Im a noob at this turbo set up too. Good thing i dont have it yet lmao I want to get everything at once.

 

damn i really want the t1r kit

 

I did away with the turbo timer and tuning shop.. You can tune it yourself pretty easily if you've got some common sense, a laptop, and a wideband. So far for gauges I have oil pressure/temperature, manifold pressure (boost/vacuum, this one is a peak-hold + overboost alarm from prosport), and an AEM UEGO wideband. I'm pretty happy with the information I get, and I DO use them all.

Also, a turbo'd fit does NOT sound like a fart-canned honda. It sounds WAAAY deeper than before I had the kit, and I've got the A-spec muffler and Megan b-pipe. Both canister-style resonators, plus I used to have a cat. Even my (American-biased) girlfriend concurrs. She says it sounds like a sneeze LOL.

"aaaaAAAAAAAA-PSSSSSSSSHHHHHHhhhh"

Sounds like it's gonna eat your face, not like it's gonna fart on you.

Sorry about the metaphor, it's early.

 

is anyone running more than the set 6psi? like 8 or 10?
and in an AT, would it even be wise to try and boost 8-10psi? cuz i'm skeptical about how much more the transmission can actually hold.
i wanna push a little more hp outa my fit but i definately dont wanna blow it up.

has anyone done 1/4 mile yet? i've been doing some runs on a street that i've marked every 1/10 of a mile on( because there is nothing better to do at 3 in the morning...) and i've been getting times in the high 14's...
there isnt a real track near where i live which sucks, So if anyone has actually gone to the track lemme know plz.

 

felix69 is running 9psi with an AT fit.
has anyone figured out how to turn off the CEL yet? did you figure it out with the sensor off the acura rdx yet kelsodeez?

 

no, i am waiting for ben to figure out how to wire up kpro to the ecu. once he does that, i think people are going to be able to run 15psi very safely and w/ no cel.

i havent tried messing with the hondata k series map sensor because of the whole deal of having the ecu in a closed loop under 70% throttle. it wont work unless we get something more tunable. it will mess up the values and make the engine run super lean. possibly blow the motor.

 

why didnt they just try running the hondata piggy back in the first place?

 

i am guessing because emanage was a thousand times easier to wire up and you saw how people got with the kraftwerks supercharger. no one has any patience.

 

i still got CEl....it still runs good..so i didn't bother trying to get rid of it.

 

T1R kits, did you guys have to remove the O2 sensor bypass on the test pipe? I recently removed the bypass, and I'm getting CEL lately?

 

I don't have the same CEL that you guys are getting.. I used to get the typical T1R barometric pressure sensor (boost) CEL, but the new map that I have eliminates that. I never removed the O2 Fix. I would leave that in.

My CEL comes and goes right now, its P0172 (System Too Rich, Bank 1). I believe this is due to my idle being too rich, I am seeing 11.6AFRs at idle.

Anyone else with the T1R kit have a rich idle? Ideas on how to fix this? I am assuming I am rich because the stock ECU is looking for a 185cc stock injector and it doesn't realize it is pulsing a 310cc injector... I've been able to get everything else to 14.7 while cruising and as close as 12.9 while in boost.

 

if u have an auto fit and its only on 6 lbs, then not to sound mean but no your not.

 

The reason the P0172 is coming on is because your short/long term fuel trims are out of whack. Most likely because of the idle but not necessarily. You should be able to reduce the fuel based on map right? what percent are you at it should be something like -40.6 or so at idle.

I have 310's also and i am running -46 percent at idle. It is all a guessing game unless you are monitoring your fuel trims. Hopefully the new scangauge will show this info. short and long term fuel trims ahould be as close to zero as possible (usually +/- 10%) when the fuel trims are beyond this the ecu is working too hard to keep stoich in closed loop and you will either get a fuel system too rich or too lean code.

EDIT: wondering is the e-manage allows you to enter the injector response time? This also helps having the right value.

 

Yeah I suggested he put 0 into the response time change, as that helped me lean out the idle quite a bit. Yeefit, just to see if everything is working, put something ridiculous like -80 in the fuel map at idle. See if it stalls out.

 

Why did you remove the 02 simulator? It's also known as a CEL eliminator, and that's all it does.

Put it back.

 

I went to -80 and nothing happened. I made that change in the Injector Adjustment Map. I went to +80 and nothing as well.

I then went and made the change in the Airflow Adjustment Map. I went to -80 and no change. I then went to +80 and it went super rich and almost stalled.

I'm confused..

 

My injector response time is set to zero. Explosivpotato recommended that I do that a little while ago, but it didn't help.

I am set to -31.5 percent at idle, but even if I go to -80 it makes no difference.. I'm starting to wonder if my emanage is installed correctly.. or if there's something wrong with it.

The only time my car makes a difference is when I adjust the airflow adjustment map

 

Your fuel trims are probably so far off that nothing you do will help. I really cant say about the maps because i have AEM but i put an injector response time of 1296ms. I have rc injectors and the actual response time is 1400ms at 13.5 volts (i called them). being i am between 13.5 and 13.8v i came up with 1296ms. I found that if i put too small an amount in the car was not as responsive in closed loop. i wish i knew what the response time was for the stock injectors. It does make a difference. The ecu has it pre programmed i think and it factors that in when sending pulses to the injectors.

I think you should be at least -40 on the fuel map at idle. It is not registering because your fuel trims are too far gone i think. One way you can know for sure is to disconnect your battery and let it sit overnight so the ecu resets itself. Also pull the ecu relay from the under dash (it's the red one).

The next morning connect everything back up. hook up your pc so you can monitor everything and adjust the maps to -40.6 to -46 then start her up. The fuel maps will hopefully be reset to zero. The ecu will re-learn them. as the short term fuel trim reaches its pre-programmed limit it increments/decrements the LTFT. when the LTFT reaches its limit you will get the code.

P.S. I know when i disconnect the battery with the AEM i need to recalibrate the rpms and tps. Not sure if you will have to do something similar with e-manage but check it out.

 

It seriously shouldn't be this complicated. Maybe your Emanage isn't even properly installed?

 

yeah it's not that complicated to hit a target afr if you drive/log/adjust. But without monitoring your fuel trims your shooting in the dark. You could be code free for a month and then 1 day you get one. If your lucky over time you'll just foul your plugs(if your lucky). It's happened to me exactly like that. That's why i went to a piggyback in the first place. Hopefully the new reflash of my scangauge will show this info. I am too broke to get another scan tool that shows it.

Check your plugs they are probably black.

EDIT:
Here's a pic of my fuel map. May or may not be useful. Our setups are like apples and oranges i'm sure but maybe it will help. I'm still adjusting.