Mileage reports: Manual transmission (5MT)
#1381
I have a tiny bit, but I need to be nice to my commuter. Someday I'll get back into an e28 or e30 (my dream toy). I'm lucky enough to have a sportbike, which I rode for the first time in a while today. That'll do for now!!
#1383
430 Miles into owning my 2011 Base MT and I am at 36.7 according to the onboard computer. I've filled it up twice and that seems about right. I must say I'm impressed with how little the car gives up to achieve that.
#1389
1300+ miles on mine and I'm about to finish tank #4. So far it's at 32.9 on this tank, which isn't bad because I have been getting on it a lot more then in the 1st 3 tanks. For the first 3 tanks I really didn't get on it much - not because I was trying to break it in easy, I just was trying drive like a normal human being
Edit 4/28/13 - this tank ended up showing 32.9mpg on the computer, 34.0 mpg actual
Edit 4/28/13 - this tank ended up showing 32.9mpg on the computer, 34.0 mpg actual
Last edited by MPA; 04-28-2013 at 12:05 PM.
#1390
Tis weekend continue to climb now at 32.2 mpg the first 2,000 miles in the winter was runnuing at between 31.1 to 31.5. Now on the second 2,000 it has increased to 32.2 mpg which means from 31.1 to 32.2. Without resetting I must have really jump in mpg.
#1392
New avatar: Same drive without the wind and a little bit less traffic.....
#1395
Doing an update from previous changes.
--Fake PRM intake. $15 on ebay for a 2.5IN coupler and 2.5IN filter
-increased throttle response, slight gain in power. Peak power probably wasnt effected, but midrange power is indeed increased.
--Removed rear seats
-I dont drive more then one passenger around, so removing 80-85 pounds increased handling response and the effect on ride height was nice. slightly higher in rear, slightly lower in front from moving weight balance towards front more.
The ride height changes effected air drag on highway, made it slightly more stable, and constant driving mileage increased
My driving style, environment, distances, and weight of my right foot all show an increase in average fuel economy. How much is still waiting to be determined, but I would guess any situation just got a 1-3mpg increase
--Fake PRM intake. $15 on ebay for a 2.5IN coupler and 2.5IN filter
-increased throttle response, slight gain in power. Peak power probably wasnt effected, but midrange power is indeed increased.
--Removed rear seats
-I dont drive more then one passenger around, so removing 80-85 pounds increased handling response and the effect on ride height was nice. slightly higher in rear, slightly lower in front from moving weight balance towards front more.
The ride height changes effected air drag on highway, made it slightly more stable, and constant driving mileage increased
My driving style, environment, distances, and weight of my right foot all show an increase in average fuel economy. How much is still waiting to be determined, but I would guess any situation just got a 1-3mpg increase
#1396
So i thought i posted this yesterday! Oh well. Here goes again! Im a long time creeper here, and since I finally bought my fit i thought i'd register. Its a black 2013 m/t and my first brand new car ^_^ Im upgrading from a 2000 accord that had a bunch of problems.
Anyway when i got into the car i found myself pretty enamoured with the mpg approximation computer. I already have pretty good driving habits, but my old car had so many issues it really limited how economical i could be.
Im loving driving my fit! I draft if the opportunity presents itself. I often coast in gear if i need to slow down, or in neutral if i'm able to. I dont really pulse and glide much as my commute is all rolling hill that prevent much gliding. The best method, as repeated many times here is definitely to have a light foot. Its much easier to keep track of though with the mpg guestimate on screen.
A huge thing i have started doing which i didnt before is coasting or maintaining speed in 4th or 5th at lower speeds. I didnt realize how much this effected mpg, but gliding along in 5th at 35 or so really saves gas compared to 3rd, which is where I would have been in my old accord. Great advice!
I guess the only technique i shy away from is fas, i did do it from time to time in my old car, so its not that im not confident from a safety perspective. Im more worried about causing mechanical damage to my shiny new vehicle or draining the battery (i usually have the radio on) without it being charged by the alternator.
If I were to FAS, I put it in neutral, key to I1, back to I2, and then just shift into the appropriate gear and engage the clutch to bump start it right? Im a little fuzzy on the best method and the one that puts the least strain on my engine and transmission...despite doing a lot of research.
Anyways right now im right around 38 mog, and thats rising with each commute as I get the feel of the car. I pumped my tires up to 45 psi as well which had a very noticable improvement in free coasting ability. Ive still got about a quarter tank left, and I'm pretty excited to calculate my actual results. I'll report back when I do!!
Glad to be a part of the community ^_^
Anyway when i got into the car i found myself pretty enamoured with the mpg approximation computer. I already have pretty good driving habits, but my old car had so many issues it really limited how economical i could be.
Im loving driving my fit! I draft if the opportunity presents itself. I often coast in gear if i need to slow down, or in neutral if i'm able to. I dont really pulse and glide much as my commute is all rolling hill that prevent much gliding. The best method, as repeated many times here is definitely to have a light foot. Its much easier to keep track of though with the mpg guestimate on screen.
A huge thing i have started doing which i didnt before is coasting or maintaining speed in 4th or 5th at lower speeds. I didnt realize how much this effected mpg, but gliding along in 5th at 35 or so really saves gas compared to 3rd, which is where I would have been in my old accord. Great advice!
I guess the only technique i shy away from is fas, i did do it from time to time in my old car, so its not that im not confident from a safety perspective. Im more worried about causing mechanical damage to my shiny new vehicle or draining the battery (i usually have the radio on) without it being charged by the alternator.
If I were to FAS, I put it in neutral, key to I1, back to I2, and then just shift into the appropriate gear and engage the clutch to bump start it right? Im a little fuzzy on the best method and the one that puts the least strain on my engine and transmission...despite doing a lot of research.
Anyways right now im right around 38 mog, and thats rising with each commute as I get the feel of the car. I pumped my tires up to 45 psi as well which had a very noticable improvement in free coasting ability. Ive still got about a quarter tank left, and I'm pretty excited to calculate my actual results. I'll report back when I do!!
Glad to be a part of the community ^_^
#1397
I guess the only technique i shy away from is fas, i did do it from time to time in my old car, so its not that im not confident from a safety perspective. Im more worried about causing mechanical damage to my shiny new vehicle or draining the battery (i usually have the radio on) without it being charged by the alternator.
If I were to FAS, I put it in neutral, key to I1, back to I2, and then just shift into the appropriate gear and engage the clutch to bump start it right? Im a little fuzzy on the best method and the one that puts the least strain on my engine and transmission...despite doing a lot of research.
If I were to FAS, I put it in neutral, key to I1, back to I2, and then just shift into the appropriate gear and engage the clutch to bump start it right? Im a little fuzzy on the best method and the one that puts the least strain on my engine and transmission...despite doing a lot of research.
For the thread: Just returned from a trip from SF-LA-SF and returned 35.4 mpg with 80mph cruising speed there and 70mph cruising speed back (traffic). This includes in-city driving in LA and many "passing events", WOT redline onramp merges, etc on the interstate. I didn't pay much mind to fuel economy except my usual traffic habits that are economy oriented, but automatic.
I was expecting a bit worse.
#1398
Just pulse and glide instead. When you're off-throttle the injectors turn off anyway, so you're not using any fuel when you're "gliding". If you have rolling hills just stay in gear and off throttle on the downhill, don't use neutral. You will use fuel in neutral. Turning the motor off is dangerous. I'm not even going to debate FAS because I think it's an extremely stupid thing to do to save a buck.
For the thread: Just returned from a trip from SF-LA-SF and returned 35.4 mpg with 80mph cruising speed there and 70mph cruising speed back (traffic). This includes in-city driving in LA and many "passing events", WOT redline onramp merges, etc on the interstate. I didn't pay much mind to fuel economy except my usual traffic habits that are economy oriented, but automatic.
I was expecting a bit worse.
For the thread: Just returned from a trip from SF-LA-SF and returned 35.4 mpg with 80mph cruising speed there and 70mph cruising speed back (traffic). This includes in-city driving in LA and many "passing events", WOT redline onramp merges, etc on the interstate. I didn't pay much mind to fuel economy except my usual traffic habits that are economy oriented, but automatic.
I was expecting a bit worse.
Also, do i want to accelerate relatively quickly for the "pulse"? Or should i try to keep the real time mpg's around 40? Seems like thats babying it too much to be useful.
Im going to avoid fas, i feel like the digital components would get messed up from having the mechanical components run while theyre off. (Trip meter, etc).
Anyway thanks in advance for any insight!!
#1399
Your hill problem is very unique, so not sure how to deal with that.
Generally would stay in 4th at very low throttle uphill and upshift to 5th on the downhill and stay off throttle. If your hills never end I don't know what to tell you I know some people do a quick accel and let off (I can understand why), I personally just modulate the throttle fairly quickly (unconsciously) and stay within a small speed window (+/- 5mph) Proper gear is important.
I suppose when it comes to downhill staying in 5th off-throttle and quick blips to maintain speed if the downgrade isn't steep enough is probably just as good as going to neutral, and safer to boot. The only time i'll coast in neutral is if i'm rolling downhill on an onramp waiting in line at a meter.
Personally, I am not a fan of hypermiling, I think a lot of the techniques are dangerous and annoying. I just drive the car as it was meant to be driven, but practice efficiency.
- Proper gear for speed and situation
- Maintain momentum
- Avoid Braking (especially coming to a full stop)
- engine brake when possible in a gear that will take you to the stop, without using the brakes (if that makes sense?). A lot of times my brake lights don't come on until i'm almost stopped already, i'm sure other drivers hate that but w/e, I try to give a warning tap in advance to wake them up.
Just remember: Engine load, not RPM. Don't use the middle pedal unless you have to.
Generally would stay in 4th at very low throttle uphill and upshift to 5th on the downhill and stay off throttle. If your hills never end I don't know what to tell you I know some people do a quick accel and let off (I can understand why), I personally just modulate the throttle fairly quickly (unconsciously) and stay within a small speed window (+/- 5mph) Proper gear is important.
I suppose when it comes to downhill staying in 5th off-throttle and quick blips to maintain speed if the downgrade isn't steep enough is probably just as good as going to neutral, and safer to boot. The only time i'll coast in neutral is if i'm rolling downhill on an onramp waiting in line at a meter.
Personally, I am not a fan of hypermiling, I think a lot of the techniques are dangerous and annoying. I just drive the car as it was meant to be driven, but practice efficiency.
- Proper gear for speed and situation
- Maintain momentum
- Avoid Braking (especially coming to a full stop)
- engine brake when possible in a gear that will take you to the stop, without using the brakes (if that makes sense?). A lot of times my brake lights don't come on until i'm almost stopped already, i'm sure other drivers hate that but w/e, I try to give a warning tap in advance to wake them up.
Just remember: Engine load, not RPM. Don't use the middle pedal unless you have to.
#1400
Your hill problem is very unique, so not sure how to deal with that.
Generally would stay in 4th at very low throttle uphill and upshift to 5th on the downhill and stay off throttle. If your hills never end I don't know what to tell you I know some people do a quick accel and let off (I can understand why), I personally just modulate the throttle fairly quickly (unconsciously) and stay within a small speed window (+/- 5mph) Proper gear is important.
I suppose when it comes to downhill staying in 5th off-throttle and quick blips to maintain speed if the downgrade isn't steep enough is probably just as good as going to neutral, and safer to boot. The only time i'll coast in neutral is if i'm rolling downhill on an onramp waiting in line at a meter.
Personally, I am not a fan of hypermiling, I think a lot of the techniques are dangerous and annoying. I just drive the car as it was meant to be driven, but practice efficiency.
- Proper gear for speed and situation
- Maintain momentum
- Avoid Braking (especially coming to a full stop)
- engine brake when possible in a gear that will take you to the stop, without using the brakes (if that makes sense?). A lot of times my brake lights don't come on until i'm almost stopped already, i'm sure other drivers hate that but w/e, I try to give a warning tap in advance to wake them up.
Just remember: Engine load, not RPM. Don't use the middle pedal unless you have to.
Generally would stay in 4th at very low throttle uphill and upshift to 5th on the downhill and stay off throttle. If your hills never end I don't know what to tell you I know some people do a quick accel and let off (I can understand why), I personally just modulate the throttle fairly quickly (unconsciously) and stay within a small speed window (+/- 5mph) Proper gear is important.
I suppose when it comes to downhill staying in 5th off-throttle and quick blips to maintain speed if the downgrade isn't steep enough is probably just as good as going to neutral, and safer to boot. The only time i'll coast in neutral is if i'm rolling downhill on an onramp waiting in line at a meter.
Personally, I am not a fan of hypermiling, I think a lot of the techniques are dangerous and annoying. I just drive the car as it was meant to be driven, but practice efficiency.
- Proper gear for speed and situation
- Maintain momentum
- Avoid Braking (especially coming to a full stop)
- engine brake when possible in a gear that will take you to the stop, without using the brakes (if that makes sense?). A lot of times my brake lights don't come on until i'm almost stopped already, i'm sure other drivers hate that but w/e, I try to give a warning tap in advance to wake them up.
Just remember: Engine load, not RPM. Don't use the middle pedal unless you have to.
Great advice. Took it all into account and just need to pick the right spots to glide. They are there just need to find em haha. Avg went from 36.8 up to 38 on my 30 mile commute home so thats progress!