Educating my right foot has been the biggest battle so far : / I have also been on two separate tracks with very different surfaces, however over using the throttle has been consistent

I am on 15's, Swift springs with adjustable dampers, RSB and sticky RS3 tires. NO more playing with staggered setups, WAY too lose. Time to just get more seat time

 

Swift springs and adj. dampers. Which brand may I ask?

 

Tokico, these ones to be exact Tokico Shock Kit - HTS Series : TOHTS509

These are for the GD though. I got them originally from a forum member here who wanted even stiffer suspension... not sure why lol I think they are on clearance now though due to lack of interest ($1500 for shocks was WAY too much for our community when coilovers were the same or less.)

I have just over 30K on them and they dial up to full lock for racing and back down to significant other approved levels of comfort

 

Looked them up and no offerings for the GE.

 

Yea, saddly there are currently no sporting shock options that I'm aware of for the GE

 

Would using GD parts on your GE put you in a difference class or is that against the rules? Since no one is making anything for our cars.

I know the dampers and spring rate are difference between the GD and GE. Also I know the GD suspension bolts up to the GE I've seen a few people do it. Right now I'm looking at some BC racing coilovers since they are for 07-12.

 

We have no rules per say in our club except 4cyl. and DOT tires. Looking at Mugen coilovers & 15" wheels for next year.

 

Spoon makes some if I'm not mistaken

 

AutoX non-n00bs. I'm doing my first event in a couple weeks, on cheapo 175/65/14 all seasons, Tein S-Tech, no real performance mods. I have no driving experience on track/autox.

Please help me prepare.

 

My region has a great "first event" write up here:
San Francisco Region SCCA - Your First Autocross

From my experience I'd recommend bringing a seat or two for you and a friend as well as water and shade! That and don't forget tape for your numbers. If you really want, a good tire gauge can at least help you check your levels and a portable inflator isn't a bad idea either.

Did I leave anything out guys?

 

Prepare for tons of understeer and lots of tire noise. Not much you can prepare for. Always try to attack the back of the cone, keep your head up and try not to get tunnel vision. It's pretty common to get out there and you just focus straight ahead.

You can probably also ask for a seasoned driver to drive with you around the track a few times.

 

Yeah, I know the tires/suspension are ill suited for the job but my friend who tracks his Miata extensively and instructs at BMW Owner's Days says it'll really help force me to be smooth, and avoid the jerkiness that can plague autox guys.

Thanks for the advice thus far!

 

+1 on asking for a seasoned driver. Best way to pick up meaningful tips! Also if you can register for some extra fun runs that would get you more seat time.

 

So I used to autox a lot, but haven't been out in a few years. Got my Fit last December and finally took it out to an autox yesterday. I have the Progress RSB and Swift springs (so STF class), unfortunately crap all season tires. It actually handled a lot better than I thought it would. I ran the first few runs without changing anything, the last few I lowered the rear PSI to help it rotate and ran my best time on my last run. I forgot so much about autox, mostly the looking ahead thing. I checked the results this morning, I actually paxed 17th out of 69, not too bad for being on crap all seaons. I shouldn't have taken a hit of the crack pipe though, now I want some real ST tires... and am hoping that Redshift makes some real coilovers for the GD3.

I've seen a few of you guys saying you're running 225 front tires, with our horsepower (or lack there of) isn't that a lot of rubber to push around? I would think the 205's would be enough to get good front grip. Also, has anyone found a smaller front sway bar that fits our cars (like using the CRX HF front bar on an SI), or tried running with the front sway bar disconnected? I know my old CRX in GS loved the no front bar thing, at least with my driving style.

 

I have only ever seen larger front sway bar's from aftermarket people, and I actually know some one running one who used to AutoX in H-stock with it at loved it.

Conversely I also know some one who slammed there GD3 and disconnected the front sway bar and raved about that as well....I think it may really come down to driver preference at that point

I am also EAGERLY waiting to see what Chris at Redshift comes up with for us!

as far as 225 vs 205.... I am still such a noob when it comes to tires I really cant say... I use 205's as my daily's and they made a marked improvement in handling. Then once I squeezed the 225's on for AutoX, the level of grip was dramatically higher! But there is a small trade off in weight, and even at roughly 3-4lbs heavier then my daily setup I could tell the difference in acceleration... I am debating if super lightweight 15x7's with 205's would be better than my 15x7.5's and 225's.... I guess I still need more seat time to tell!

 

What offset are you running to make 7.5's and 225's fit without rubbing? I'm pretty sure you can't roll the fenders in ST. I'll have to try disconnecting the front links and see if I like it.

 

Actually, you can roll fenders in STF but not cut or trim any plastic. In the front it was no problem to fit a +25 offset with -3 camber, a little pulling and the plastic liner flip trick. In the rear I did have to actually roll the metal, and it does still occasionally rub if driven on the street and in and out of drive ways. Then again I am only lowered on swift springs so the drop is not much. My newest rim/spacer combination should have me at a +17 offset... wish me luck!

 

From the Solo rules for Street Touring, page 81...

E. Fenders may not be cut or flared but the inside lip may be rolled to

gain additional tire clearance. (The outer fender contour may not be
changed.) Plastic and rubber wheel well splash shields may be mod

ducts, etc). No other changes to the stock fenders or wheel wells are
permitted.

 

I took the above to mean that the rear metal section of my inner fender lip could be rolled and that I could remove and bend up the front plastic retaining tabs for the fender liner which were the only two areas I rubbed...

E. Fenders may not be cut or flared but the inside lip may be rolled to
gain additional tire clearance. (The outer fender contour may not be
changed.) Plastic and rubber wheel well splash shields may be modified for tire clearance and to accommodate a rolled inside fender lip.
The modifications may serve no other purpose (e.g. air intake, brake ducts, etc). No other changes to the stock fenders or wheel wells are
permitted.

Did I read this wrongly?

 

Nope sounds like you're good, I thought you meant you had rolled the rear fender enough to push it out, not just the inner part. I didn't think the front fender had a lip to roll, but I've seen the fender liner tuck job.