go with the innovate wideband. it can be recalibrated when needed and you can buy any bosch lsu 4.2 sensor and slap it in. the aem has a "special calibration resistor" in the sensor which forces you to buy it from aem if and when it goes bad. i've had great results with my lc1 with xd16 gauge.(not cheap btw) lol but you can run any afr gauge with the lc1 to save some coin.

 

Yeah, you can't recalibrate the AEM, and you have to use the special pre-calibrated sensors with their harness, but I like it because it's all plug & play. I got mine for 260 on ebay brand new. How much does the innovative go for?

 

Innovate makes lab grade wideband. I have the LM-1 with aux box so i can use it as an all in one datalog system....the innovate wideband system can also use the more expensive NTK wideband sensor which lasts much longer and remains accurate untill it dies...ive gone through a ton of the bosch wideband sensors (part#17014 at kragen/autozone) which are only about $70bucks a pop over the years....but the NTK sensor in the drag car running on methanol hasnt died after years of use and remains accurate...Innovate for sure...if you can afford the $300 NTK sensor to go with it get it.

 

the standard lc-1 goes for like $180 then you could use any 0-1v air fuel gauge out there. there kits with a digital read out go for $250-280. but the cool thing about the lc1 innovate lineup is the ability to keep adding componets in the system. especially this G5 Gauges: Air Fuel Ratio Guage its a obd2 data logger which can read all the sensor readings which will help greatly with tuning for us diy'ers. the ot-1 will be my next purchase to add to my xd-16 and lc-1. and for older cars they have the aux box, ssi-4, and dl-32. and there always coming out with cool shit!!

 

so any news on the boost up ?

 

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I'm running 9 psi now, but have no idea on my numbers. It's winter here now and it will be for the next 3-4 months so I'm not gonna go do any dyno tuning til the snow melts!

 

good to hear
I am on the same boat
can't get it on the dyno till spring time but my boost top out at 0.9. Bar
I need to get the small blue 0.6bar spring first
right now I am using my foot as boost controler to keep it at 0.6bar

Hopefully my At cooler will come sooon ! I can't wait

 

have you run on the dyno yet felix? im curious how the at fit dyno numbers will look when the boost is turned up.

 

Felixy what turbo kit are you running?

 

not 100% sure but I think its a t1r prototype. or one of the first ones made.

 

Anyone know where the T1R kit taps oil and oil return? just curious

 

The T1R kit taps oil feed right above the oil filter with a "T" fitting off the stock oil pressure sensor and the oil return is on the oil pan by the drain plug. You need to drill the pan. It was simple for me, took me about 40 mins to remove, drill and reinstall the pan.

 

T1r kits, where do you tap the coolant? is it the little coolant bypass under the breather hose?? i am wondering if there is a directional flow for the coolant.. anyone know what I'm refering to?

That's very similar to the HKS kit except the HKS kit utilizes the stock oil drain as the return hole. No drilling required hence the term 'bolt-on' turbo kit.

5.7 psi is starting to feel slow now with the T25 .63A/r. Is it ok to turn up the boost just a little bit without tuning the f-con? I heard the f-con can self correct the A/F ratio? true?

 

i think before anyone turns up boost, you need to get the power down to the ground first. i.e. engine mounts, clutch, lsd, flywheel etc. there is so much power being lost in the transfer. i just put engine mounts in and when i get into boost, it feels like it. i can feel it pull me that much more.

 

Kelso, did you get all your transmission work done?

 

So which stiffness did you go with? 85A or 95A? also, which LSD are you using?
how was the installation for the engine mount?

 

no not yet, i have been putting off dropping my transmission so much. within the next week or so i will have it out. i am also waiting on differential bearings.

 

i forget the number rating of stiffness but innovative makes four different kinds. street, track, race, and extreme. i got the race ones.

 

If you got race and its the 3rd stiffest then you got the 85A ones. 60A is street, I got 75A, just got them in the mail today. 85A is pretty stiff... most ppl said to stay away from 85A unless you plan on making your car strictly a track car and not a daily driver. My friends EK turbo has 350whp and is running 85A hardness and his car feels like it has solid mounts. Innovative said that if you have about double the power over stock then the 75A ones will work perfect.