When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That's cute. I bought a couple of small plastic Fits and put them into display cases with a road, trees, a deer, etc. I gave them to two friends who have Fits.
I recently took the risk of trading my Ford truck for this 2015 Fit EX in the pretty Passion Berry Pearl Paint and have had a rollercoaster of experiences. I immediately had to have the VTC actuator, timing chain, timing chain guides and AC compressor replaced which immediately breathed new life into her. Upon getting the car back from the shop it suddenly developed a knocking sound when going slower over bumpy surfaces, I was flabbergasted at what could be causing it since just days prior I drove it and experienced no such noise. I checked over the work the shop had done and found first that they HAD NOT TIGHTENED DOWN THE PASSENGER SIDE ENGINE MOUNT *facepalm* which of course ruined the mount. The shop replaced it free of charge but it STILL made the knocking noise at low speeds, they checked over the vehicle again and quoted me an additional $1000 to do the lower control arms in the front to "fix the noise" and recommended the sway bar end links be done at the same time. Now, I've done my own suspension rebuilds on several 90's honda civics so I knew I could save a grundle If I just did it myself. So I invested the money into front LCA's, Endlinks and Brakes + Rotors in hopes to resolve my issue and today took the time to install it all. But, alas, I still had a knocking sound coming from the passenger side of the engine/suspension area that I could NOT for the life of me figure out what was causing the sound. Finally, after jacking the car back up, I discovered that there is a protective shield on the passenger side of the engine bay that wraps around the half shaft and bolts from the subframe to the underside of the engine, the bolt to which was not secured by the technician that did the VTC actuator and missed it on the inspection. Don't worry, I've demanded the shop make it right as this will be the 3rd time I've had to take the car back to the shop and have them address work they should have done right in the first place, but fit-fanatic-friends, let this be a lesson to you to DOUBLE CHECK WORK DONE FOR YOU NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU TRUST THE INDIVIDUAL OR AUTO REPAIR SHOP. I'm not super bummed about the new parts I've installed in the mean time since It needed be done anyways, but I would have rathered not lost sleep night after night trying to self diagnose what was making the sound. Hoping to get a super aggressive duck tail/whale fin spoiler next to match the one I had on my 1997 Honda EK Civic Hatch.
I also replaced the ATC at the Honda Dealer under the Honda Care extended warranty and had to go back for 2 more revisions because they did not tighten/replace things correctly--it was a sloppy job IMHO. They also had to replace the chain guard they said was cracked when they opened it up for the ATC.
After that I had to replace the Starter under the 2nd extended warranty. (Not the Switch which was replaced under the original warranty.)
And most recently the Transmission blew and was replace by the Honda Dealer for $6200 under the 2nd extended warranty at 92K miles.
Just hit 100K on the FIT.
The Dealer did both fluid changes but explained that the Tranny blew because you can only dump 50% of the old fluid in the CVT's because 50% is trapped in spaces you cannot get to so you are always driving with partially used/dirty fluid in their CVT's.
I do wish you luck with your 2015. I love mine, would buy a new one if they still made them, but not the most reliable or problem free car I have every owned and all the service was done on time 100% at Honda Dealer except Tires.
Makes me feel better, and worse that it's not just me dealing with repair shops/STEALER-SHIPS not doing their due diligence. This particular GK5 I have is high in miles for the year but the original owner seems to have taken care of regular maintenance and replaced worn out axles, end links, LCA's, shocks, etc as each of those parts and other pieces seem newer with less miles than the shell. She drives really nicely now the bigger issues it had are addressed and corners as good as, if not better than my 97 EK hatch did with coilovers, sway bars and all mounts and bushings replaced. I'm really excited to eventually get the Meghan 17" rear sway bar, strut bars, etc to further stiffen up the chassis and carve up as many corners as I can!
Thanks for interacting FITEsq with my first ever post here on Fit Freak!
Just recently came back from a mobilization, and I bought myself a 2015 Honda Fit a few months back. Just installed the Hybrid Racing detent springs, Acuity Instruments shifter cable bushings, shift boot collar, shifter base bushing, ESCO shift knob, and the Diode Dynamics Elite Series yellow fog lights.
I took my brother's S2000 for a spin and noticed how much better the shifting was. Found all the info on the CRZ short shifters (in this forum) and bought one from Revo Technica. While I was removing the stock shifter assembly and waiting for the Revo to arrive, I measured the stock rubber base bushings and put some 6061 7/8" aluminum round stock on the lathe to make solid bushings. Took almost half the day, but it all came out nicely. Shifter boot fits, and everything bolts back up. My Fit is still not an S2000, but this is one itched that got sufficiently scratched.
It always starts with something chucked on a lathe. Not pretty, but functional. Reusing the stock bolts. Test fitting on the stock shifter against the rubber bushing. Following so many before me for this mod, guided by prior knowledge/wisdom from this forum. The first cut. Used a Dremel tool with a reinforced cutting disc and a razor blade to smooth everything out. Note: The top most shift cable mount (the one that was widened in the mod to fit) doesn't have the little nub to mate with the locking tab (the one pressed down upon with a flat head screwdriver upon disassembly). This is how the CRZ shifters are. The other one has it. All done