my dyno was measured at the brakes. i got a really good tune on it. i trailered my car from san francisco to los angeles to get it tuned.

 

it was street tuned by Paulo Keep labs.
i trust him even with my 780whp r32gtr...and he had alot of experience with Emanage.

i am running the Fake Tial waste gate that came with MY kit, and it came with a 9psi spring.
its not like i am trying to boost it at 9psi...just i need to get a 6psi spring to swap in.
lets put it this way....boost holds at 9psi, but i hope i never hit that .... my boost controller is my foot.

 

i still think 9-10 psi IS NOT a good idea....

 

are u kidding....they are worst then garbage....spend the extra couple hundred and get some thing decent..

 

4-5lbs is ALOT !

Leave it at 6psi...if u want to drive your car everyday and not worry about it blowing up.

 

ur kit is made in Japan...ours..isn't.

 

is your car running at 9lbs then? why do you thing 9lbs is a bad idea?
have you done any modifications to your auto trans?

 

Both kits are very similar. Only differences is that the wastegate on the HKS kit is internal whereas the T1R kit is external. The other difference is the HKS kit uses a F-Con and the T1R uses the Emanage. The turbo's are the same and when it comes down to piping you can't really debate any differences.

The HKS kit is a great slap it in and forget it kit. The T1R kit is the better kit for good baseline and then adding mods to it.

Not sure why you got a fake wastegate with yours, but my wastegate is a real Tial one.

The HKS kit was designed here in North America. This is why it is a CARB legal kit.

 

So you street tuned your kit with your foot being the boost controller??

That's gotta be the hardest thing to do when driving on the street... I always thought that the L15 auto tranny couldn't handle 6psi which is why AJ-R made the auto kit with only 4.5psi. Atleast it couldn't handle the power unless some major tranny work was done

 

%120 wrong, the HKS kit was developed tested and tuned in Japan, when it was brought state side, HKS USA added an intercooler. they got there CARB cert because the base kit maintains a cat.

 

How about 80% wrong? I need to reword my post..

If HKS USA had added an intercooler and retained the catalytic converter then I would say the kit was "retuned" in North America, not designed. My bad. I did think tho that HKS Japan sent a couple prototype kits to a couple guys in the USA to test them out with the changes.

So the kit from Japan was taken by HKS USA, retuned to be CARB legal, added an intercooler, and retained the cat. Those are pretty big changes IMO.

The 2 biggest things involved with any turbo setup is choosing the right turbo, and proper tuning.

My arguement for FELIX69 is that the HKS kit and T1R kits are not that different. Both use Garrett AR48 turbos, both use similar engine management units as well. The only real physical difference is that the T1R kit uses an external wastegate instead of an internal one.

Sure the T1R kit comes with bigger injectors, a test pipe and BOV, but those can all be added onto the HKS kit just like you have done.

We've been through this before and there's no need to re-open this debate.

I just wanted get my point across that if you're at 9-10psi on the HKS kit, there's nothing holding back the T1R kit to take the same 9-10psi with good tuning. Don't you agree?

 

i agree %100, my boosted friend

 

I believe the HKS uses an 0.63 A/R turbo, they are both Garrett T25s but they are not the same turbos.
The HKS spools quicker :-)

 

i thought the t1r turbo has ball bearings and the hks doesnt?
i wonder if it would be worth it to down size the turbo so it spools quicker since no one is going over 15lbs?

 

I'm excited to see what Yeefit puts down!

I'm still running with the 'stock' kit, but I've noticed I spike a little bit now that it's getting cold outside. I've hit 7.25 psi (according to emanage datalogs) on a cold day.

With my laptop and my wideband, though, that was no problem to tune out. It still holds about 6 psi when its over ~40F outside, though.

One thing I thought I should mention is that 'using your foot as a boost controller' is TERRIBLE IDEA.

I've determined that my fit stays in CLOSED LOOP up until ~90% throttle... What does the computer do in closed loop? It tunes for EXACTLY 14.7 AFR, and it does so with surprising efficiency. Any tuning I do goes right out the window if my foot isn't buried in it. You gotta remember, guys, we're using a piggyback controller, not a full standalone. The stock computer doesn't know anything about the boost you shove down its throat.

That said, I never let my car reach over 3 psi without committing to full boost. My wastegate is connected to a manifold source, so it'll keep on spooling until I hit ~6psi at the manifold, so I don't know about you guys but I'm NOT itching to find out how my motor likes full boost at 14-15 AFRs... 11.5 is just fine thank you.

I need the f-manage. That would fix it! Now, to save up the extra money for that on top of the clutch and motor mounts I need.

BTW - I hit 4th hard yesterday on the freeway on-ramp. Nuthin but clutch

oof.

 

here u might need these
eBay Motors: CP Pistons Honda Fit Jazz L15a Vtec 74mm 9.0:1 SC7039 (item 310095531604 end time Nov-03-08 09:24:14 PST)

Part # SC7039 -- 74mm Bore -- 9.0:1 Compression

 

i guess we will fine out how well it handles high boost on the Auto tranny..
going K24 next year anyways

 

Oh god... I'm gonna spooch! Those are pure sex...

 

can anyone confirm the company that makes those pistons?

 

right???? it makes me wana go yank my motor throw these in, crank up the boost and ass some meth. bet ill see 250 at the wheels.


wellll..... on second thought i dont know how much boost this turbo is good for i have heard about 16lbs before it drops off