noises will be from loose things. Go ahead and double check everything out.

Make sure everything is lined up and seated correctly where necessary.

I have zero noises on my spring install.

 

i have no creaking from my swifts on my '12. i installed them last august, been through salty winter. no issue.

 

Tightening everything took care of it. Thanks!! One of my first car projects, been building up carbon race bicycles for a while. My caution against over torquing doesn't seem to carry over well.

 

sounds good. yah, quite different from carbon fiber work.

 

Great DIY. I installed my Tein S Tech's last night with out a hitch.

 

I had issues with the passenger front but handled in a decent amount of time. Went to drivers front and had the control arm ready for the axle and it still popped out. it is really kickin my butt, any tips on shoving it back in there? i have twisted, pushed, turned, etc... the hub doesnt allow me to get the top bolt into the strut. when i turn the axle slow i can get to a locking point if i keep pressure inwards, but as soon as i let pressure off it rotates with ease.

 

After reading a few posts in this thread, I expected to be in for the hardest maintenance action of my life. Coilovers installed on all 4 corners took less than 1.5 hours and didn't even need spring compressors to take apart the front struts.

For anyone thinking about doing the install after reading everyone freaking out about it: stop and breath, take two seconds to actually think about what needs to be done and then do it.

 

call AAA and tow it to the shop? i jest of course! =)

 

Overall it is easy just the damn axle popped out and won't go back in. (Popped out at joint, not transmission)

 

Hello,

I have a few questions before installing my DF210 on my 2011 Fit Sport. After reading soo many post I still can't find the answer to what I am looking for. I plan on installing my DF210 on my car in a few weeks but my main concern is

1. Will I have a problem if I cut the bump stop when switching back to OEM rims for the winter time. I will only be putting on rims for the spring/summer mainly.
2. Anyone that have the same springs I have, how much did you end up cutting for the front and back bump stops? does it have to be all cut with the same measurements? because the DF210 is a 1.3 drop in the front and 1.8 in the back so I wasn't sure on if I should be cutting a specific amount for the front and back.
3. Should I leave it alone due to my current rim/tire size and just not cut it.

Current rim/tire size: 17x7 40 offset 205/45/17.
Car Model: 2011 Fit Sport

Thank You.
Rster85

 

DO NOT CUT THE BUMPSTOP

I dont care what anyone on here posts, do NOT cut your bumpstop.

That small piece of rubber prevents the strut rod from bottoming out. 3-4 inches of rubber WILL compress with the weight of the vehicle, and that thickness prevents the bottom of the rod from smacking and destroying the strut/shocks ability to function

My springs are 1.8 front drop and 1.5 rear drop. I almost NEVER hit the bumpstop

We have crappy roads around Fort Hood, TX. Your best bet is to drive safely and dont speed over crappy roads and you will be fine.

EDIT If you are truely worried about the suspension, grab a set of KYB GR2 struts and shocks. The total will be between 4-500 bucks, but KYB does stiffen the setup up to better deal with aftermarket springs. It is not a lot stiffer, but it will outlast factory suspension at lowered stages

 

I cut the fronts only with T1R springs and the ride is good so far, I am hoping to make the struts last til koni's come out.

 

Interesting, when I did mine I did not remove the cowling I did the job though that access hole and a combo gearwrench. Also I did not use a spring compressor, I used my electric impact and held the upper mount down by hand it's not under a lot of tension. Yea some might call me crazy but I've down a few cars that way. Ill post up a video how its done when my buddy gets his setup.

 

I did the same with the access hole but no impacts were available for the install. I have used a hand wrench and shot the springystrut nut into a bunch of old rags/blanket before but on the older hondas it was sketchy at best. I did notice there wasnt much tension on the fits springs. you're braver then me though I used compressors.

 

I've done 3 cars without a compressor. My 05 sentra SE-R, a 91 S13 240sx and my fit. The way to see if its feasible is if you can press down enough by hand by end of shaft thread by hand to see if you can get away without a compressor. There are 2 cars I didn't dare to try because they are under way too much tension was 350Z or my 300ZX.

 

The axle pop out thing is making me hesitant to install my df210 on my 2013 base model. Anybody figure out how to stop this from happening?

 

Yes. Read the thread from the begining. You have to tie it up with bungy cord.

 

Yes I did see that, but it seems that some were still having issues. Guess ill know when I do it.

 

Not if you tie it up tight so that the rotor and bits don't drop when you take off the top. Mine was on a hoist and we put a tall jack under the rotor to hold it up.

Also on the rear make sure to disconnect the ABS or it will break when the axle drops - Ask me how I know - We did not but my friendly Honda dealer replaced it under wty.

 

Anyone that installed tanabe df210 springs for their ge8. Is there a specific way to install them. I'm not sure which should be top or bottom when installing the springs. The tanabe logo facing upside down or right side up? This is for both front and rears.

Thank you!