Picked up our FILTHY 2010 automatic Honda Fit Sport with 100k miles a couple months ago. A day with Folex, a toothbrush, and a portable vacuum extractor and she cleaned up really nicely. Well, the interior did. It was literally driven by a little old lady who apparently parked by feel. We bought the car from her appointed guardian when she became unable to drive. So the bumpers are a nightmare but since this will see rallycross duty on the weekends, rough bumpers and fenders just add character

So far we have:

• Cleaned the interior
• Replaced the cracked windshield
• Removed the dangerously distorted tint
• Popped out a front bumper cover dent
• Charged the AC
• Replaced front tie rods and boots
• Replaced all struts and shocks (they were all leaking a small amount)
• Replaced front sway bar endlinks
• Alignment after the suspension work
• Replaced a weeping main seal
• Replaced the spark plugs
• Changed the oil, filter, air filter, and cabin filter
• Adjusted the rear brake shoes

Currently the only project left on the list is to adapt a CR-Z splash shield to help keep out debris until I can have a real skidplate made and send it! Over the winter I will get the windows tinted and better tires (the current Sentury Tourings are newish but not great).

We love this little car! My last rallycross beater / grocery getter was a 2006 Mazda3. It was fun too, but at 206k miles something would break after every race so it was time to retire her to an easier life. Definitely looking forward to tossing the little Fit around. My son's car is a 2008 BMW 135i and he actually prefers to drive the Fit to school since it is a much more forgiving drive and has more usable space!

 

Hello All!
We have bought Fit Sport 2008 with 138k miles today..

 

Updated with pics.

 

110,000 miles on '12 man. trans.

Just put new rubber on - $82 each for 195/55R16 A/A all season +$16 installation per tire. Amazon.
ATS fuel and oil treatment -Carbon Cleaner. Now I get 10% better fuel economy. The stuff is not cheap $70+ for both bottles, but expect ATS to pay for itself in a couple of months.

 

I picked up a 2013 base back in summer, only had 5,700 miles on it, also smelled like it had never been farted in
a few months later, I'm about to turn 15,000 miles
only maintenance has been a set of windshield wipers, an oil change @ 10K (there had been an oil change @5K), and 234 gallons of fuel https://www.fuelly.com/car/honda/fit...burner/1163771
I'm still pretty happy with the car

 

AT or MT, Kraut?

 

AT sadly,
but that's what was available

 

2010 Sport AT with 54,655 miles

 

2010 Sport MT, bought CPO in 2010 with 4k, has 110k on it, nothing but normal consumables and valve adjustment at 100k.

2009 Sport AT,. 56k. Literally a little old lady car. Doesn't get used much while I try to find new impact sensors for front.

 

Saw this old post. Well, we're all slower now, as the years add up. Great car history. Car still around?

 

Plus , I had a couple of problems with the AC and had to replace " buttons" inside the CVT ( Car wouldn't shift into or out of 3/4 gears) . Other than that it has been great.
Looking to keep it a while longer since the New and Used Market is so crazy high right now. Thinking of doing an overall paint job at MAACO .

 

Close to 220k on my 2009 Sport. Love this car. Significant rust over rear wheel wells needed major repairs. Alternator fizzled at 200k. Haven’t changed the plugs in years. Not burning much oil.

 

About 162k on my 2013.

Usually maintenance items at their usual intervals.

Serpentine belt at 113k, new plugs, coils.

Oil change every 10k until 100k, then every 5k or 50% oil life. Not burning oil whatsoever.

Transmission fluid change every 30k after 60k

New shocks and struts at 123k

Honda recharge of AC at 7 years as it was low on refrigerant, but no leaks in the system??? Idk. Lol

New battery 2x

This week and the alternator gave out, voltage regulator failure. Getting a new one.
Probably need a valve adjustment... But haven't done that yet.

Good little car, gets the job done.

 

Well, I don't know much about cars. But, i think the % life of oil is based on readfngs of stuff like miles since last change, number starts and stops, etc. I don't think syn or regular oil would affect. So, just keep on doing what you're doing. (And, I might be wrong.)

 

Yeah the oil life percentage is based on how many startups, how much idle, RPM, stop and go, temperature etc.

Not actually the oil composition left.

I do a lot of highway and the maintenance minder would say 12k miles before 5%.

Some people do a lot of city and hills, they have 5% life left at 5 or 8k etc.

I just change it every 5k because I want to baby it.

Probably don't need too... But clean fluids are clean fluids.

 

2013 Honda Fit base. I do have two questions. i just had dealer oil change ( bargain for full syn $45), so i get the "free' inspection. Inspection said front brakes reading 7 and 6 mms. What does this mean? Inspection just circled drums (no reading on report, and and said I should get clean and adjust. Also, I had a transmission service at 60000. All looked good. The dealer (not on inspection) said I i was due for serpentine belt. He seemed to be saying that based on mileage. What signbs could i see of this belt needing replacement? How much should it cost here in NE Florida? Thanks for any thoughts and advice.

 

Pthompso99,

The numbers are the existing diameter of, in this case, the rear brake shoes- the shoes are actually the brake components that stop the car. Those numbers mean you have enouph brake material. Rear brakes do not need adjusting and/or cleaning, the dealer guy was looking to take your money for an unnecessary service.
1) Never mind the numbers. Your brakes should have built in squeal sensors that indicate the linings are worn to the point where they need replacement. So, be alert for this: If, when you are driving, every time your step on the brakes you hear a metallic sound, and when you let off the brakes the sound stops, then it's time for new brake pads (front) and/or shoes (rear).

2) The serpentine belt is the only belt fastened to the exterior of the engine. It makes the alternator, power steering, A/C and the engine coolant pump work. You can see it for yourself as you look at the left side of your engine - a portion of the belt is visible wrapped over the alternator, (The thing with the many coiled copper wires on it). These belts are called serpentine because they look like a snake curled around something - twists and turns. Cars used to have up to 3, even 4 drive belts so that if one belt snapped, one would not lose everything the belt was "driving". Then some well meaning engineer devised one belt to drive everything 3-4 belts used to do. You can eyeball the condition of the belt - if it is fraying or appears to look as if little chunks were bitten off the edges, then it's time for a new belt. Cost? Belt $50-100, labor if done by a dealer, approx. $150-200. FIT FREAKS CHIME IN HERE WITH THE NUMBERS- ARE THEY ABOUT RIGHT ?

In my 45 years' driving experience, I have found car dealers to be no different than you average criminal - they like taking lots of your money. Consumer Reports claims that the local "street corner" mechanic, (Caveat: one that knows how to repair your specific brand), tends to charge less and does a better job than the dealer with their nicely appointed waiting room and free bottled water. One must ask around to find a good street corner mechanic as there are criminals among them just like among car dealers.

Nik

 

Hardly for the power steering since it is electric on the Fit...

 

Thanks, Nik, flor clear answers to my questions about brakes and my serpentine belt. I will go out tomorrow and look at it. i really do apprweciate your taking time to answer my questions so clearly. My brother keeps chiding me about owning such an old car. But, I keep 'em a long time.

 

Thanks for the data. Will hel;p me.