DIY lower your GE8 Fit
MPG increase?
Hmm.. so other than handling better and looking cooler, I'm actually wondering about lowering my '10 Fit for less drag. Does that make sense? Anyone lowered their car and noticed better mpg?
MPG increase?
Hmm.. so other than handling better and looking cooler, I'm actually wondering about lowering my '10 Fit for less drag. Does that make sense? Anyone lowered their car and noticed better mpg?
Hmm.. so other than handling better and looking cooler, I'm actually wondering about lowering my '10 Fit for less drag. Does that make sense? Anyone lowered their car and noticed better mpg?
Quality tires will reduce MPG a bit for sure, like Yokohama DB or Michelin Energy.
It makes perfect sense.I just lowered my 12 sport with Swift springs and Progress RSB.
It is a totally different car and handles worlds better then stock.I also moved to a 205/50/16 Kuhmo Ecsta 4X tire.
The body roll is gone and I can notice less drag and yes my mpg improved by about 2mpg.
It could be the tires but I think it's a combination of all the above.
It is a totally different car and handles worlds better then stock.I also moved to a 205/50/16 Kuhmo Ecsta 4X tire.
The body roll is gone and I can notice less drag and yes my mpg improved by about 2mpg.
It could be the tires but I think it's a combination of all the above.
Selling my Tanabe DF210 springs now that I'm on coilovers. Priced to sell at $100. Thread here: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/sale...g-springs.html.
Last edited by Socialvegetable; Jul 19, 2012 at 02:13 PM.
also BIG BIG note:
make sure upon removing the strut don't let
the axle come out to far. you will regret it dearly.
make sure you use bungy cords and or a jack to hold the
lower control arm up so axles don't come out to far.
also so people know. here are the torque settings for some
bolts for when putting back together.
the strut bolt holding the spring on. 65 ft.lbs.
the top strut bolt used to hold the strut on the car. 33 ft.lbs.
the two lower strut bolts 65 ft.lbs.

make sure upon removing the strut don't let
the axle come out to far. you will regret it dearly.

make sure you use bungy cords and or a jack to hold the
lower control arm up so axles don't come out to far.
also so people know. here are the torque settings for some
bolts for when putting back together.
the strut bolt holding the spring on. 65 ft.lbs.
the top strut bolt used to hold the strut on the car. 33 ft.lbs.
the two lower strut bolts 65 ft.lbs.
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,929
From: Palm Coast FLA
and had new boot ring installed.
My buddy’s dad fixed it for me my axel was just off and he had to pop something back into place. He’s a miracle worker and makes cars from nothing but scraps. He just wiggles it around and poof it was fixed!
Very helpful thread indeed! But i dont have the guts to DIY coz it might end up as DESTROY it yourself lol
By the way, may i know the reason why you need to cut the bump stops in half? I got a set of espelir springs ready to be installed anytime soon. Thanks!
By the way, may i know the reason why you need to cut the bump stops in half? I got a set of espelir springs ready to be installed anytime soon. Thanks!
On Swifts you do not need to cut the bump stops. Your local mechanic can install the springs in an hour or two.
niko and other folks, thanks for the DIY and tips. i did the swifts last friday and thanks for the info it only took me like 1.5hrs to do all 4.
on the front tower i used a ratchet combination wrench with a flex head (pivoting head) through the service hole. i did not remove the cowl and wiper assembly. the only 'challenge' was getting the nut back onto the tower on the driver side.
i ended up using masking tape to tape the nut onto my open side of the wrench, placed nut onto the tower shaft and thread it in with that 1/5 turn i could get through the service hole, then pull the wrench away from the nut and tape and used my hand to turn slowly until i had some resistance. then threaded the rest of the way using the ratchet.
other then that, ive done the GD in the past so it was the same. and i did not cut the bumpstops on my setup. car runs absolutely better than stock and i am very happy i did this.
thanks again!
on the front tower i used a ratchet combination wrench with a flex head (pivoting head) through the service hole. i did not remove the cowl and wiper assembly. the only 'challenge' was getting the nut back onto the tower on the driver side.
i ended up using masking tape to tape the nut onto my open side of the wrench, placed nut onto the tower shaft and thread it in with that 1/5 turn i could get through the service hole, then pull the wrench away from the nut and tape and used my hand to turn slowly until i had some resistance. then threaded the rest of the way using the ratchet.
other then that, ive done the GD in the past so it was the same. and i did not cut the bumpstops on my setup. car runs absolutely better than stock and i am very happy i did this.

thanks again!
Thanks, and nice write up. I too lowered my fit with RSR Ti2000 (2 inch drop). It was too low for me to DD my fit with my wheel set up. I switched to tein springs. So I got some almost new RSR TI2000 springs I'm considering selling
Im not saying this is a bad idea but just a word of caution when doing so. I stripped the threads on one of my struts using this method. Granted spliting the collar was more difficult, it wasnt nearly as time consuming as looking around for a thread chaser to fix the messed up side/buying a new strut. I think this was the situation on the second quote. I tried to use an allen key and a wrench to fix the threads with the nut and no dice. Thread chaser/die is a must if you go wrong with this methods.
Hey Nick,
I just noticed a nice correction can be made here.
The rear shock collars, you do not have to pry them open to get to the rear bump stops. Just put the allen wrench in the shock end, clamp a vice grip on the collar. Then apply a little bit of pull up pressure while turning the vice grip counter clock wise. They simply unscrew right off.
I have done it twice this way. Back early summer with springs/cutting bump stop and a month ago when I installed air shocks. Sorry I did not mention this sooner.
Sorry if someone else caught this. I didn't go back and read the 10 pages of posts.
Mike
I just noticed a nice correction can be made here.
The rear shock collars, you do not have to pry them open to get to the rear bump stops. Just put the allen wrench in the shock end, clamp a vice grip on the collar. Then apply a little bit of pull up pressure while turning the vice grip counter clock wise. They simply unscrew right off.
I have done it twice this way. Back early summer with springs/cutting bump stop and a month ago when I installed air shocks. Sorry I did not mention this sooner.
Sorry if someone else caught this. I didn't go back and read the 10 pages of posts.
Mike
With the rears, i used an allen bit, and vice grips to get the collars off the strut, in order to access the bump stops.. Something must have happened to the threads, because when putting the nut back on the strut, i had to use an allen bit/ratchet, and an open end wrench, as a regular socket was just spinning the shaft, i don't know why.
I am currently on Dropzone Lowering springs advertised as a 1.8 front and 1.5 rear inch drop.
I did NOT cut the bumpstops.
I am having zero bumpstop slapping going on.
I recommend to everyone who lowers to loosen, shake, and retighten the rear lower shock bolt. The bushing WILL make noise and wear out much faster if you do not do this every few hundred miles till the springs are completely settled
I did NOT cut the bumpstops.
I am having zero bumpstop slapping going on.
I recommend to everyone who lowers to loosen, shake, and retighten the rear lower shock bolt. The bushing WILL make noise and wear out much faster if you do not do this every few hundred miles till the springs are completely settled
one very important thing not to forget.
make sure you cut these off.
one on the left is for the fronts
the one on the right is for the rears.

bump stops
pain in the ARSE
well now we have come to a point where something is missing.
ahh here it goes.

Drool
i cleaned up the drool from the ground and opened the box
and there they were 4 brothers and sisters.

moving on now that we have everything apart we can compare.
stock vs. lowered.

BIG difference
can't wait anymore
this is taking to long.
make sure you cut these off.
one on the left is for the fronts
the one on the right is for the rears.

bump stops

pain in the ARSE
well now we have come to a point where something is missing.
ahh here it goes.

Drool
i cleaned up the drool from the ground and opened the box

and there they were 4 brothers and sisters.

moving on now that we have everything apart we can compare.
stock vs. lowered.

BIG difference
can't wait anymore
this is taking to long.

how about if you forgot to cut the bump stops, can you still insert the spring or if what is the effect in the car?
Thanks for this write up. I lowered my fit yesterday. It was a easy install. Axle popped out but was able to put it back in with no problem. I didnt take the cowl off. I used a rachet box end wrench to take off the 17mm bolt.
Great thread, installed Swift springs today. Is it normal some creaking up front? I drove it around the block and the front was making noises. Going to take it in tomorrow to get the alignment done but the noises made me uneasy.



