Damn thats impressive. I miss boost very much. I'm a huge fan of the SOHC underdog. I ran a sohc turbo set-up in my e.g. 5 years ago pushing close to 500whp. That thing was a beast.

Its just the power to $ that i'm wondering what I want to do. The hi boost kit & K swap are roughly the same price. I know I would need a few extra for the K swap like k-pro & axles, but figuring the price I can get the K20A for it about evens out.

The only bad thing w/ the L15A is to get into 200+ is the extras for all the bolt ons. Plus this engine is maxed out w/o opening it up, where the K20A is stock push nearly the same numbers. I now these are 2 different beasts & angles i'm comparing.

In the end its all a money pit.

 

Not even close to accurate.

 

mnFit said it was $10000 to $15000 to do the K20 swap but he had it done by a shop.. I have around $6000 including exhaust, hood louvers, and things I have yet installed to pick up a little more power and longevity of the engine and drive train.... DiamondStarMonster will get around to creating a turbo boosted terror of a hatchback once he completes his many other projects.... He knows a lot both in theory and practical application as well as where to find parts cheaply priced...If you can understand the info he is putting out you will be making far more power than I am.... There are after market upgrade parts to replace what breaks at what seems to be 15PSI or a little lower at high RPM.

 

I have a good shop here in SD that will give me a good deal. I've came across k's for really good prices in the past, but i'm sure now that I want one it will be hard to come across. I'd figure like 7-8k for the swap. Again my situation is different. All & all its not cheap.

Theres always a price to pay for HP & there is no easy way to achieve that. I've spent upwards of $15k on the engine/drivetrain combo alone on my last SOHC build years ago so I know this game all to well. Time for another job hahaha.

 

I'd be happy to design and source a setup for you for an agreeable price, Mr. Moneybags.

I do this sort of contracting routinely, and I don't charge much because this is my obsession.

You can make an even 500whp in a Fit and get it to the ground for far less than 15k, I assure you. Some parts are currently on back order because of the volume of L15 builds at the moment. By mid-March shelves are expected to be stocked again.

Our drivetrain support is not incredible, but there are at least two L15A's making more than 400whp, both are on stock gearboxes. Many more are DDing between 200-300whp at the moment around the world, about a dozen are of my designs.

As long as you aren't constantly launching/powershifting and can clutch worth a damn they hold up to the abuse.

 

I was look for Honda crate motors and found this site. http://racing.honda.com/hpd/parts/#f...a&s=%3E%24&p=1

 

I want that drysump system. Bad.

 

@ DiamondStarMonsters

I'm def not trying to repeat that beast again, nor do I even have the money to try that again. I spent nearly $15k on a set-up that I never got to run due to medical issues. But that SOHC would have def ran over 700HP when I was done. It was a personal goal back in 2007 to have the first SOHC pushing over 700HP & have a 9sec ET on a "street class" civic.

Anyways I would love to see 500+ fits. BE so rad. To me this car is my DD now. That civic was my race car. I just want something fun to rip around in. I also travel a bunch. I want to know that there is something dependable under the hood that I can drive 2000 miles & not worry. A stock k will do that. I'm sure the Kraftwerks kits are reliable, but I would worry drive across the country on something aftermarket boosted.

 

Do some reading on Oscar Jackson and the development of the KWSC kit. It is OE quality.

If you are worried about an aftermarket FI kit, you did it wrong.

How do you know your Civic pushed "close to 500" let alone 700? I've met a lot of people that say this sort of thing. Dyno sheets? Time slips?

There is a whole world of difference between having the parts to make 500 or 700, and then actually hitting those numbers. Even on a dyno that reads high, like a DynoJet.

Describe your setup for us please. Not saying I'm skeptical.. but I am skeptical.

I know what it takes to break into the 9's and make 700+ whp with small displacement motors.. Very few people appreciate or understand what that entails. Saying is one thing, doing is another.

Maybe start your own thread, I am sure many people here would enjoy that and any experience in that neighborhood is always welcome as so few people here actually push their projects.

Surely you have some pictures from such a setup?

 

It would definitely unleash some Hp with better oil control.

 

I drove 250 miles to and from for Christmas without any kind of worry... I have had the KWSC on my car since spring of 2009 and the only additional maintenance was readjusting the belt after changing from the base kit to the high boost upgrade.... It has been driven close to 600 miles in a day a few times and 200+ mile days are pretty common... I have had no problems so far in 22000 miles of all kinds of driving... The exhaust noise is the only thing that bothers me but not so much that I turn the volume down unless I feel like I may be pulled over for excessive noise....It pulls well at low RPM and it takes very little throttle to keep up with traffic.... My wife says that it isn't really all that loud and prefers traveling in the Fit over her low mileage 2009 Forester.

 

The old set-up ran 481whp & ran 10.7 at 135mph. I'm sure some are very familiar w/ the car. It was the old full race "pinks" civic. My friend won that car from that race & I took it off his hands. That pushed 460whp & we re-tweaked it & got a few more ponies out of it. For more info on the "pinks" car here you go: Full-Race "Pinks" SOHC Drag Civic

I def. understand there is a huge difference from 10.7 to 9.9. I know one person that achieved into the 9's on a SOHC in 2008. He was pushing I believe close to 600whp on his SOHC w/ a gt35r. He was running in HOTROD class. Keep in mind I put the interior back in the car to run street class.

 

Here are some pics of the new engine set-up & car. This is all I could find due to computers crash & losing a lot of pics:






Some basics to the build:

Block:
- AEBS close deck sleeves
- Pauter rods
- CP 10.5:1 pistons
- ARP head studs & bolts

Head:
- All Ferrera valve train
- Crower custom turbo cam
- Skunk2 cam gear
- More head work done on top of everything full race did

Intake manifold:
- Full Race custom

Turbo manifold:
- Speed Machine custom top mount w/ t4 flange & dual waste gates

Turbo:
- Garrett GT42R

I can go on & on but this gives you an idea of what was going on. As I started this project in late 2007 into 2008 around March 2008 some had hit the 700+ who on a D16. I believe it was like 721whp & there was more room he said.

 

Do you still get the CEL after a few hours of driving or do you pull over and restart the car? I am liking the fact that your running 10 pounds of boost and no problems and still getting good mpg.

 

I still haven't fixed the CEL but I have what I need to take care of it.. If there is ever a problem the Scan Gauge will let me know about it... Hopefully I'll be able to get the other stuff I have scattered around put on it at least by summer.. The problem is that I keep picking up more things.

 

That is good. I would also do what I said down load a program either the s300 or kpro and even flash pro on your lap top and get a USB with OBDII connector and plug it in and see what program works. Hondata put something in your ecu that can be reprogrammed and rent some dyno time and fine tune the tune.

 

Glen, I don't know if the reflash included an ability to make changes to the ECU... If it starts looking like I will need to make changes I guess I can check with Hondata and find out if and how I go about doing it.

 

I am also 100 percent certain its tune-able now. That is what the speed shops does, buy and install the chip and use a computer to tune. I would call a speed shop first and tell them what you got.

 

Out of curiousity, what codes are coming up when the CEL comes on?

 

It's related to the 02 sensor... Just removing the ground wire from the battery for about 20 minutes and hooking it back up is good for 50 miles or so of driving so I do that when inspection time comes around.. With the base kit there is no problem with the CEL, the high boost 10psi upgrade is what lights up the CEL.