Tracking/AutoX Discussion
I just came back from my first autocross day with my 07 fit. Considering the class I was running in and the fact it was my first time, I did pretty well. I'm running stock suspension, and my next upgrade is going to be the Progress rear sway bar. After that I might put a set of D2 RS coilovers in it as well.
I just came back from my first autocross day with my 07 fit. Considering the class I was running in and the fact it was my first time, I did pretty well. I'm running stock suspension, and my next upgrade is going to be the Progress rear sway bar. After that I might put a set of D2 RS coilovers in it as well.
what tires were you on and pads? let me save you some time and money.
I'm probably running OE pads since the car was a Honda Used certified car about 6 months ago. As far as tires, they are a brand new set of Korean tires that aren't sold in the US called Pegasus Minos. They're just an allseason 400 tread wear rating tire, but they have good water channels. It was pouring rain during the afternoon track event and I felt way more comfortable in the car.
I'm also racing in the Street Modified class. I have a carbon fiber hood and a front strut brace. The hood really screws me over because it bumps me past street touring and street prepared. Getting rid of the hood is also not an option. I own a local online car part business and I am using the fit as a showcase of the products I sell (hence the reason for purchasing D2 coilovers - yes it'll be a tax write off :P). But basically at this point, since I'm in street modified I want to get the most out of that class, and that includes unrestricted suspension.
I'm also racing in the Street Modified class. I have a carbon fiber hood and a front strut brace. The hood really screws me over because it bumps me past street touring and street prepared. Getting rid of the hood is also not an option. I own a local online car part business and I am using the fit as a showcase of the products I sell (hence the reason for purchasing D2 coilovers - yes it'll be a tax write off :P). But basically at this point, since I'm in street modified I want to get the most out of that class, and that includes unrestricted suspension.
I'm probably running OE pads since the car was a Honda Used certified car about 6 months ago. As far as tires, they are a brand new set of Korean tires that aren't sold in the US called Pegasus Minos. They're just an allseason 400 tread wear rating tire, but they have good water channels. It was pouring rain during the afternoon track event and I felt way more comfortable in the car.
I'm also racing in the Street Modified class. I have a carbon fiber hood and a front strut brace. The hood really screws me over because it bumps me past street touring and street prepared. Getting rid of the hood is also not an option. I own a local online car part business and I am using the fit as a showcase of the products I sell (hence the reason for purchasing D2 coilovers - yes it'll be a tax write off :P). But basically at this point, since I'm in street modified I want to get the most out of that class, and that includes unrestricted suspension.
I'm also racing in the Street Modified class. I have a carbon fiber hood and a front strut brace. The hood really screws me over because it bumps me past street touring and street prepared. Getting rid of the hood is also not an option. I own a local online car part business and I am using the fit as a showcase of the products I sell (hence the reason for purchasing D2 coilovers - yes it'll be a tax write off :P). But basically at this point, since I'm in street modified I want to get the most out of that class, and that includes unrestricted suspension.
you will be surprised what just brakes and tires can do. start from the ground up. IMO
Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 374
From: Gainesville, Florida
Can't stress it enough. Anything and everything you do to the car has to be connected to the pavement somehow. The tires will make or break other modifications. I'd throw on some nice light wheels like 949racing 6UL in 15x8 (those should fit on all 4 corners on a GD3 right Jcrim?) and some Hankook RS-3s in 225/45/15. A good set of brake pads is also a major plus as the grip will be much higher and stress the limits of the friction material. THEN i'd throw on the D2s. Street Mod is a tough class considering what's allowed. BUT it does allow you to do pretty much whatever you would want as it's the most unlimited "street" oriented class.
I've had 1 good friend learn the hard way that tires are crucial. He put alot of money in his EG Civic hatch to get beat by a stock Fit on sticky tires. He learned and is now enjoying the decision to move to stickier rubber
(and yes he's faster than me now 
)HOWEVER, don't go overboard and start with R-comp or DOT race tires. They will hide/encourage bad driving habits and spoil you. Rule of thumb 'round here is stay on street tires for at least a year. I'd suggest going to some sort of performance driving school as well, it pays dividends!
Last edited by The BOM; Mar 6, 2012 at 07:36 PM.
This.
Can't stress it enough. Anything and everything you do to the car has to be connected to the pavement somehow. The tires will make or break other modifications. I'd throw on some nice light wheels like 949racing 6UL in 15x8 (those should fit on all 4 corners on a GD3 right Jcrim?) and some Hankook RS-3s in 225/45/15. A good set of brake pads is also a major plus as the grip will be much higher and stress the limits of the friction material. THEN i'd throw on the D2s. Street Mod is a tough class considering what's allowed. BUT it does allow you to do pretty much whatever you would want as it's the most unlimited "street" oriented class.
I've had 1 good friend learn the hard way that tires are crucial. He put alot of money in his EG Civic hatch to get beat by a stock Fit on sticky tires. He learned and is now enjoying the decision to move to stickier rubber (and yes he's faster than me now )
HOWEVER, don't go overboard and start with R-comp or DOT race tires. They will hide/encourage bad driving habits and spoil you. Rule of thumb 'round here is stay on street tires for at least a year. I'd suggest going to some sort of performance driving school as well, it pays dividends!
Can't stress it enough. Anything and everything you do to the car has to be connected to the pavement somehow. The tires will make or break other modifications. I'd throw on some nice light wheels like 949racing 6UL in 15x8 (those should fit on all 4 corners on a GD3 right Jcrim?) and some Hankook RS-3s in 225/45/15. A good set of brake pads is also a major plus as the grip will be much higher and stress the limits of the friction material. THEN i'd throw on the D2s. Street Mod is a tough class considering what's allowed. BUT it does allow you to do pretty much whatever you would want as it's the most unlimited "street" oriented class.
I've had 1 good friend learn the hard way that tires are crucial. He put alot of money in his EG Civic hatch to get beat by a stock Fit on sticky tires. He learned and is now enjoying the decision to move to stickier rubber
(and yes he's faster than me now )HOWEVER, don't go overboard and start with R-comp or DOT race tires. They will hide/encourage bad driving habits and spoil you. Rule of thumb 'round here is stay on street tires for at least a year. I'd suggest going to some sort of performance driving school as well, it pays dividends!
and yes 15X8 will fit GD3 fine
I've been hearing lots of good things about the RS-3s and RA-1 (National Spec tire now) from cars in our weight range, like the 99-05 Miatas.
Anyone have any data or seat of the pants conclusions on the RS-3 vs. the Star Specs? I've had and enjoyed the star specs in 2009-2010 for a couple afternoons at Elkhart Lake. But haven't tried anything else since.
Anyone have any data or seat of the pants conclusions on the RS-3 vs. the Star Specs? I've had and enjoyed the star specs in 2009-2010 for a couple afternoons at Elkhart Lake. But haven't tried anything else since.
Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 374
From: Gainesville, Florida
I've been hearing lots of good things about the RS-3s and RA-1 (National Spec tire now) from cars in our weight range, like the 99-05 Miatas.
Anyone have any data or seat of the pants conclusions on the RS-3 vs. the Star Specs? I've had and enjoyed the star specs in 2009-2010 for a couple afternoons at Elkhart Lake. But haven't tried anything else since.
Anyone have any data or seat of the pants conclusions on the RS-3 vs. the Star Specs? I've had and enjoyed the star specs in 2009-2010 for a couple afternoons at Elkhart Lake. But haven't tried anything else since.
Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 374
From: Gainesville, Florida
so jelly 
I'll be the first to chime in on this controversial subject, and constructive criticism/opinions from others are welcome.
I choose to use 5w30, as the 5w20 produces a lot of valvetrain noise when the engine is nice and hot from laps/runs. 5w30 quiets that down when hot. Granted, here in the south our highs in the summer are close to 100*F so you can imagine the thermal energy dispersed among the measly 4qts of oil.
0w wouldn't be a concern as that's cold temp rating.
Tolerances of new engines are awesome compared to that of olden days, so a xxw40 probably isn't worth trying.
The TRUE way to determine optimal oil weight is through oil temp and pressure readings during an event at temp, and even then it's not EXACT but indications from gauge readings can tell you if the oil is too thick. Oil that is too thick will also retain heat (from what i've read) instead of cooling it down properly.
$.02
I'll be the first to chime in on this controversial subject, and constructive criticism/opinions from others are welcome.
I choose to use 5w30, as the 5w20 produces a lot of valvetrain noise when the engine is nice and hot from laps/runs. 5w30 quiets that down when hot. Granted, here in the south our highs in the summer are close to 100*F so you can imagine the thermal energy dispersed among the measly 4qts of oil.
0w wouldn't be a concern as that's cold temp rating.
Tolerances of new engines are awesome compared to that of olden days, so a xxw40 probably isn't worth trying.
The TRUE way to determine optimal oil weight is through oil temp and pressure readings during an event at temp, and even then it's not EXACT but indications from gauge readings can tell you if the oil is too thick. Oil that is too thick will also retain heat (from what i've read) instead of cooling it down properly.
$.02
Well, it's hot here in the summer also. Probably not 100* in Santa Rosa to many days, but plenty of 90* days. Looking at the Conti Extreme Contact DW's because there quite light. Using the stock wheels for the time being as I'm cheap and do not want to invest in Enkei's with another set of wheel sensors.
So chaps.
I'm doing my first autox on the 22nd of this month.
I am excite, will be doing it on some stock size (base) all-seasons, stock pads/sussy/alignment.
Lower capabilities of car, make me learn to drive? That's the goal.
I'm doing my first autox on the 22nd of this month.
I am excite, will be doing it on some stock size (base) all-seasons, stock pads/sussy/alignment.
Lower capabilities of car, make me learn to drive? That's the goal.
Thats the way to start. Otherwise upgrades may hide your mistakes and then you never get a chance to correct them or fully familiarize yourself with the chassis.
Remember, the fastest lines can look the slowest. Jackie Stewart has been quoted as saying:
Remember, the fastest lines can look the slowest. Jackie Stewart has been quoted as saying:
"never press the gas pedal, until you know you will never have to take it off."
Have fun and most importantly, don't look at the other times, just focus on your times and beating yourself with each successive run.