What did you do to your GE fit today?
![Lyon[Nightroad]'s Avatar](https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/customavatars/avatar31469_2.gif){kind=avatar}
c'mon now. Masking tape? I expect better from you Lyon. Duct tape is in order here. and that scoop sticking out the top. that needs to be bent down forwards and duct-taped to the hood so it doesn't flop around and so you can really "ram air" down into the intake.
Plus.. Folgers? Really? I mean REALLY? I understand that the new maxwell house plastic cans have an "integrated handle" so they won't work but couldn't you at least find some 8-O'Clock Bean?
~SB
PS. I LOVE IT! Next step, take two 2x4's and cut them to 1' in length, then use them as extensions to move your Fit's rear wing 1' up higher for better down-force.
You really need to start a thread called "Lyon's Ghetto shit thread"
Plus.. Folgers? Really? I mean REALLY? I understand that the new maxwell house plastic cans have an "integrated handle" so they won't work but couldn't you at least find some 8-O'Clock Bean?
~SB
PS. I LOVE IT! Next step, take two 2x4's and cut them to 1' in length, then use them as extensions to move your Fit's rear wing 1' up higher for better down-force.
You really need to start a thread called "Lyon's Ghetto shit thread"
You've inspired me, I think I'm going to take another crack at this project. I still have it laying in my failed project locker.
The trouble was that it actually reduced the manifold pressure. Iats were perfect and equal to ambient but manifold pressure was at 13.9, too low. I'm so excited! As soon as I'm off work again tonight at 11 I'm going to attack this again.
Dropped my fit today using Swift springs. First impressions mirror what I had heard about them... tighter connected feeling to the car, less roll, no bounce, close to stock drivability, slightly less drop rear than front.
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,462
From: Vermont
lol! I agree! Sometimes I think deep down inside I just want to be a hillbilly.
You've inspired me, I think I'm going to take another crack at this project. I still have it laying in my failed project locker.
The trouble was that it actually reduced the manifold pressure. Iats were perfect and equal to ambient but manifold pressure was at 13.9, too low. I'm so excited! As soon as I'm off work again tonight at 11 I'm going to attack this again.
You've inspired me, I think I'm going to take another crack at this project. I still have it laying in my failed project locker.
The trouble was that it actually reduced the manifold pressure. Iats were perfect and equal to ambient but manifold pressure was at 13.9, too low. I'm so excited! As soon as I'm off work again tonight at 11 I'm going to attack this again.
Keep us updated on this and if you need some inspiration for Ghetto auto work, let me know. I lived for 6 years where people literally raised their factory wings on 2x4's, rivited body kits from other cars to theirs, and drove around with "2 Low 4 a Fat Hoe" (yes... a gardening tool) on their vehicles.
~SB
PS. is that what you had in that picture above? a fat HOE? Did you live in North Central PA 9 years ago? :LOL
Been there, done that! Are you clairvoyant or do you just read my year old threads?
Sometimes the stupid stuff I do amazes even me. I later decided to put blue led fans in the 'air ducts' so that air was pushed through them even at idle, and it looked like I had ricer blue led foglights from the fans.
What happens when you have both foglights break and then your lexan homemade lenses melt? I was inspired by fitisbamf to get a little 'ram-air' going.
I think it's happy to see you. Blower to make sure sufficent airflow is making it in to the engine bay.
This is the tubing from the passenger side up to the intake.
The only angle you can see the 'tubing' from the outside with the hood closed.
Ziptied behind the bumper
Where it meets the air filter. Now we have cold air from the top,bottom, and side.
With the inside spray painted black it looks relatively clean for the rice that it is.
How the $10 3" dryer exhaust 'tubing' is routed.
Intake is cold to the touch even after spirited driving, but only a scanguage will let me test the intake temps to see if this is actually making a difference. Hard to believe it would since most people report intake temps close to ambient.
I think it's happy to see you. Blower to make sure sufficent airflow is making it in to the engine bay.
This is the tubing from the passenger side up to the intake.
The only angle you can see the 'tubing' from the outside with the hood closed.
Ziptied behind the bumper
Where it meets the air filter. Now we have cold air from the top,bottom, and side.
With the inside spray painted black it looks relatively clean for the rice that it is.
How the $10 3" dryer exhaust 'tubing' is routed.
Intake is cold to the touch even after spirited driving, but only a scanguage will let me test the intake temps to see if this is actually making a difference. Hard to believe it would since most people report intake temps close to ambient.
Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; Jul 30, 2011 at 10:53 PM.
I said I was excited to get home last night. I did even better than that:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ideo-pics.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ideo-pics.html
Actually, yes. I've discovered that clamping the map to about 12.5 psi cause the ecu to increase the timing ceiling to 24.5 DegreesBTDC. The stock ceiling at 14.3 psi is 22 DegreesBTDC.
When I say ceiling I merely mean the highest the engine will try to advance to. If you are knocking at 18DegreesBTDC, an increase in the ceiling is meaningless. But if you are running premium fuel those extra degrees can get you a hp or two, run leaner but still richer than stoich, and save gas.
I'm working out the formulas for the proper resistor and having thoughts about testing, and possibly selling a simple 'splice and dice' kit to GE8 owners so that an FIC would not be required for the simple benefits. The difficulty is that I need to still add back a little extra fuel with FIC for the decrease map reading. I need to find a balance between adding timing and subtracting fuel.
I said I was excited to get home last night. I did even better than that:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ideo-pics.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ideo-pics.html
Trailblazing Lyon!
I said I was excited to get home last night. I did even better than that:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ideo-pics.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ideo-pics.html
the mad scientist. 
So is the roof scoop (floor heater vent deflector Home Depot special) in the works next? Luv your creative overflow oozing everywhere bud!!! Keep it going!!!
New Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 15
From: SA, Tejas
Installed the floor mats (correction, I just dropped them into the car...not much to 'installing' these) and I have mounted the air deflector. I love the new look of the front-end with it on there....much sportier looking.
Sorry, I have no silly things I did, these are all real. :-D
Sorry, I have no silly things I did, these are all real. :-D
Right now I'm sitting on the tollway exit before the ipass exit waiting an extra minute so that the ipass toll system doesn't calculate my true 100+ mph average speed. All the people I pass are probably confused.
You know... I thought about using PVC pipe for my charge piping but ultimately used a fence post. The PVC lets out some nasty fumes at temperatures the charge pipe can reach. I may be part-redneck but I'm not crazy.
Upon further examination, WTF is going on with his turbo oil drain? it's at 90 degrees. And open downpipe right on the alternator...
With all that being said, if it works, AWESOME!
With all that being said, if it works, AWESOME!
Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; Aug 1, 2011 at 12:06 AM.
