When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Haven't changed it yet. I bought a new one about a year ago but the original still looks like new. I am carrying the new belt under the floor near the spare tire, just in case. One of these days I will get to changing it though.
95k. Over-maintained at dealer by Chinese school teacher who sold it to us with 65k miles.
Driveshaft broke last year leaving us stuck. Need to get driveshafts looked at by dealer for the recall. Will look at valve adjustment next year. The trunk latch is rusting and needs service.
95k. Over-maintained at dealer by Chinese school teacher who sold it to us with 65k miles.
Driveshaft broke last year leaving us stuck. Need to get driveshafts looked at by dealer for the recall. Will look at valve adjustment next year. The trunk latch is rusting and needs service.
Great little car.
heads up mentioning the previous owner’s race (btw…did you ask them or you’re just making an assumption) is really weird and totally unnecessary!
heads up mentioning the previous owner’s race (btw…did you ask them or you’re just making an assumption) is really weird and totally unnecessary!
I didn't get any racist vibe off of what he said.
Mike, I agree with you. We are not racists here at FitFreaks. It's good to have an occasional "heads-up." It's good to stay on our game. Internet speech is tricky sometimes. I just want to be sure that we are fighting racism by bringing everyone in, not by pushing anyone out.
I'm just over 130k. 2010 base with 5-spd manual. Only just replaced brakes for the first time. Still using the original front rotors. Had a motor mount break at about 99k. I bought the car new with 98 miles on it. Most of that was because my dealer had to travel to get it.
About 73,000 on a 2010 Sport, 5 speed manual. Purchased at the beginning of the year with 70,000. Pretty sure it spent most of its life on Air Force bases just judging by some of the documents found in the car. It was in Germany for awhile and still has some German tires on it. I just picked up some General RT43's 205/50 R16's to replace them and am going to replace all of the fluids and spark plugs as I haven't seen it documented that any of it has been done on this car.
I bought the base model new in 2009 and right now I have 237,000 miles on it and it keeps going.
Here is a brief list of issues it had:
- Biggest problem: both CV shafts broke at approximately 120,000 M. It happened within a month of each other. The reason is that they had a rubber booth (supposedly for dynamic balancing ... go figure) on the middle of the shaft and it and the trapped moisture so the shaft corroded, weakened and eventually broke. However, Honda had an official recall this year and will replace them for free. I did it myself ($30 ea from RockAuto) so missed out on the recall.
- AC compressor replaced (150,000M)
- (1) ignition coil broke, replaced all 4 (180,000M). I found on RockAuto the identical Hitachi model for the fraction of the dealer price.
- AC dashboard button broke
- Minor valve cover leak noticed at 200,000M
- Exhaust pipe cover broke (i.e. at the catalytic converter) so I just took it off (100,000M).
- Hatch door handle rusted and failed so I replaced it with a $20 Ebay part. Worked great. (190,000M)
- Headlight glass aged and turned opaque. Replaced with cheap Ebay parts (160,000M)
- Window washer fluid container cap broke
- Rear fenders edges started rusting around the wheel. Expected at this age.
- Normal wear and tear items: battery, break rotors and pads, tires, fluids etc.
The car is awesome, runs great and still gives me 35-36MPG. The engine lost some power obviously but not too bad.
My Jazz ( here in Australia it’s called a Jazz ) has 83667 kilometres They’re genuine as I have all the documents from when it was delivered in 2009. That’s about 50,000 in American. Nice little car tight as a drum and barely run in. Black with GK 16 x 6 mags.
I got it very cheap by being nice and keeping in contact with the female owner and the Pastor at her Church who was selling it for her. They even delivered it so I didn’t have to spring for a Taxi to pick it up!
To say I’m pleased is an understatement.
Oneson.
60,993 miles on my 2012 Sport.
The only issues have been recurring A/C weakness and plug 2 ejecting at 56k (which burned out the COP).
An indie shop in IL stripped the oil pan, resulting in a new oil pan and gasket as well.
She’s been rock solid and survived five teenaged drivers without material bodywork!
To the above, I'm worried about your transmission.
Just hit 100k miles on my 2012. So far the only components that actually failed are the rear struts (kyb excel g all around, oem springs) at ~40k miles and the clutch (exedy clutch, luk flywheel) started going around 70k miles (prolly a mix of my learning and the CMC delay valve delete)
So far I've replaced lower control arms (moog), anti-roll bar end links (the moog variant is stiffer but fails more often. Think I have Delcos on now.) Uh. battery, wheels (sparco tera) n tires (michelin pilot as 3+) changed to 16x7 +35 with 205/50s.
01-05 Civic Clutch master cylinder, 03-07 Accord coupe headrests (they help with horrible neck/shoulder pain,) denso Ik22 spark plugs, continental serp belt, TYC blower motor (the old one got noisy) Bel ray super dot 4 in the CMC, redline rl300 in the brakes, redline 0w20 in the engine, redline mtf in the tranny. waiting to install new driver and front passenger window motor/regulator/rail assemblies to get rid of the rattle between 1/2 open to full close.
Something chewed through an air conditioning wire located under the right headlight n killed my system a few years back. Warped rotors a year ago because I wanted to see what would happen if the brake pad spreader coat hanger thingies weren't installed (since new backings come with new pads, but the coat hangers often don't).
There aren't enough diagnostic threads lately. I've been fixing stupid house problems like the sketchy attic ladder, furnace blower motor, appliances, mowers, light and plumbing fixtures.. I'm building a semi-fancy chicken coop and learning how to roof it, but I can't talk to you guys about that! Freakin car hasn't given me any interesting problems since the clutch.
60,993 miles on my 2012 Sport.
The only issues have been recurring A/C weakness and plug 2 ejecting at 56k (which burned out the COP).
An indie shop in IL stripped the oil pan, resulting in a new oil pan and gasket as well.
She’s been rock solid and survived five teenaged drivers without material bodywork!
>spark plug 2 ejecting at 56k
I have a 2012 fit sport with 51k on it. I recently got a P0420 code and had it looked at but it seemed like an anomaly code, however when looking into it on here I've become pretty anxious about these select fits ejecting spark plugs. Did you have any symptoms or CELs prior to this happening? Smells of gas inside the cabin?
Plugs are the most likely cause of fuel smell and misfire codes based on my findings here. When the engine is cool you can reach your hand back behind the intake plenum and feel if the bolts holding in the individual plug coils have loosened at all. If they're secure and you have no reason to suspect an issue, I'd call it good. that's what I do, but it's not a bulletproof plan.
Plugs are the most likely cause of fuel smell and misfire codes based on my findings here. When the engine is cool you can reach your hand back behind the intake plenum and feel if the bolts holding in the individual plug coils have loosened at all. If they're secure and you have no reason to suspect an issue, I'd call it good. that's what I do, but it's not a bulletproof plan.
I've had no fuel smell, no misfire code, no surging, no weird idling or anything of the sort. I've never had any kind of check engine light prior to the p0420 code from about 2 weeks ago. When I brought up the spark plug issues to my mechanic at a very reputable shop I've been going to for years he kind of scratched his head and was like "well it's not gonna hurt anything swapping out the spark plugs at 50,000, but I don't see why you'd want to swap them out almost 60,000 miles early. I guess it might make you not worry about them but if you have gotten any codes or issues there's no reason to change them."
In another thread I saw someone mention a "belt chirping" sound which pre-empted his spark plug ejecting and today I felt like I heard some kind of very quiet "chirp" at idle maybe 3 or 4 times. Having said that, I just had both my CV joints replaced under recall, 2 drain and fills for ATX fluid done, and frankly the car is running amazing other than noticing my freon might be low in the AC. I received my p0420 code shortly after having my oil changed/everything checked the very next day after having my CVs replaced as well as my takata airbag recall and it sent me down a rabbit hole. MPG has actually gone up a bit over the last few days and I can't find any discernible issues with the car other than turning all accessories off and getting paranoid at every little sound the car makes. I'd hate to waste money on replacing the spark plugs (especially with how it seems so many peoples spark plug issues begin right after replacing the original OEM set).
I think it's really coming down to me being paranoid about people on this forum complaining about the spark plugs and convincing myself it's a common occurrence when in reality it's only affecting. 01% of any fit owners and the ones it is affecting are obviously going to likely end up on here complaining about it.
Fair argument. What do they recommend for the code?
Here's a link to a site going over possible causes https://www.engine-codes.com/p0420_honda.html
I chose that one because the first result was a parts dealer and they claimed catalytic converter failure to be the most common cause 🥲
For whatever value it may hold, I'm a mechanic myself. Not the most experienced one, but I did take some classes and read a fair bit.
