KraftWerks Supercharger Kit Info v4.0
I have never owned a super charged car before. When you say "discipline yourself to not get on the boost", what do you mean? Does the supercharger only kick in when you put the pedal to the metal?
I've read a lot of posts in this thread about higher engine temperatures, and some Fits requiring the intercooler package. Since I will be driving through the New Mexico desert a lot, as well as just sitting in Los Angeles traffic quite a bit, I would imagine the supercharger would shorten the life of the engine simply through the rise in engine temperature.
I want to do it sooooo bad, but I've got reservations. I would love to hear from people that live in Los Angeles, sit in traffic to and from work, and have been using he super charger for over a year. Any issues?
I've read a lot of posts in this thread about higher engine temperatures, and some Fits requiring the intercooler package. Since I will be driving through the New Mexico desert a lot, as well as just sitting in Los Angeles traffic quite a bit, I would imagine the supercharger would shorten the life of the engine simply through the rise in engine temperature.
I want to do it sooooo bad, but I've got reservations. I would love to hear from people that live in Los Angeles, sit in traffic to and from work, and have been using he super charger for over a year. Any issues?
Your concerns are understandable. Nobody wants more headaches.
Your engine will be fine running the KraftWerks supercharger kit. Compared to some of the Miatas we have been working on, your 97K engine is brand new. For example, our red O-REX race car we just completed has an all original engine with 150,000+ miles on it. The car has sat for the last 5+ years. We drained what it had for oil and put Torco oil in, and supercharged it. We took it out to Laguna Seca and tested for an entire weekend with no issues.
The open air filter makes the Rotrex impeller able to be heard at idle and radio off, but it is very slight. There is basically no noise coming from the unit.
The bypass valve system diverts boosted air at idle and cruise speeds so you continue to get good mileage and cruise speed drivability. It is vacuum-based and the performance is seamless. The jolting or anything. It just feels like a bigger engine was put in your car. What TC is trying to say is, if you are cruising and highway speed, you will get good mileage. If you hot rod around town and are on the gas, mileage decrease.
Some posts can be confusing regarding temperatures. You have intake air temperature and engine coolant temperature. The intercooler cools the intake air temperatures, not the engine. Intake temps naturally rise and fall depending on air movement, including if you are recirculating at cruise or wide open throttle. If you are doing minimal movement and are in stop and go traffic, your intake temps go up. This is not your engine overheating, it is the air entering the engine heating up. As you start to move, they cool back down. The stop and go traffic intake temps will not damage or hurt your engine.
It sounds like most of your concerns are stop and go traffic performance. To put it simply- The car will perform just like a stock car in stop and go traffic... Then you smack the throttle to pass someone and you will smile.
-Oscar Jr.
Derek,
Your concerns are understandable. Nobody wants more headaches.
Your engine will be fine running the KraftWerks supercharger kit. Compared to some of the Miatas we have been working on, your 97K engine is brand new. For example, our red O-REX race car we just completed has an all original engine with 150,000+ miles on it. The car has sat for the last 5+ years. We drained what it had for oil and put Torco oil in, and supercharged it. We took it out to Laguna Seca and tested for an entire weekend with no issues.
The open air filter makes the Rotrex impeller able to be heard at idle and radio off, but it is very slight. There is basically no noise coming from the unit.
The bypass valve system diverts boosted air at idle and cruise speeds so you continue to get good mileage and cruise speed drivability. It is vacuum-based and the performance is seamless. The jolting or anything. It just feels like a bigger engine was put in your car. What TC is trying to say is, if you are cruising and highway speed, you will get good mileage. If you hot rod around town and are on the gas, mileage decrease.
Some posts can be confusing regarding temperatures. You have intake air temperature and engine coolant temperature. The intercooler cools the intake air temperatures, not the engine. Intake temps naturally rise and fall depending on air movement, including if you are recirculating at cruise or wide open throttle. If you are doing minimal movement and are in stop and go traffic, your intake temps go up. This is not your engine overheating, it is the air entering the engine heating up. As you start to move, they cool back down. The stop and go traffic intake temps will not damage or hurt your engine.
It sounds like most of your concerns are stop and go traffic performance. To put it simply- The car will perform just like a stock car in stop and go traffic... Then you smack the throttle to pass someone and you will smile.
-Oscar Jr.
Your concerns are understandable. Nobody wants more headaches.
Your engine will be fine running the KraftWerks supercharger kit. Compared to some of the Miatas we have been working on, your 97K engine is brand new. For example, our red O-REX race car we just completed has an all original engine with 150,000+ miles on it. The car has sat for the last 5+ years. We drained what it had for oil and put Torco oil in, and supercharged it. We took it out to Laguna Seca and tested for an entire weekend with no issues.
The open air filter makes the Rotrex impeller able to be heard at idle and radio off, but it is very slight. There is basically no noise coming from the unit.
The bypass valve system diverts boosted air at idle and cruise speeds so you continue to get good mileage and cruise speed drivability. It is vacuum-based and the performance is seamless. The jolting or anything. It just feels like a bigger engine was put in your car. What TC is trying to say is, if you are cruising and highway speed, you will get good mileage. If you hot rod around town and are on the gas, mileage decrease.
Some posts can be confusing regarding temperatures. You have intake air temperature and engine coolant temperature. The intercooler cools the intake air temperatures, not the engine. Intake temps naturally rise and fall depending on air movement, including if you are recirculating at cruise or wide open throttle. If you are doing minimal movement and are in stop and go traffic, your intake temps go up. This is not your engine overheating, it is the air entering the engine heating up. As you start to move, they cool back down. The stop and go traffic intake temps will not damage or hurt your engine.
It sounds like most of your concerns are stop and go traffic performance. To put it simply- The car will perform just like a stock car in stop and go traffic... Then you smack the throttle to pass someone and you will smile.
-Oscar Jr.
You should ask JDMchris. I think hes had the KWSC for the longest. He should be able to give accurate numbers if he drives the car daily. I think I remember him saying that he was getting roughly 27-28 driving with the pedal to the metal(I could be wrong, could be 27-28 regular driving). But if you can keep yourself from boosting you should be getting roughly normal mpg.
Last edited by AnlDyxp_GD3; Apr 20, 2010 at 02:18 PM.
Help
I am buying an '08 Fit in a few days and I plan on supercharging it soon. I was planning on buying an automatic but since it doesn't come with the higher powered s/c I might go for the m/t. Can anyone tell me if the automatic s/c setup is significant enough, or should I step it up for m/t. Thanks, especially to anyone who has tested both.
I am buying an '08 Fit in a few days and I plan on supercharging it soon. I was planning on buying an automatic but since it doesn't come with the higher powered s/c I might go for the m/t. Can anyone tell me if the automatic s/c setup is significant enough, or should I step it up for m/t. Thanks, especially to anyone who has tested both.
I searched through this entire thread but must have missed the numbers ... can anyone tell me what HP/ TQ figures the KraftWerks High Boost kit puts down on the dyno? Is it available for the GE (2009 - 2011) Fit? Thanks.
Update:
Nevermind, I found the answer. I guess it's not available for the GE yet, too bad.
Update:
Nevermind, I found the answer. I guess it's not available for the GE yet, too bad.
Last edited by XJP5; Apr 2, 2011 at 02:13 PM.
I searched through this entire thread but must have missed the numbers ... can anyone tell me what HP/ TQ figures the KraftWerks High Boost kit puts down on the dyno? Is it available for the GE (2009 - 2011) Fit? Thanks.
Update:
Nevermind, I found the answer. I guess it's not available for the GE yet, too bad.

Update:
Nevermind, I found the answer. I guess it's not available for the GE yet, too bad.

They will not be releasing a GE kit.
Call up Sprintex for their positive displacement blower.
Full boost immediately = more torque.
You should get a Fit with manual transmission if you are going to use the KWSC kit... I haven't any experience with the automatic but have with both the base kit and high boost kit on my 2007 GD with manual transmission. Like has been said before about the base kit "it feels like you have a larger engine under the hood"... With the high boost kit and free flowing exhaust you know you are driving a hot rod... I am at this time experiencing some oil blow by that can be dealt with by using a higher viscosity motor oil and or a catch can... It isn't so bad that I am using a lot of oil but there is tiny spots of oil on the rear bumper and hatch if I drive on full boost at high RPM and speed... That is common even on brand new Fits that are not boosted that have the catalytic converter in place but the cat burns it off instead of letting it exit the pipe in the form of light mist.... In the almost 2 years I have had the KWSC product on my car I have had to slightly tighten the drive belt twice and clean the intake filter when it was needed... I also have to rotate my tires frequently and it appears that I will also need to do the WindowWeld fix on my front motor mount due to the difference in power output... It is very hot here in the summer time and even last week the temperature here was in the low 90s so I will be installing a 7" fan under the KWSC intercooler so the IAT will be no higher than the ambient temperature and a water/methanol injection kit to lower it more and raise the octane level in the combustion chambers.... It isn't a necessity that I do so but I think it will make an improvement in power, fuel mileage and increased engine longevity.
I can't wait to see what your car does on meth!
Thanks DSM, good to know. I'll check into the Sprintex option. I just need more info on how they're going to manage fuel and ECU functions. I like the Hondata reflash through KraftWerks. That's a shame they won't pursue the GE. I wonder what is turning these tuners away from these latest generation Fits?
Thanks DSM, good to know. I'll check into the Sprintex option. I just need more info on how they're going to manage fuel and ECU functions. I like the Hondata reflash through KraftWerks. That's a shame they won't pursue the GE. I wonder what is turning these tuners away from these latest generation Fits?
The GE owners and their attitudes are what turn them off.. nothing personal and I am not talking about you specifically.
The market is just not there.
Everyone says they'll buy it till the time comes. Then 1 in 10 actually throws down the money for it.
On top of that it is just not worth their while to have somebody screw up the install or misdiagnose an issue and then go on an internet bashing campaign.
People start screaming about recalls and lawsuits over dead batteries here..
One afternoon searching on this forum would turn me away as a tuner or manufacturer. It will take years before the second gen L-series gets the support that the GD's do, if ever.
Even then neither GD or GE will see the market that the B/D/H/K series engines have developed.

That is until they see enough people going DIY, which is what I am trying to prod folks in to doing.
But nearly everyone here wants bolt on instant gratification bits that require no thinking or learning.
Which almost inevitably end up a compromise and mediocre to appeal to the lowest common denominator, who arguably shouldn't be modifying their cars anyways.
Truthfully?
The GE owners and their attitudes are what turn them off.. nothing personal and I am not talking about you specifically.
The market is just not there.
Everyone says they'll buy it till the time comes. Then 1 in 10 actually throws down the money for it.
On top of that it is just not worth their while to have somebody screw up the install or misdiagnose an issue and then go on an internet bashing campaign.
People start screaming about recalls and lawsuits over dead batteries here..
One afternoon searching on this forum would turn me away as a tuner or manufacturer.
It will take years before the second gen L-series gets the support that the GD's do, if ever.
Even then neither GD or GE will see the market that the B/D/H/K series engines have developed.
That is until they see enough people going DIY, which is what I am trying to prod folks in to doing.
But nearly everyone here wants bolt on instant gratification bits that require no thinking or learning.
Which almost inevitably end up a compromise and mediocre to appeal to the lowest common denominator, who arguably shouldn't be modifying their cars anyways.
The GE owners and their attitudes are what turn them off.. nothing personal and I am not talking about you specifically.
The market is just not there.
Everyone says they'll buy it till the time comes. Then 1 in 10 actually throws down the money for it.
On top of that it is just not worth their while to have somebody screw up the install or misdiagnose an issue and then go on an internet bashing campaign.
People start screaming about recalls and lawsuits over dead batteries here..
One afternoon searching on this forum would turn me away as a tuner or manufacturer. It will take years before the second gen L-series gets the support that the GD's do, if ever.
Even then neither GD or GE will see the market that the B/D/H/K series engines have developed.

That is until they see enough people going DIY, which is what I am trying to prod folks in to doing.
But nearly everyone here wants bolt on instant gratification bits that require no thinking or learning.
Which almost inevitably end up a compromise and mediocre to appeal to the lowest common denominator, who arguably shouldn't be modifying their cars anyways.
Does it really make that much difference with out having to do changes to the tune? I remember that you said the ECU would work it out... I hope it does some good.
Thought you picked up an FIC?
I had purchased the F/IC prior to getting the 10PSI upgrade and still have it.. I haven't picked up the Boomslang harness for it yet... If I have good results from the water/methanol kit without needing it I might decide not to use it... I am slowing down a lot lately and already have a lot of stuff I need to be doing and I am a little leery of using the F/IC with the KWSC kit. There have been a few that have but none of them seemed to work out well. I spoke with Oscar Jr. about the AEM F/IC when I upgraded and he said they couldn't get it to work for them even with AEM techs working with them on it...
I had purchased the F/IC prior to getting the 10PSI upgrade and still have it.. I haven't picked up the Boomslang harness for it yet... If I have good results from the water/methanol kit without needing it I might decide not to use it... I am slowing down a lot lately and already have a lot of stuff I need to be doing and I am a little leery of using the F/IC with the KWSC kit. There have been a few that have but none of them seemed to work out well. I spoke with Oscar Jr. about the AEM F/IC when I upgraded and he said they couldn't get it to work for them even with AEM techs working with them on it...
Works just fine on my car, I'm on 10psi too now BTW... I can send you my map as our cars are almost the same except I'm on bigger injectors and race header. I could scale the fuel back before I send to you.
My only limitation is the rev limit now... I think I'm going to sell off the FIC+boomslang and go AEM full standalone. I talked to boomslang about a custom harness. I might delete DBW and go to a throttle cable throttle body while im at it, but I'll save all that for another thread! BTW all that work your going to to keep your IAT's cool... just ditch that top mount and go front mount. I should have a setup in a month or so...
Works just fine on my car, I'm on 10psi too now BTW... I can send you my map as our cars are almost the same except I'm on bigger injectors and race header. I could scale the fuel back before I send to you.
My only limitation is the rev limit now... I think I'm going to sell off the FIC+boomslang and go AEM full standalone. I talked to boomslang about a custom harness. I might delete DBW and go to a throttle cable throttle body while im at it, but I'll save all that for another thread! BTW all that work your going to to keep your IAT's cool... just ditch that top mount and go front mount. I should have a setup in a month or so...
My only limitation is the rev limit now... I think I'm going to sell off the FIC+boomslang and go AEM full standalone. I talked to boomslang about a custom harness. I might delete DBW and go to a throttle cable throttle body while im at it, but I'll save all that for another thread! BTW all that work your going to to keep your IAT's cool... just ditch that top mount and go front mount. I should have a setup in a month or so...
Regarding TC's water/meth kit, it is not a whole lot of work. Even if it were, the results are worth it for many reasons. Any intercooler will still suffer from heat soak where he lives.
Liquid charge cooling AND a bump in octane make for huge gains compared to the cost and perceived hassle. He will be able to pack in way more air and the ECU will be able to run a much more aggressive timing and fueling scheme

Race gas results for pump prices. They are easy to upgrade as well.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Apr 27, 2011 at 10:29 PM.



