wow....should that alter my thoughts on the reliability of this kit???

-Ricky

 

After proper break in, I abuse the crap out of that turbo. No signage of leaks. Run's like a champ...still going. Just remember to properly break in new items and you should be good to go.

 

If it is a quality kit...nothing to worry about. What is the difference if you baby it for 400 miles and then on the 401st mile you floor it and your oil line busts.
Repairs to cars is a given when you upgrade into performance aftermarket items especially going from a NA car to FI. I have some friend that spend there whole bank roll on FI units...then when something breaks they have no cash to fix it.....expect the unexpected when modding cars. That's my 2 cents.

tonyd

 

Difference is, brand new turbo's do not have any lube in it. It should be lubed prior to install. I did not buy the second turbo, Ben just asked me to return the one I blew back. Yes, parts will fail, even if it's the top rated kit out there. You could be that one guy that get's that lemon!

 

Got 2 luv those LEMONS....lol.

tonyd

 

Sorry if this has been posted elsewhere, but I have been searching all night and haven't had any joy with this. Are the T1R installation instructions posted anywhere? I am looking into boost this summer. I WILL be installing / fine tuning myself for price reasons. The KWSC has instructions posted. Are there any for the T1R?

 

Double post!! sorry!

 

i uploaded the install manual to my photobucket so when i was working on my car, i could access the manual anywhere i was. they arent in order but you can get the idea of what the procedure of the install is.

kelseywelsey/T1R turbo manual - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

Thanks for that! I appreciate that resource. It looks like I can do just about all of the install myself with the exception of drilling/tapping the oil pan (I'd probably have a shop put that fitting in before I start the install and just plug it up as I really don't want to pull a driveshaft and remove the oil pan myself). Just one more question:

How is the Emanage install? I see that you have to tap and interrupt about a dozen wires. Are there quick-connects for this? I know the wiring for the KWSC is all taken care of by t-taps and pre made harnesses (injector clips). It doesn't look like this is the case for the turbo. I'll be honest, if there was a plug & play harness for the Emanage I'd already have made up my mind. I really like the turbo over the SC but I do need to be able to do the install in a weekend with a friend or two.

 

the emanage isnt super hard to install but it does take some understanding before you start cutting wires. ben at aj racing labels every wire you need to use on the harness and puts bullet connectors on the wires you use so you dont have to solder. you can just snip the wire, strip it a little and press on the male or female fitting, plug it in and bam! done. there are also like three wires you have to solder for the power, ground and something else. if you decide to get the kit, you can always write me for a quick explanation as i practically did the whole install myself.

also, with the help of like two friends, you should be able to do this install in a weekend. it took me a week to do it alone. and that was working 8hour days on the weekends and about 3 hour days on the weekdays. if you and a few friends bust your ass, you can totally have it done in a weekend.
oh and i did the jdm front end at the same time so that took up alot of time aswell

 

I really wish it was CARB legal...

 

any one fix the cel at all????

 

ben has a new map for the emanage that gets rid of the cel. he was supposed to send it to me last monday but when he put his car on the dyno, he found out there was something wrong with his wastegate. he fixed it and is going to dyno his car again next week to make sure everything is alright with the map.

let me explain what this check engine light is all about. the code that everyones car throws is the barometric pressure sensor. pretty much what is happening is the ecu thinks there is too much air pressure coming into the engine, and since fuel management is taking care of how much fuel is being distributed, the ecu is being confused by this. the map that ben is sending me will be okay for the kit as of now because its such a low boost kit. but when us turbo guys want to start adding more boost, you have to buy a new map sensor.(ones that will work, hondata rsx 4bar sensor, sensor off an rdx). after you get the sensor, i believe the ecu has to be reflashed so the values for the afr will be on the same spectrum as the new sensor.

ill keep you guys updated on my cel.

 

Sweet. i want to run 10 psi you think that kit could do it and the engine would handle it??? i know i would have to get that sensor anything else you know of???? also which sensor would work the k series or the s 2000 one??

 

the k-series one.

4 BAR MAP Sensor

and i think the L15 can handle 10psi no problem.

 

Would i just have to take it to a shop to get tuned to that or is t1r going to make a high boost kit???

 

to run more boost, you have to buy new wastegate springs. then take your car to a dyno tuner to have it dialed in.

you would have to talk to ben or someone at aj racing about the high boost kit.

 

sweet thanks for the info

 

FYI, Mobil1 full synthetic extended life oil is one of the best oils you can buy. I've recently switched from amsoil to extended life. I've done some good research on this issue. At least this is my opinion. Everone has there own.

 

I have never heard my tires skip during slow turns in my FG2(8th gen civic Si). How do you figure?