. Just me being nit picky i guess

 

thank you

 

Goobers, thank you so much for the sketch. Now I think I know where I went wrong. Am I correct in grounding one side of the switch?

 

Did I not just say: INSTEAD OF GROUNDING IT?!?

By grounding the wire... you are NOT completing the DRL circuit AND causing the short.

That little black box on the right is supposed to represent the switch... one wire in, one wire out (the black and red lines).

THINK ABOUT IT!!!!! Electricity is a circuit.... and a circuit means, LOOP.

If you are pulling power from the fuse box... to a switch, then to ground. How is the switch controlling the DRL?!?

The switch HAS to complete the loop that the original fuse made. THEN, it's pulling power from the fuse box, going through a fuse, to the switch, then onto the DRL. And finally, from the DRL to ground.

The battery completes the other part of the loop, from ground, to the battery and back to the fuse box.

if you can't understand this... you HAVE NO BUSINESS DOING THIS!

 

That's my problem. I can't turn it all off. When you start up the GE, and release the handbrake the DRL will come on. Doesn't matter if the light switch on the stalk is turned off. The DRL still comes on. When approaching checkpoints at certain federal locations, I am often asked to "turn off my headlights". They want you to approach with just your parking lights on. I'm tired of explaining to the guards that I can't turn them off.

 

Correct me if i'm wrong, but that just clicked to me after reading the struggle but why not find the sensor that is there at the parking brake if that's what triggers it to come on when you release it . and remove the factory switch and extend wires and add yours inline to toggle on and off. I have not researched the DRL wiring diagram but if that is how it works i think that would solve the issue

 

DRL are not any brighter than the park lights. I'm in the Army an the gate guard never say anything about my lights. Lots of cars have them

 

Does anyone else find it odd... a "federal" checkpoint would not know about DRL?

Something fishy going on.

 

Yeah it is BS cause I go through one three times a day. Even the MP's (Military Police) have cars with DRL

 

DRL's are 1 fuse. Pull it. No more ugly piss yellow DRL's....

*blah*safety*blah* just pull it lol

 

Goob w/o a Fit. Right you are. Toss the add a fuse and put the switch in the existing line somewhere.

SMITTEN - kinda difficult to turn them back on though when you do want them.

 

Ok, I have an '09 M/T and no lights come on on my car when i release the hand brake. Are they supposed to come on? And just so we're clear, we're talking about the little yellow lights above the headlights right? The 194 bulbs? And you're saying that these lights come on on your car when you release the hand brake, but then you said the guards at these "checkpoints" want you to approach WITH JUST YOUR PARKING LIGHTS ON. So if they are on if your hand brake is off, what is the problem?????????????? Are you calling your headlights or "driving lights" your PARKING LIGHTS? THat would make sense if you mean they want you to approach with just your HEADLIGHTS on and not your PARKING LIGHTS (what you're calling drl's). I mean that would fit your description, doesn't make a lick of sense to me that anyone would care if your parking lights are on w/ your headlights. So confusing........

 

From Page 75 of 2010 owner's manual:
"Daytime Running Lights
With the headlight switch off or in
the parking lights position, the high beam
headlights and the high beam
indicator come on with reduced
brightness when you turn the
ignition switch to the ON (II)
position and release the parking
brake. They remain on until you turn
the ignition switch off, even if you set
the parking brake.
The headlights revert to normal
operation when you turn them on
with the switch."

 

Apparently, you don't have DRLs. Do you have a fuse at position #15?

After you put the key to the ON position and put the handbrakes down, the highbeam indicator on the dash is supposed to come on (though very dim). And the headlights will come on at partial power. It's actually a dimmer version of the highbeam filament.

 

All done with the DRL topic. Back to the original intent of what did I do to the Fit today; Today I added a set of factory USDM visors. See my installation notes: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1094281-post230.html

 

Have to check my manual. Maybe it was new in 2010??? That's why I've been so confused this whole time, because my lights do not automatically come on. Sorry, back on topic like Rampo said.