I prob should have mentioned, as far as oil loss..... its not bad

but yes, def beats the pants out of getting that 5ml of oil inside the intake mani/onto our intake valves

 

i have this GrimSpeed aos on my STI where it catches the oil and drips it back into the oil pan through the oil filler.. unless road racing (which i dont do) thing works very well.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...SABEgKfe_D_BwE

 

Grimmspeed *roll eyes* .... I had to remove their aos ... we couldnt strike a deal as far as sponsorship goes. too bad for them, my sti made it into a magazine .... and no GS logo's slapped on my car. I only regret that I dindt modify my "mods list" to change "GRIMMSPEED boost controller" to "GENERIC boost controller" and not give them any free publicity



http://www.superstreetonline.com/fea...preza-wrx-sti/

 

 

3.38 oz of oil loss every 8k miles is nothing. Source: Honda has said an F20C consuming 1 QT every 1000 miles is within reason.

 

It's not about the total quantity of oil loss, it is the fact that the loss is into the intake of a Direct Injection motor where the valves aren't being rinsed with fuel, as they are in the F20C. Oil into the intake will contribute to coking of the valves, which is a very bad thing for performance, economy and potentially the longevity of the motor.

 

 

I mentioned that my Lexus CT was consuming 1 qt per 1000 miles to the Prius guys, and they said:

"another owner gets to join our 'Oil Burner Club'"
https://priuschat.com/threads/oil-ca...7#post-2741017


And another member mentions (post #1123), a Prius-V manual states that 1.1qt consumed per 600 miles = normal .... smh

 

SO ..... coilovers went on last night, well the fronts at least. I'll have to tackle the rears another day, as it was getting late in the evening


Length of the main spring was 180mm, BC coilovers recommend 5mm of preload, so I tightened the top nut until the length came to 175mm

For the drop, I went conservative 30mm distance between bottom locking ring, and middle locking ring

And for the end link, I'm not 100% sure on the proper length .... for the time being I went with 120mm from the distance of top locking nut to bottom one. (if this is wrong, someone please help me out)







thats it for now on coilovers, after the rears go on, I'll dial in ride height some more, and play with camber a bit. impressions will follow .... soon ish

 

An endlink should basically have the sway bar at "neutral" when the wheels are on the ground, meaning no tension or pre-load on the bar. So the way to set them up is to get them close to proper length by jacking up both control arms (not at the base of the ball joint, you don't want to damage it) so that the chassis just starts to lift off the jack stands. Set the starting length there, connect them to the strut and the sway bar but not final torque tight, lower the car to the ground (or onto ramps to make it easier to get under the car) and loosen or tighten the length so that the sway bar has no preload, then final torque the nuts on the end link. Make sure you jack up both sides equally so that the sway bar is in a neutral position when you do the initial connection.

 

 

Same here, easiest way to have everything neutral.

 

sounds good alfa!

 

sigh, so looks like i'll have to put more energy into those endlinks eh. I'm so drained .... this weekend consisted of alot of the following:

-jack up car
-take off wheels
-change ride height
-tighten it all down
-go for a test drive
-come back, rinse and repeat

now I have to do it once more, for end links .... oh joy! *face palm*




*** CATCH CAN UPDATE ***

I can confirm that, removing the air compressor inline filter indeed restored some lost power. I cannot recommend the mini catch can, as it would appear that its holding in crankcase pressure, can may cause harm. I did, install an "authentic" (per unfitrick - must have the etching that says OIL CATCH CAN or else its a knock off) and much larger catch can, and all appears to be well again








https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ml#post1408584

 

yah coilovers are a pita in the beginning but once u got it dialed they are definitely worth the effort.

and i like da fact ure doing the height adjustments on ur own. the rear torsion bar is so stiff not much corner balance u can do, no? when i had coilovers on my GD that was one of da biggest gripes. not much adjustment you can do on the rear left to right.

 

for a good week or so, I couldnt decide on installing the weapon r included breather or not. after some debate... I decided to go for a traditional install. no breathers, nothing fancy. sounds similar to my prev setup (oem + k&n drop in filter + sumole air scoop duct thingee + resonator delete), just a tad bit louder.

hard to tell at this point, if any power gains are made.... as always, I'll report back in a week or so with my impressions





prior to this weapon r intake, IAT's were about 10 degrees over outside temps. it would appear, the weapon r secret weapon sri has similar iat's

 

yeah I cant think of anything positive to say, about the rear beam. other than, it sucks, and makes life hard (I dont look forward to doing shims and adding camber back there)


dont forget, I also align it myself as well =)

 

Oh - and one more thing about adjusting end links. Remove the sway bar connection on both of them before you adjust. That way the sway bar is not being held in a preload position on one side. At least you don't need to jack up the car and remove wheels for the adjustment, so its relatively easy to do with the car on ramps.