KraftWerks Supercharger Kit Info v4.0
If you feel that it is running a little lean and you have gone to colder plugs, you might consider replacing the axle back pipe with the stock one and see if it helps.... If you are like everyone else you will probably upgrade to more boost and can go back to the axle back pipe that is now on it.... First thing is to check the plugs.
Straight pipe with 50mm piping should be more than adequate, you could always go and dyno check with yours against the 60mm skunk 2 setup. I don't really think there are much choices in terms of other exhaust systems.
I'd think the 50mm should do fine for what you guys are pushing.. the 60mm is really only going to buy you a little power when running a higher-powered turbo setup. It's mostly for spool time, which you won't need to worry about.
So right now, I'm trying to direct cold air from the cowl (by use of a scoop) towards the KWSC's filter on the opposite side. I'll probably fab something with fiberglass to work with the scoop I have now (or design a new one altogether) - but I was wondering if anyone knows if ABS piping will be okay to use in the space behind/above the engine (above the supercharger/header, across the length of the engine), or if I should use metal piping to direct the air? I ask because I have no idea if the ABS can handle the heat in that region. I'm thinking I'll also try connecting the air that used to be directed to the stock intake to the same piping to bring cold air from both the cowl scoop and the front lower grill/fender to the KWSC's filter.
If anyone has anything to say about what I'm planning I'd love to hear it.
If anyone has anything to say about what I'm planning I'd love to hear it.
PVC is cheap stuff so you won'be out much if it doesn't. You could wrap it in some insulation material that has a fire proof backing. I have been thinking about heat extractor that fits over the intake pipe and holds water that is pumped through it and recirculated through an old heater core or small radiator that is used as a cooling system add on, and is available at J.C.Whitney along with a pump made for use in R.V. sink..... AS soon as I complete the installation of the KWC I am off to the plumbing supply section . What I am thinking about would be smaller, cheaper and more effective than an air to air heat extractor that just uses air alone to cool in coming air, and would cost about $120.00 using new parts.
Good new I talked with Kraft Werks Yesterday and tell told me the hondata reflash and high boost kit are just about to be released. They said they made 175+ whp and 160 tq. All the way to the new redline- which they did not say what it was. I hope like 7200 rpm but i should have asked. The high boost kit use a small intercooler that goes under the hood and get air from a scoop that is like the ram air one made to go by the wind shield wipers. I do not know what other support mod that car had but thats pretty good. O and for the turbo guys If you made 175 whp on your first dyno pull and did not on the rest stop playing up your numbers.
Good new I talked with Kraft Werks Yesterday and tell told me the hondata reflash and high boost kit are just about to be released. They said they made 175+ whp and 160 tq. All the way to the new redline- which they did not say what it was. I hope like 7200 rpm but i should have asked. The high boost kit use a small intercooler that goes under the hood and get air from a scoop that is like the ram air one made to go by the wind shield wipers. I do not know what other support mod that car had but thats pretty good. O and for the turbo guys If you made 175 whp on your first dyno pull and did not on the rest stop playing up your numbers.

Can't wait(even though I have an A/T)!
So right now, I'm trying to direct cold air from the cowl (by use of a scoop) towards the KWSC's filter on the opposite side. I'll probably fab something with fiberglass to work with the scoop I have now (or design a new one altogether) - but I was wondering if anyone knows if ABS piping will be okay to use in the space behind/above the engine (above the supercharger/header, across the length of the engine), or if I should use metal piping to direct the air? I ask because I have no idea if the ABS can handle the heat in that region. I'm thinking I'll also try connecting the air that used to be directed to the stock intake to the same piping to bring cold air from both the cowl scoop and the front lower grill/fender to the KWSC's filter.
If anyone has anything to say about what I'm planning I'd love to hear it.
If anyone has anything to say about what I'm planning I'd love to hear it.
If you look at the prototype kit on JDMChris's car they routed the charge piping around the back of the engine bay. The kit as it is now obviously is routed around the front. The only reason I can think to do that would be to allow the air moving into the engine bay to cool the charge piping. The output of the supercharger is 1.75" that is stepped up to 2.5" when it crosses over the front of the IM (fits on the TB) this change in diameter probably also helps with cooling.
I would really like to see an aftercooler. A little water-to-air could fit right in the location of the stock air box, just need to find a new location for the oil reservoir. Obviously they designed the kit not to need one so it's safe without it. The piping does get pretty warm after a good drive.
Consider that if you're running 12 psi on pump gas without an intercooler. Timing will most likely (I have no experience with this engine) be retarded a few degrees to prevent detonation. So let's say 5-6 degrees which will probably make you loose around 20-30 hp Making the final numbers more like 135 versus the 165 you'd have with an intercooler.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that the addition of an intercooler is logical with the release of the high boost kit so it's more competitive with the T1R kit.
Good new I talked with Kraft Werks Yesterday and tell told me the hondata reflash and high boost kit are just about to be released. They said they made 175+ whp and 160 tq. All the way to the new redline- which they did not say what it was. I hope like 7200 rpm but i should have asked. The high boost kit use a small intercooler that goes under the hood and get air from a scoop that is like the ram air one made to go by the wind shield wipers. I do not know what other support mod that car had but thats pretty good. O and for the turbo guys If you made 175 whp on your first dyno pull and did not on the rest stop playing up your numbers.
I'm not sure if it's worth the trouble. Any cold air you push towards the filter is going to be a loss to the rest of the engine bay (might get a little warmer in there with less air flow). It'll probably negate any gains you might have seen. Getting colder air into the supercharger could help but it also means the supercharger will just warm it up faster. Which is why people usually aftercool FI setups.
If you look at the prototype kit on JDMChris's car they routed the charge piping around the back of the engine bay. The kit as it is now obviously is routed around the front. The only reason I can think to do that would be to allow the air moving into the engine bay to cool the charge piping. The output of the supercharger is 1.75" that is stepped up to 2.5" when it crosses over the front of the IM (fits on the TB) this change in diameter probably also helps with cooling.
I would really like to see an aftercooler. A little water-to-air could fit right in the location of the stock air box, just need to find a new location for the oil reservoir. Obviously they designed the kit not to need one so it's safe without it. The piping does get pretty warm after a good drive.
Consider that if you're running 12 psi on pump gas without an intercooler. Timing will most likely (I have no experience with this engine) be retarded a few degrees to prevent detonation. So let's say 5-6 degrees which will probably make you loose around 20-30 hp Making the final numbers more like 135 versus the 165 you'd have with an intercooler.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that the addition of an intercooler is logical with the release of the high boost kit so it's more competitive with the T1R kit.
If you look at the prototype kit on JDMChris's car they routed the charge piping around the back of the engine bay. The kit as it is now obviously is routed around the front. The only reason I can think to do that would be to allow the air moving into the engine bay to cool the charge piping. The output of the supercharger is 1.75" that is stepped up to 2.5" when it crosses over the front of the IM (fits on the TB) this change in diameter probably also helps with cooling.
I would really like to see an aftercooler. A little water-to-air could fit right in the location of the stock air box, just need to find a new location for the oil reservoir. Obviously they designed the kit not to need one so it's safe without it. The piping does get pretty warm after a good drive.
Consider that if you're running 12 psi on pump gas without an intercooler. Timing will most likely (I have no experience with this engine) be retarded a few degrees to prevent detonation. So let's say 5-6 degrees which will probably make you loose around 20-30 hp Making the final numbers more like 135 versus the 165 you'd have with an intercooler.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that the addition of an intercooler is logical with the release of the high boost kit so it's more competitive with the T1R kit.
I can't see how they can not use the air to water to air method for heat dissipation in such a small space.... 175 HP sounds reasonable to me. I was getting ready to start working on my own heat extractor, but I will wait to see what is coming out.
Ive been running the highboost kit with no IC for awhile with no ill affects. Piping heats up a bit, but anything under the hood heats up and its no where near the extent of a turbo. The new IC looks amazing!
Agreed, I got to see a peek when I was over there. Definitely a setup worth looking at once they officially announce/release it, I'd get it if there were a highboost for AT.
Well, is it an air to air, or air to liquid to air design?.... I don't care if it is pretty, how effective is it, and how much money am I going to have to shell out?..... Now I have to return to the barn and complete the installation of the 5 Lb. boost unit. It is two hours till my next beer break.
Well, is it an air to air, or air to liquid to air design?.... I don't care if it is pretty, how effective is it, and how much money am I going to have to shell out?..... Now I have to return to the barn and complete the installation of the 5 Lb. boost unit. It is two hours till my next beer break.




