What did you do to the GD Fit today?
Huh... KWSC Fits are just popping up left and right. haha
In the last week or two, I had to relocate the traction oil tank for the KWSC. Reason being is that the SX150 traction oil would actually drain back into the Rotrex S/C. Fortunately for me I could use the 2 pre-drilled holes in the left (driver side) frame rail to relocate and lower the traction oil tank below the S/C AND still be able to access the ATF and S/C oil tank's dip sticks.
After that, I've been dailying the Fit for the last few days to give the CR-Z a break and get some street tuning done as well. I must say I missed streeting the GD on a regular basis and I should have installed this S/C much sooner.
In the last week or two, I had to relocate the traction oil tank for the KWSC. Reason being is that the SX150 traction oil would actually drain back into the Rotrex S/C. Fortunately for me I could use the 2 pre-drilled holes in the left (driver side) frame rail to relocate and lower the traction oil tank below the S/C AND still be able to access the ATF and S/C oil tank's dip sticks.
After that, I've been dailying the Fit for the last few days to give the CR-Z a break and get some street tuning done as well. I must say I missed streeting the GD on a regular basis and I should have installed this S/C much sooner.
Huh... KWSC Fits are just popping up left and right. haha
In the last week or two, I had to relocate the traction oil tank for the KWSC. Reason being is that the SX150 traction oil would actually drain back into the Rotrex S/C. Fortunately for me I could use the 2 pre-drilled holes in the left (driver side) frame rail to relocate and lower the traction oil tank below the S/C AND still be able to access the ATF and S/C oil tank's dip sticks.
After that, I've been dailying the Fit for the last few days to give the CR-Z a break and get some street tuning done as well. I must say I missed streeting the GD on a regular basis and I should have installed this S/C much sooner.
In the last week or two, I had to relocate the traction oil tank for the KWSC. Reason being is that the SX150 traction oil would actually drain back into the Rotrex S/C. Fortunately for me I could use the 2 pre-drilled holes in the left (driver side) frame rail to relocate and lower the traction oil tank below the S/C AND still be able to access the ATF and S/C oil tank's dip sticks.
After that, I've been dailying the Fit for the last few days to give the CR-Z a break and get some street tuning done as well. I must say I missed streeting the GD on a regular basis and I should have installed this S/C much sooner.
The carbon fiber cover is either from eBay or Rakuten Japan. I'll be selling mine in about 3 weeks when my items come back from powder coat and I remove it. It's like new condition and on the bottom I used all new OEM Honda original foam parts to keep it from vibrating and cracking like the original plastic one had.
Got my new 90mm pulley on the 15-60c unit with out taking it out the car, I do fill a bit more response in acceleration but as normal its never enough hoping I can exceed the 10psi but I have not raised my rpm to 7100 I am at 6500 with 9psi trying not to exceed the max impeller speed to much , curious if any one has went smaller on the pulley size than 90
weapon r manifolds
hey question about your weapon r intake manifold is your fit the gd3 model and where did your get ur manifold bc it seems theirs a gd1 and gd3 model of manifolds and carids add says wire throttle not drive by wire or cable and do you feel it helped your car at all with performance
??
gd1?
gd3?
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 823
From: Arizona
I asked Vit years ago about the Weapon R intake manifold and how much of a difference it would make. He said it would be negligible. Previc93 included his when he basically gave me his old turbo from his car. It looks really nice though.
I was informed that the Weapon R manifold is not good for our supercharged engines and that the stock intake manifold was better.
This intake manifold from JK Motorsports is beautiful and better for boost.
https://m.facebook.com/jkmotorsportsinc/photos/a.124362454273523.8852.117036191672816/1261213183921772/?type=3&source=48
This intake manifold from JK Motorsports is beautiful and better for boost.
https://m.facebook.com/jkmotorsportsinc/photos/a.124362454273523.8852.117036191672816/1261213183921772/?type=3&source=48
hey question about your weapon r intake manifold is your fit the gd3 model and where did your get ur manifold bc it seems theirs a gd1 and gd3 model of manifolds and carids add says wire throttle not drive by wire or cable and do you feel it helped your car at all with performance
??
gd1?
gd3?
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 71
From: LA, CA
Thank you!
Performance : it's great for mid-range to top end. (My modded stock airbox with a longer inlet runner has better low end since the airbox is pressurized more about that later...)
Sound : Sounds like a Ferrari. Or I'm just super excited about the sound.
Very deep and loud tone but I also have a louvered exhaust pipe from a Midget Sprint car. Driving home everyone gives me space... I can't be ignored haha. I drive at 4k RPM through town and I have small 14 inch wheels that changes the gearing giving me better low-end torque so I get up to speed QUICK! Just imagine a honda fit bosozoku driving below the speed limit but winding out our little engines through town. GoKart status for sure.
But last nite I created this right here which is louder and better top-end but the low end suffered.
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 71
From: LA, CA
My thoughts - since the air filter is one of the restrictive parts of the intake and our little engines have to suck air through there, the stock air box is one of the best design. It utilizes a pressurized box which helps with low end response. And since the air filter is closest to the throttle body, the engine can easily suck the air through it, where as the setup above the air filter is furthest from the throttle body making it harder for the engine to suck air through therefore losing low end torque.
My modded stock airbox - I cut the inlet runner and enlarged it to 2 inches in diameter and extend it to the front bumper to ram air into the airbox raising the pressure and when I open the throttle, air is ready to cram into the cylinder. Some say ram air doesnt have an effect until 150mph, but you still feel incremental increase performance as you get moving even at a slow speed. The longer runner also helps with the lowend torque giving a high velocity of air into the airbox.
This new version that I just created has a y-splitter. Short runner for top end and long runner for lowend torque and ram air effect.
Waterlog worries?
With the CAI wannabe ARC, water was a slight worry but not really since if it does rain, I have a cover to cover up the fog light hole.
With my Modded Airbox with the Runner coming out the bumper -
I've been running this setup through the winter and it rain a few times and I still mashed it in the rain on the freeway with the snorkel sucking in that cold dense rain air. When I pulled over and did an inspection, The water hardly ever made it to the airbox. Almost always dry...And when I did see water, it was a few droplets. But the stock airbox does have a water release hole on the bottom which helps tremendously...try pouring a cup of water in that box and watch it drain fast...from the point on entry of the runner to the airbox, its quite a distance going up so the density of water is too heavy to fully engulf the box. Our little engines can't suck that hard lol.
My modded stock airbox - I cut the inlet runner and enlarged it to 2 inches in diameter and extend it to the front bumper to ram air into the airbox raising the pressure and when I open the throttle, air is ready to cram into the cylinder. Some say ram air doesnt have an effect until 150mph, but you still feel incremental increase performance as you get moving even at a slow speed. The longer runner also helps with the lowend torque giving a high velocity of air into the airbox.
This new version that I just created has a y-splitter. Short runner for top end and long runner for lowend torque and ram air effect.
Waterlog worries?
With the CAI wannabe ARC, water was a slight worry but not really since if it does rain, I have a cover to cover up the fog light hole.
With my Modded Airbox with the Runner coming out the bumper -
I've been running this setup through the winter and it rain a few times and I still mashed it in the rain on the freeway with the snorkel sucking in that cold dense rain air. When I pulled over and did an inspection, The water hardly ever made it to the airbox. Almost always dry...And when I did see water, it was a few droplets. But the stock airbox does have a water release hole on the bottom which helps tremendously...try pouring a cup of water in that box and watch it drain fast...from the point on entry of the runner to the airbox, its quite a distance going up so the density of water is too heavy to fully engulf the box. Our little engines can't suck that hard lol.
Last edited by weenee; Jan 11, 2017 at 03:21 AM.
My thoughts - since the air filter is one of the restrictive parts of the intake and our little engines have to suck air through there, the stock air box is one of the best design. It utilizes a pressurized box which helps with low end response. And since the air filter is closest to the throttle body, the engine can easily suck the air through it, where as the setup above the air filter is furthest from the throttle body making it harder for the engine to suck air through therefore losing low end torque.
My modded stock airbox - I cut the inlet runner and enlarged it to 2 inches in diameter and extend it to the front bumper to ram air into the airbox raising the pressure and when I open the throttle, air is ready to cram into the cylinder. Some say ram air doesnt have an effect until 150mph, but you still feel incremental increase performance as you get moving even at a slow speed. The longer runner also helps with the lowend torque giving a high velocity of air into the airbox.
This new version that I just created has a y-splitter. Short runner for top end and long runner for lowend torque and ram air effect.
Waterlog worries?
With the CAI wannabe ARC, water was a slight worry but not really since if it does rain, I have a cover to cover up the fog light hole.
With my Modded Airbox with the Runner coming out the bumper -
I've been running this setup through the winter and it rain a few times and I still mashed it in the rain on the freeway with the snorkel sucking in that cold dense rain air. When I pulled over and did an inspection, The water hardly ever made it to the airbox. Almost always dry...And when I did see water, it was a few droplets. But the stock airbox does have a water release hole on the bottom which helps tremendously...try pouring a cup of water in that box and watch it drain fast...from the point on entry of the runner to the airbox, its quite a distance going up so the density of water is too heavy to fully engulf the box. Our little engines can't suck that hard lol.
My modded stock airbox - I cut the inlet runner and enlarged it to 2 inches in diameter and extend it to the front bumper to ram air into the airbox raising the pressure and when I open the throttle, air is ready to cram into the cylinder. Some say ram air doesnt have an effect until 150mph, but you still feel incremental increase performance as you get moving even at a slow speed. The longer runner also helps with the lowend torque giving a high velocity of air into the airbox.
This new version that I just created has a y-splitter. Short runner for top end and long runner for lowend torque and ram air effect.
Waterlog worries?
With the CAI wannabe ARC, water was a slight worry but not really since if it does rain, I have a cover to cover up the fog light hole.
With my Modded Airbox with the Runner coming out the bumper -
I've been running this setup through the winter and it rain a few times and I still mashed it in the rain on the freeway with the snorkel sucking in that cold dense rain air. When I pulled over and did an inspection, The water hardly ever made it to the airbox. Almost always dry...And when I did see water, it was a few droplets. But the stock airbox does have a water release hole on the bottom which helps tremendously...try pouring a cup of water in that box and watch it drain fast...from the point on entry of the runner to the airbox, its quite a distance going up so the density of water is too heavy to fully engulf the box. Our little engines can't suck that hard lol.
Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 24
From: Guatemala
I was informed that the Weapon R manifold is not good for our supercharged engines and that the stock intake manifold was better.
This intake manifold from JK Motorsports is beautiful and better for boost.
https://m.facebook.com/jkmotorsports...pe=3&source=48
This intake manifold from JK Motorsports is beautiful and better for boost.
https://m.facebook.com/jkmotorsports...pe=3&source=48
It looks freaking cool. Wondering how much they charge for it
maybe in the range of $1K - $1.5K USD if you buy it alone.