Search back for my post a few months back.

Mine is wired up now so: the foglights CAN work anytime the KEY is on, are controled byt the foglight switch, are not in ANY way tied tot he head or park lights.

This allows me to use my foglights as DRL's and also keeps them on when the headlights or high beams are on.

I also rewired the headlights so the low beams stay on when using the highbeams.

The post is very detailed on what wires to cut and connect to what.

 

if u may/could repost it ???

 

I believe alarmgui is referring to his previous post on page 5 of this very thread. I didn't refer to his instructions because to me it just doesn't make sense. If anything, his fog lights should be on automatically whenever he turns on ths car's ignition, and stay on with no switch control.

According to his last paragraph (instruction for the fog light portion), he cut the red/yellow wire going into the headlight combination switch, which is the wire coming from the #13 fog light fuse carrying +ve power to the fog light on/off switch. He then grounded this wire from the switch side. And after that, he cut the blue/red wire at the fog relay and capped off the car side of the wire. But according to the Helm diagrams, the blue/red wire is the one coming from the fog light switch to the fog relay. So if I'm reading this right, he's effectively isolated the fog light switch and took it completely out of the circuit.

He then took the blue/red wire from the fog relay (originally trigger wire for the relay coil) and connected to the black/orange wire on the rear defrost relay next to the fog relay, which is the ignition switched +ve in for the rear defrost. So if hooked up this way, the power from the black/orange wire will trigger the fog relay coil to be on whenever the ignition is turned to the on position. But this alone should not actually turn on the fog lights since as I mentioned before, this is a switch grounded circuit, and the red/white wire coming out of the fog relay ground through the low beam switch. Ahh, but in alarmgui's first paragraph after the disclaimer, he mentioned that he had cut and grounded the red/white of the low beam, which also means the fog relay, always has a ground.

But then the fogs should just be on whenever the ignition is on. Yet he now says they can be controlled by the fog light switch even though according to the instructions he's given, he had took the switch completely out of the circuit. That's the part I do not understand.

As for the dash dimming if you turn on the fogs without any other lights being on, I dunno. It's entirely possible as a side effect. Or it could be because he is still grounding the fogs through the low beam circuit in the headlight switch, and the headlight switch does connect to the gauge control module. And that's why the dash would think it should dim when the fogs are on. I personally prefer to wire my fogs to work with parking lights so this wouldn't be an issue for me. However, it seems alarmgui's objective was more to turn his fogs to DRLs.

Leonine, just follow squids' method and add a relay to the circuit. His method has already proven to work with parking lights on brdss' car. And if you want your fogs to work without parking lights, just replace the trigger wire for the relay (squids used pin5 on the 14 pin connector which is the parking light +ve), and plug it instead into the +ve of an unused fuse slot in the fuse box, like the one used in honda_dna's instructions, or even the black/orange wire at the rear defrost relay right next to the fog relay as per alarmgui's instructions, which would make it pretty easy since it's right next to the fog relay. Then you should be able to run your fog lights completely independent from all other lighting.

Good luck.

 

what's the difference between the red/yel at the HL switch and the red/yel at the fog light relay. Looking at the diagram the red/yel comes from the HL to the fog light relay. So if that is true will cutting and rewiring the red/yel wire at the fog light relay have the same efect as 4dr4life's mod at the HL switch? I wonder if that is why the high beam is on because the HL switch was cut instead of the red/yel at the fog light relay???

 

the red/yel wire is only live when the headlights are on, correct?

the red/yel wire feeds power to the headlights, high beam indicator, and fog light relay. From what i have read cutting the red/yel wire at the HL 20-pin connector was too early in the circuit. that is why the high beam is on. The red/yel wire also goes into the fog light relay. If it is cut at the fog light relay and the relay side red/yel wire is wired to a ignition switched power source like 4dr4life did then in theory that should solve the problem of the high beam indicator and still allow you to control the fogs whenever.

Will a 10A fuse be enough to control the fogs by themselves??? I have an add-a-circuit that i will use but it only supports up to 10A.

Does this make sense???

 

Hello everyone,

All the headlight switch and red/yellow wire talk made me a bit restless. So I Decided to go back and look through my Helm manual more closely. Upon a closer read, I've realized that I was mistaking when I claimed that the red/yellow wire is ignition switched.

I made this assumption based on successful methods posted by other members here, and by the quick glimps that night of the Canadian headlight circuit diagram which does in fact include the ignition switch. However, I was too excited by the arrival of my new manual that night and was looking up many other items, and so didn't really spend enough time on the actual headlight and foglight diagrams.

So, about the red/yellow wire. While it is technically correct that it is ignition switched, because it will no longer receive power once the vehicle is turned off. It is in fact controled by another relay in the "Underhood relay/fuse box". The setup of this relay, which is tied to the headlight switch, is in such a way that unless the headlights are turned on (not just parking lights, but headlights, so two clicks), the underhood headlight relay does not activate, and does not provide power to the red/yellow wire.

This red/yellow wire, which actually leaves the underhood relay via fuse #13 in the same underhood relay/fuse box, sends power to the left headlight lo/hi beams, the in-dash high-beam indicator, and the fog light switch.

By the time this red/yellow enters the cabin, it would only be powering the fog switch and the high-beam indicator. This is why earlier attempts at hotwiring the red/yellow wire at the harness to the underdash fusebox resulted in the high-beam indicator turning on.

The fog light circuit is also tied to the headlights at the ground for its relay coil. On the US version, it shares a ground with the low-beam position at the headlight switch (red/white wire) so that the circuit is only complete when the low-beams are on, and cuts out when it is switched to high-beam operation (full high-beam, won't cut out if you're flashing to pass). The Canadian version, the red/white wire leaves the fog light relay, and goes into the DRL (daytime running lamps) system. Since the DRL system wires into the low, high and fogs, it might be why by disabling the Canadian DRL system (pulling a fuse), the high-beam indicator does not turn on.

So now we know that the fog light circuit is tied into the headlight system in two places: The wire that powers the fog light switch (red/yellow), and the coil ground at the fog relay (red/white). We isolate these two wires from the headlight system, and the fogs should work independently.

Grounding the fog relay is easy. Go to the fog relay (bottom-right relay in the underdash relay/fuse panel), and cut the red/white wire. Then take the wire coming from the relay side, and connect that to ground. Finally, tape off the other end of the wire you cut.

Now, powering the switch. We now know we can't simply hotwire the red/yellow at the fusebox harness because it will also cause the high-beam indicator in the dash to come on. So we have to go directly to the switch. Remove the top steering column cover and disconnect the 16-pin harness from the headlight switch. Look for the red/yellow wire and cut it. Then, connect a long piece of wire to the end coming from the harness, and run that wire down to the underdash fusebox. Once there, connect the wire to a spare fuse slot that is ignition switched. Then plug your 16-pin harness back into the headlight switch. And your fog light circuit is now completely independent from the rest of the lighting circuit, and should operate whenever you have your ignition on.

I checked the online version of the service manual, and this is basically how the European spec front-fog only circuits are wired. The exception is that the wire going to the fog switch comes from the #9 fuse (10A) in their underdash fuse/relay box. That fuse controls dash lights, front parking lights, gauge lights, license plate lights, and taillights. The corresponding fuse in our underdash fuse/relay box is fuse # 22 (10A). This way the fog will operational with at least the parking lights being on (one click of the headlight switch). You can mimic this by attaching the wire you ran from the foglight switch to the #22 fuse slot with an add-a-circuit type wiring, or the crude way of doing it would be just to shove the new wire into the 'out' side of the fuse slot, then put the fuse back in wedging in and securing the wire.

My described method is not really any more difficult than earlier instructions in this thread, you're just feeding the red/yellow wire at a different location, then separating the fog relay coil ground from the low-beam circuit. Once complete the fog circuit is completely separate from all other lighting circuits, including low/beam, high-beam indicator, DRL. So it should work on US and Canadian Fit without having to disable DRL.

I will say again though, this is my suggested method, as I do not have fog lights on my Fit to experiment with. So don't attempt these suggestions unless you fully understand them, and how they work. Also, normal disclaimer applies. I will not be held responsible for any damage, injuries, fines, void warranty, etc due to you following my suggestions.

Good luck to you.

 

i don't see why we have to take apart the steering column. If you cut the red/yel wire at the fog light relay and take the relay side and connect it to an empty fuse slot why wouldn't that work you are in effect changing the way the power gets sent to the fog light relay alone. the high beam should not come on because you are only bypassing the power to the fog light relay itself.

 

Posted by Leonine:
The red/yellow wire goes into the fog light switch. Not the fog relay. There are no red/yellow wires going to the relay. check your diagram again.

Other than that, your assumptions are correct. Well, correct meaning the same thinking as me. And yes, a 10A fuse will be enough. As this is only to go through the fog switch and trigger the relay. Thus very low current draw. The fog lights get their actual power from the #21 fuse.

 

i hate to disagree with ya but when i wired up the red/wht ground as you suggested i noticed that there are several wires going into the fog light relay. not just the 2 mentioned in the diagram. one of them is the red/yel wire.

 

I'm basing it on the diagram on 22-88 in the manual, and also 22-9, where it says the fog relay has blue/yellow (going to the gauge control module, per 22-149), blue/black (power in and out of the relay), red/white (relay coil ground), and blue/red (coil trigger coming from the fog switch)

Anyways, it makes no sense to feed switched power directly to the coil trigger. That'd just make the fog light go on as soon as the car is on, and bypass the switch. (look at 22-88 again)

 

my bad. looked again and the red/yel wire is actually going to the relay next to it. i believe that is the taillight relay. so close together i missed it.

 

rear defrost relay probably. No worries. I'd have to trust you since you've got the fog lights on your car, not me.

But snap opening the top cover of the steering column shouldn't be too difficult, and while testing, you don't have to fish the wire yet, just run it down to the fuse panel from the outside to test if the method works first. If it does, then fish the wire inside after.

Realistically though, I'm sure that red/yellow wire got up to the steering column from the fuse panel somewhere. If you can find the right harness, then you can just cut it there instead of running the wire up.

 

Hey now! Following j5ive's instructions and here is the writeup:

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself, nor Fitfreak.net take any responsibility for the outcome of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

first grab hold of the upper steering column plastic shroud and pull up. You will see the following:


Now remove the 2 plugs to get a better angle on the harness. Now the harness will be exposed to do some minor surgery. Do NOT pull the wires to remove the plugs!


Here's a shot of where the red/yel wire is on the headlight switch harness.


Cut the red/yel wire and strip the ends.


Crimp a male and female shielded connector to either end in case you want to connect them back up to go back to stock.


Connect another wire to the one going from the connector. This is the one you want to send to the fuse box. This is the white wire in the pic. Disregard the black wire. I used this to wire up a dimmer for my trans temp gauge.


Now run the white wire to the fuse box to an unused location. I got an add-a-circuit from autozone to do this for a clean install. It is wired up with a 10A fuse.


Now connect it to the fuse box. i chose location #24 which was not used.


You're done. reinstall the switch harness and cover. No high beam indicator and the fogs work anytime.

***NOTE*** .the gauge console dimms when you turn them on.

Peace.

 

This was by far the EASIEST way to do this mod. THANKS to j5ive for hookin me up.

Just fogs.


with parking lights:


and headlights:


no highbeam indicator here.


the foglights are now completely independent and controlled by the fog light switch alone. Doing the mod i described will NOT allow them to come on with the headlights. To do that you can cut the red/wht wire behind the fog light relay i the underdash fuse box and ground the relay side.

That is all. 2 wires cut. So HAPPY

 

can you tell me why you used the other end (black wire) for the dimmer?

-joe

 

the red/yel wire only gets power when the headlights are on. the dimmer on my gauge needed a switched 12v power source only when the headlights were on. I figured that since i was doing the fogs i would use the other end for the gauge.

 

OK - I decided to look in my Helm manual, and do some experimenting...

Here's what I tried...

ROUND 1: Since the blue wire (according to the Helm manual is on the coil side of parking lamps) is shown in the pictures, I decided that I would just tap into it, and connect to the red/yellow wire that I cut. I figured that this would provide fog light power to the relay (same as connecting to an ignition source, except I would be using parking lights as a source.)

What happened?
- Headlight switch off, fog light switch off: All lights off.
- Headlight switch off, fog light switch on: Parking lights and fog lamps are on.
- Headlight switch turned to either on position: Light work (head and parking) but the fog light switch does nothing. Fogs will not turn on.


So, I go back and look some more, and decide to try something:


Thoughts?

I don't want my fogs on all the time, I just want to be able to run them with parking/low/high lights.

Thanks.

 

my fogs aren't on all the time. I can turn them on or off whenever i want with the switch. IMO this was such any easy mod just wire it up and flip the fog light switch when you want to.

 

Leonine, I'm so glad my instructions worked for you and now you're finally able to complete this modification successfully. Your pictures should also help others who want to do the same.

Just remember guys, Leonine's picturs illustrated only one part of the modification; powering the fog light switch. You still have to ground the red/white wire at the fog light relay as well.

wyy183, sorry, my bad. I was really tired and was probably confusing diagrams and/or manuals between the Helm and the online version. As you have already found out, there's not even a blue/black wire on the taillamp relay. and in fact, splicing into the taillamp relay at the blue wire will in fact give you the result you described (turn on fog switch, and park lights go on too) because coil does not have polarity, and current will travel both ways, causing th relay to turn on.

Anyways, the online (euro) version of the manual has the fog light switch getting power from the #9 fuse (10A) in their underdash fuse/relay box. That fuse controls dash lights, front parking lights, gauge lights, license plate lights, and taillights. The corresponding fuse in our underdash fuse/relay box is fuse # 22 (10A). Maybe we can get leonine to move his add-a-circuit from #24 slot to #22 to test this for you. In fact, this is a great place to use an add-a-circuit type fuse connector because it will have two fuses, one to maintain the original circuit, and one for your new added wire. Of course, the crude way of doing it would be just to shove the new wire into the 'out' side of the fuse slot, then put the fuse back in wedging in and securing the wire.

good luck

 

Sorry if i didnt make it clear. Yes the Fogs will work ANY time the key is on BUT i can still turn them on/.off with the switch. I wanted DRL's and rew ir ing the headlights for Canadian style operation is a big PITA( did it on my 97 Accord). Also, i had to cut the fog light feed to the cluster since the software interpreted the fog lights being on as a reason to dim the cluster. Only side effect here was not having a fog light indicator anymore. IF you powered the relay from parking lights, this step is not needed. NOW, what i basically did was reverse the current flow on the fog lamp relay circuit. Was easier for me since I also modified my low beams operation at the same time/place (column). So now the switch is a GROUND switching circuit rather than 12v feed switching circuit. Meant less extra wiring to run. ALso, these mods are on the coil side of the relay meaning only a few milliamps of current, since the foglights them selves have their own high-current fuse/circuit to feed them.