Ah, 140~145 would sure feel nice on the straights but yeah i get what you are saying, a tuned engine that has good response and linear torque/hp curve is the best.

In the J's racing kit, do they change the rods as well? I'm interested because i tried to find replacement rods that are lighter and stronger than OEM a while back and could not seem to find some..

It's not like the stock ones are that bad, actually mines have seen 7+K rpm abuse lots of times (track) and are doing just fine.

 

You're right, making power NA with our L15a7 is really hard, turbo is the best option but its too late for me haha i'm too far down the road of NA tuning.

The turbo setup you suggested is a good one, it sure will be responsive. Damm, i wish they sell E85 where i live.

 

Actually they don't, but I have ordered a set from Bisi, they were on sale for like $450 versus the normal $860 and I grabbed his last set of stainless intake/Inconel exhaust valves. The stock rods are actually a nice design, pretty light and can take some abuse, but lighter is even better and Bisi states his rods are good for like 800+hp, something that this engine will never even fathom seeing.

 

Ah! You got a nice deal with those rods! Btw, are those really lighter than stock? You got me interested haha
So you got the valves too, i've had that installed on my car for more than a year now, works good. Did you get the titanium valve springs too? I was afraid of valve float so i got those, but daaam they are loud!

 

I didn't get the springs, didn't see them on the site at all. Though I thought the stock springs were not really needing to be changed out as they can go to 9000 before binding (thought I read this somewhere). Are they lighter, honestly I don't know, but I want to assume they are.

 

Finally got my Clarion NX602 installed and am very happy with it so far. It sounds nice now and also DVD's sound way better in my car then playing them in the house!

 

I had rough shifting in my 2012 base M/T again. First time the shifting got rough at 10K miles, dealer changed tranny fluid. Shifting was rough again between 2nd and 3rd, and dealer changed the fluid again (22.9K miles) under warranty. This time I took a fluid sample and sent it off to Blackstone Labs for testing--I'll post the test results when they come back.

Shifting is back to buttery smooth (but annoyingly delayed) normal.

 

Today on my Honda Jazz (GE6 November 2008) at 98,000 miles I totally changed the Gearbox oil (MTF3), the Coolant and bled the brakes and the clutch. I bought the fluids beforehand in preperation for when I had time and the weather suitable.
As I have removed left, right and center slash guards and had access to the auxiliary drive belt I drove into town (in the Civic) did some shopping and got a new belt which only took seconds to replace ( the best adjuster I have ever had for drive belt replacing). I believe most rubber based products like this should be replaced at 6 years and it was the ideal opportunity. I probably saved myself £300 unless someone could say how much it would have been. The hardest job was 'cracking' loose the engine block drain plug (19mm a/f) .
The next job to do when I have a day to spend on it is to do some bulkhead and wiper motor dis-assembly to get access to check/adjust tappets and replace the spark plugs.

 

 

WHOA!!! More pictures please!!!!!

 

I took my Fit along with 2 buddies from work on 5 laps on Barber Motorsports Park racetrack today. It was a "parade lap" following a pace car along with about 20 other cars, so I couldn't really open it up. But, we were going fast enough to make the tires sing a little in the corners. I got up to about 70mph in the straight. It was pretty awesome!

-Dustin

 

Today I changed the Iridium spark plugs and checked the tappet clearances on the 98,000+ miles used Jazz 1.4EX. The plugs were nicely coloured and the tappet clearances where okay with no adjustments needed. I feel confident now as I was worried that the clearances might be tight. The engine light stayed on for 3 starts but has now cleared. Maybe tomorrow, if it is not raining, I can reassemble the aquarium/bulkhead, wiper motor, wipers and the trim. While I had so much access to it I put some copper slip onto the exhaust clamps and threads. Would you believe that today of all days the other car, Civic 1.6EX, got a large torx caphead screw straight through the Front tyre in Leicester . Luckily where I pulled up safely was exactly outside a Kwik-fit on the opposite side of the road. I did not know this until I was trying to describe where the car was to the RAC, as I looked around for some sort of landmark building I said opposite Kwikfit, at which point I said to forget it for now. I used the supplied Honda emergency compressor to pump it up and then dive across the road and into the workshop. Very lucky.
So these long life plugs look good for 100,000 miles.
The tappets too safe for 100,000 miles too. The cam chain is a tiny duplex looking thing. I took photos too but do not know how to load and they are too big. I cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner. That was the dirtiest part I came across, black carbon looking residue.
My tip for anyone doing it is not to do it outside if rain is forecast as once the aquarium / bulkhead trim and wiper motor assembly is removed rain water will drop straight onto or into the engine or plug holes....

 

Did some test fitting of my 15" CE28s, they are +43, but the spokes were just touching the caliper, so added the 10mm H&R spacers and that gives plenty of spoke clearance.




Then tonight was called by Seino to pick up a couple boxes...




These things are nice and light, 16x7" and just 4.9kg (10.8lbs). Now deciding to go with A050s or just go with AD08Rs, probably A050s as I bought these specifically to use on circuit. When the bronze CE28s come in, they'll probably get AD08Rs.

Also put on my winter tires and wheels. Picked up TRM Cs with Bridgestone Blizzaks. The spokes are too fat on the wheels, even though 16x7+42, needed to use the 10mm spacer to clear the caliper. No pics of those installed.

 

^
That is a super tight fit between the caliper and wheel. I might even expect some rubbing if the metal starts expanding to do super heated brakes.

 

To be fair it's very hard to tell how much space there is from that picture. Track cars often have very low wheel/caliper clearances.

 

Did IK22 plug swap today at 108k miles.

To those of you that do the job without removing the cowl, my hat is off to you, I do not have the patience or a back strong enough to work like that, but I could see how it could be done.

Had a scare on the #4 when putting the plug in, thought I cross-threaded it somehow. Turned out to be a manufacturing defect on the plug thread which I had to clean up. I expected better from you Denso

Only broke one clip taking the cowl off

 

On right hand drive, without removing the cowl, I don't see how it could be done because of all the shit in the way because opposite side of car. I mean if you have baby arms and hands, maybe you could squeeze in there, but it makes no sense to even try it.

 

Oh that's right huh, you've got the BMC and all that in the way!

Well you're not missing much anyway, would have probably taken me the same amount of time fumbling around blind than it did to remove and replace the cowl, it's really not a huge deal.

 

I re-used an old Umnitza BMW LED ring kit I had from my old BMW 330i.

 

Got my Blackstone report back--nothing abnormal about the levels of various chemical/metal compounds in the transmission fluid. On the one hand it's reassuring that the tranny isn't imploding, but why does it keep becoming difficult to shift? Anybody else experiencing balky shifting with the M/T?