Tracking/AutoX Discussion
Hey guys, I'm looking at buying a Fit for a DD and the latest GRM makes it seem like the GE is looking like a pretty capable STF car in multiple regards. I've always liked the Fit for it's combination of economy and utility so if it'd be competitive in it's ST* class, that'd be nice.
My main concerns are the rear suspension. Seems the GD at least has a bolt on hub unit such that you can shim it for rear alignment (camber/toe). Also it seems that quite a few GEs have suffered from rear torsion beam 'shifting' such that there is out of whack toe. Has anyone experimented with repositioning or shimming the torsion beam to get the toe at least back to 0 (or even).
Anyway, I'm not looking to go crazy with the build, probably just Redshifts coilovers, 16x7.5 Kosei K4Rs, 225/50/16 Star specs, and double camber bolts in the front struts.
How does the L15 respond to breather modifications?
Thanks
My main concerns are the rear suspension. Seems the GD at least has a bolt on hub unit such that you can shim it for rear alignment (camber/toe). Also it seems that quite a few GEs have suffered from rear torsion beam 'shifting' such that there is out of whack toe. Has anyone experimented with repositioning or shimming the torsion beam to get the toe at least back to 0 (or even).
Anyway, I'm not looking to go crazy with the build, probably just Redshifts coilovers, 16x7.5 Kosei K4Rs, 225/50/16 Star specs, and double camber bolts in the front struts.
How does the L15 respond to breather modifications?
Thanks
The mods you mentioned are good, light weight rims help. Aggressive front negative camber always good. If possible adjust swaybars to the driver's liking.
Another possible approach is to stagger the wheels and tires- run wider in front for more grip and less understeer, matching rear tires but run more narrow rims, saves weight and helps oversteer when needed.
If one must run in H stock then one swaybar mod is allowed and you can run Hoosier A6 or Kumho V710 tires on stock rims which do work pretty well. Some camber bolts up front and aggressive negative camber is helpful.
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2
From: Durham, NC
Best SCCA class for the Fit is STF but you want to tweak suspension, max out the rim width and tire size that would be a good start.
The mods you mentioned are good, light weight rims help. Aggressive front negative camber always good. If possible adjust swaybars to the driver's liking.
Another possible approach is to stagger the wheels and tires- run wider in front for more grip and less understeer, matching rear tires but run more narrow rims, saves weight and helps oversteer when needed.
If one must run in H stock then one swaybar mod is allowed and you can run Hoosier A6 or Kumho V710 tires on stock rims which do work pretty well. Some camber bolts up front and aggressive negative camber is helpful.
The mods you mentioned are good, light weight rims help. Aggressive front negative camber always good. If possible adjust swaybars to the driver's liking.
Another possible approach is to stagger the wheels and tires- run wider in front for more grip and less understeer, matching rear tires but run more narrow rims, saves weight and helps oversteer when needed.
If one must run in H stock then one swaybar mod is allowed and you can run Hoosier A6 or Kumho V710 tires on stock rims which do work pretty well. Some camber bolts up front and aggressive negative camber is helpful.
Camber bolts aren't stock legal (unless the FSM says they can be used in which case they are Honda parts and only get you like -0.5*).
What is max front camber you can get with a little lowering plus 2 ingalls bolts per strut? -2.5? -3?
I don't think staggered wheels would be worth anything other than annoyance on a ST* car with a high CoG and low power. Staggered tires will help on most FWD cars though. I'm building my 91 CRX for SMF and I'll be running 275/35/15s in the front and 225/45/15 in the rear on the same 15x9 wheels all around.
I can tell you from my last run that at least the GD Fit is VERY sensitive to adjustments in both tire pressure and staggered wheel setups.
For the last run of the season I played with my 225 45 15 RS3's in front and some 205 50 15 Falken 912's in the rear. With front pressure at 28lbs and rear at 36lbs there was almost NO rear grip! I had the car completely sideways several times and spun it....well lots lol
For the last run of the season I played with my 225 45 15 RS3's in front and some 205 50 15 Falken 912's in the rear. With front pressure at 28lbs and rear at 36lbs there was almost NO rear grip! I had the car completely sideways several times and spun it....well lots lol
Last edited by TPColgett; Aug 28, 2012 at 02:31 PM.
I'm never doing another macstrut stock class car again (I killed a set of A6s in 38 runs in my G stock 11' Civic SI).
Camber bolts aren't stock legal (unless the FSM says they can be used in which case they are Honda parts and only get you like -0.5*).
What is max front camber you can get with a little lowering plus 2 ingalls bolts per strut? -2.5? -3?
I don't think staggered wheels would be worth anything other than annoyance on a ST* car with a high CoG and low power. Staggered tires will help on most FWD cars though. I'm building my 91 CRX for SMF and I'll be running 275/35/15s in the front and 225/45/15 in the rear on the same 15x9 wheels all around.
Camber bolts aren't stock legal (unless the FSM says they can be used in which case they are Honda parts and only get you like -0.5*).
What is max front camber you can get with a little lowering plus 2 ingalls bolts per strut? -2.5? -3?
I don't think staggered wheels would be worth anything other than annoyance on a ST* car with a high CoG and low power. Staggered tires will help on most FWD cars though. I'm building my 91 CRX for SMF and I'll be running 275/35/15s in the front and 225/45/15 in the rear on the same 15x9 wheels all around.
I have 225's front and rear.. I have been trying to stick to a 15" due to weight. My daily tire and wheel combo is actuall 2lbs lighter in comparison to the "race" setup and even that is VERY noticeable! Far less grip though >_<
This weekends event with the Star Spec's up front and the stock Dunlops out back we were extremely loose also. Double camber bolts got us -2.5. Next events a 2 dayer on the 8th & 9th. We will have something different out back for sure.
This is a great thread, I got a lot of info. off it. I finally got to go autoxing last Saturday for the first time and I had a blast, unfortunately I am now hook. I found this when I was trying to figure out what class I want to run.
I'm planning to go to the last three events in the ST group (because of my brakes), then next year run STX. Not sure yet what class the wife is going to be in since she still has way more mods then me :P
Also BOM if you still have your 6UL could you tell me what the backspace is please. I'm want to get a set but not sure if they will fit.
I'm planning to go to the last three events in the ST group (because of my brakes), then next year run STX. Not sure yet what class the wife is going to be in since she still has way more mods then me :P
Also BOM if you still have your 6UL could you tell me what the backspace is please. I'm want to get a set but not sure if they will fit.
I'm not sure that that chart is still accurate, you may want to read through the current rules to make sure the mods you want to do will keep you in a class that the Fit will be competitive in.
http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/..._Rules_May.pdf
http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/..._Rules_May.pdf
Great chart but it is for sure out of date. As stated above, the class for the Fit's both GD and GE is STF, which is a new class for 2012. I have heard quite a few people thinking of being in STX, but I would recommend strongly against that if your trying to be competitive. Also, for info on 6ul's check out there main page on 949 racing: 15" wheels I would love a set, but the offsets are all to high to match my ideal setup and I dislike spacers....
Great chart but it is for sure out of date. As stated above, the class for the Fit's both GD and GE is STF, which is a new class for 2012. I have heard quite a few people thinking of being in STX, but I would recommend strongly against that if your trying to be competitive. Also, for info on 6ul's check out there main page on 949 racing: 15" wheels I would love a set, but the offsets are all to high to match my ideal setup and I dislike spacers....
May I ask why I should not do STX? I'm a noob so I don't really know the difference between the classes yet. I'm having a hard time understanding the rule book, it tells you talks about ST, SP, SM but doesn't break down the other classes Unless I miss that part I've been real busy myself to sit down and read the whole thing. Thanks again
I called and check 949racing about the backspace and they couldn't give me an answer. They said I should ask J crimson because he has a set. But He hasn't got back me to me yet, most likely just been busy no big deal. The wheels I have now have a high off set and are a little to heavy. I don't want to give up my brakes, plus I would like to have a set of wheels just for autox.
May I ask why I should not do STX? I'm a noob so I don't really know the difference between the classes yet. I'm having a hard time understanding the rule book, it tells you talks about ST, SP, SM but doesn't break down the other classes Unless I miss that part I've been real busy myself to sit down and read the whole thing. Thanks again
May I ask why I should not do STX? I'm a noob so I don't really know the difference between the classes yet. I'm having a hard time understanding the rule book, it tells you talks about ST, SP, SM but doesn't break down the other classes Unless I miss that part I've been real busy myself to sit down and read the whole thing. Thanks again
As far as where it breaks down the allowable mods in the ST class (pages 81-90?), that's the list of things you can play with to try and make your Fit faster
hope that helps!
So I am much of a noob my self so to speak lol but I have been to 4 events now. The actual "class" appears to be ST (Street Touring). The modifier afterwards is based on the car's in the class. STF (Street Touring FWD) cars are listed on page 181 of the PDF of the 2012 SCCA Rule book I have, which includes both Fit's and the rest of our "competition." STX ( Street Touring Extreme) cars are listed on page 182 and include things like Acura ITRs, 5.0L Fox Bodied Mustangs, 3 series Bimmers, R-X8s and WRXs that will easily post times faster than our little guys!
As far as where it breaks down the allowable mods in the ST class (pages 81-90?), that's the list of things you can play with to try and make your Fit faster
hope that helps!
As far as where it breaks down the allowable mods in the ST class (pages 81-90?), that's the list of things you can play with to try and make your Fit faster
hope that helps!
Our clubs big weekend this Sat. & Sun. Tires will get a workout. Weather will be in the 80's. Hope we got the rear end loose feeling worked out. Patience is the key going in. Educate that right foot. Pic's to come.
Out of the cars we consider our competition we beat them by a fairly large margin. We also have an extensive racing background which goes a long ways. ESCA, which is the name of our club had no rules to speak of. You either have 4cyl or more which makes up our 2 classes and a tire rule. Other than that anything goes. A few more mods may get us 2-3 seconds which will put us in the running. The winner in our class is a Accord Si completely modded. Quite quick around the cones. He has 3 seconds on our Fit.
I think at this point my best bet is to continue adjusting the nut between the steering wheel and the drivers seat 
2 seconds can be had educating your right foot. Our track changes with the heat & our ability to relax throughout the day. Were going to get ours with 15" wheels and Swift springs, Star Spec's on all 4 corners. Were extremely loose with the Dunlops on the front only.